Wet sanding water spots off!

[GSKR]

From what I'm gathering here is that this is out of your league to tackle this job,I would abort this opportunity to save your friendship,cause the first mistake you make will cause that relationship to be over.Take the car to a more seasoned detailer and let him pay.Ive seen this scenario over and over again it's not worth it.He will appreciate your interest of trying to help him out.

[Setec Astronomy]

You're dead on correct mike,I stated that it's not a professional way to do it

I'm not sure that's what Mike said, I would argue that an acid decon IS a professional way to remove water spots, hence his recommendation of Optimum MDR. There are other acid decon products including others sold here like the Finish Kare Decon Step 2, CarPro Spotless, Duragloss Water Spot Remover, and probably some others.

I think Mike's point was, #1, although you are a professional detailer, the members and non-members who might read this thread are a cross-section of pros, weekend warriors, hobbyists, google searchers, etc., who have varying skill, experience, and common-sense levels, and that suggesting the use of an acid decon product, especially if it's one with hydrofluoric (HF) or ammonium bifluoride (ABF) content, should be accompanied by sufficient warnings about the hazards and protective gear required to do this.

Of course, as Mike noted, and you affirmed, acid techniques will be ineffective if the water spots have already etched in.

[Mike Phillips]

You're dead on correct mike,I stated that it's not a professional way to do it,if it were my car with the proper gloves and precautions taken,and taping up trim a majority of the time it works 100 percent if it's topical water spots.

And those are the keyS to using hydrofluoric acid to "try" to remove topical water spots. The acid breaks the bond of the deposit (whatever it is), so it can be wiped away.

I touch on this topic and how it works after speaking with a PhD Organic chemist in this article,

Using Vinegar to remove water spots

If it's etched into paint that's a whole different level,

And that's what I was trying to share with the OP and everyone that will read this thread into the future. That is if the the water spots, which are either going to be a ring or a crater, are IN the paint not ON the paint then wiping a chemical over the surface isn't going to remove the ring or the crater only abrading the surface to level it will make the rings and/or craters visually and physically disappear.

And again... in my how-to book and in the real world I tell people all the time that Type II Water Spots are the WORST type of defect to have to deal with. I've been answering this question in the forum world since 1994 and it's never any fun to tell the owner of a car with these types of water spots how much work it is to remove them.

That's why I also state that if the problem is caused by a WATER SPRINKLER and the owner of the car has no choice but to park by the water sprinkler then removing the water spots is for nothing because it's just going to happen again.

I'm just implying that he should just try it rather than sanding and spending hours buffing and reducing the risk for a potential problem.

I know your intentions are good Jeff and that's why I carefully typed out my first reply to address every possible scenario.

I don't recommend to people to wetsand the factory paint on their car to remove any type of defect and especially if the person does not already have the proper tools, skills and experience because it's a lot harder to do than most people understand.

Again... he asked for information on the wetsanding topic and answering people's questions is one of my job duties so I answered him but also offered other options less risky and less involved than sanding.

congrats to you on your new adventure mike you deserve that opportunity.

Thanks Jeff...

It's a new adventure and a lot of work and responsibility and like you've I've been detailing cars all my life and also writing articles showing people how to detail cars most of my life.

When a person write an article, makes a video or writes a book they are then presenting their "opinion" to the public at large for acceptance and also peer review. That's a huge responsibility and I never shy away from it but I'm also very careful in what I say and how I say it.


I also include health safety precautions when they apply. I'm missing my leg and my sister is blind so I know what it's like to go through life with less than 100 percent of what most people have to work with and a few people may even take for granted.

[Setec Astronomy]

Sorry for the short yesterday.
I started off using chemical guys heavy remover which is orange. Next I compound the car using 3-D AAT compound with a black 6 inch wool pad on a porter cable.
I did not try at the rotary yet, I do have one that I use use a while ago just some cheap one from Harbor freight I do know how to use them though as I did with a Dewalt when I worked at a dealership here in San Diego . Is there a specific wool pad that you would recommend that I use? I only have one and it's a hook and loop back. Also stating that it is not the best as far as quality I know that you said you used 1000 RPM would you recommend that I use maybe three or four on this one ?
Thank you for everything that you stated though.

I did try a very small spot on the hood on one of the larger sizes of the spots I hit it by hand with 2500 semi lightly and that didn't really remove it maybe I just didn't do it hard enough with the 2500 but assuming how course that grit is I would have thought it would have removed it.

Sorry reediting this when I stated that you said that you used 1000 that was on the full sanding of a car that you did that's why said 1000

I don't think a PC, even an XP, has the grunt to really do any work with a 6" wool pad. You would want to put that pad on your rotary.

When you did your test spot with the 2500 grit paper, did you block it? (just curious)

I think you are getting some good advice to use 5000 grit trizact instead of 3000 grit...or better yet...don't do it. That's an expensive car, it's not yours, etc. etc.

If your friend is resigned to a repaint already and you are given the green light to try and save it first, then follow the recommendations that Mike Phillips gave you some posts ago. As Mike has repeatedly stated, sanding factory paint on a new car is fraught with risk.

[Mike Phillips]

Next I compound the car using 3-D AAT compound with a black 6 inch wool pad on a porter cable.

Wool pads on PCs don't do much... (just for the record)

I did try a very small spot on the hood on one of the larger sizes of the spots I hit it by hand with 2500 semi lightly and that didn't really remove it maybe I just didn't do it hard enough with the 2500 but assuming how course that grit is I would have thought it would have removed it.

I've only used Nikken brand #2500 sandpaper it's in my opinion it's very safe unless you're pressing as hard as a Gorilla.

Sorry reediting this when I stated that you said that you used 1000 that was on the full sanding of a car that you did that's why said 1000

Here's the deal... clearcoat paints are hard and thin, (generally speaking.


Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips

Clearcoats are Scratch-Sensitive


The factory sprayed clear layer of paint on most new cars averages around 2 mils. That's thinner than the average post-it note.





The next time you see a post-it note... feel it between your fingers... this is usually all it takes to drive home the point as to how thin the paint is on your beautiful, shiny car.





Considering the car and the problem this is a project I would probably walk away from on nice terms unless you get a signed form from him releasing you from any liability if you burn through the clear.

Remember...

1. Sanding removes paint
2. Compounding removes paint
3. Polishing removes paint

And a factory clearcoat finish is not very thick.


Good discussion guys...

[TrueReflection]

Sweet thanks guys. I did tell him to go to a body shop but was just wondering in the instance he does and I can get a crack at it.

[Billy Baldone]

I have had very good success with deep water spots, using a Flex, a wool pad, and some 105.

[RFrommann]

I used HD speed with a griots microfiber cut pad with my griots da. Orange lc pad wasn't quite enough, I should've went right get to my rotary though.

[Crispy]

Am l wrong or does rain contain no minerals? Why etching if from rain? Just asking.