Diminishing Abrasives

[Audios S6]

Ultimate compound and m205 are a great choice for beginners.

You'll know when you are done by doing a test spot and checking your work; then replicating the process and checking your work on the whole car. No shortcut there, although experience helps and with a keen eye, you can spot swirls through a light compound film.

As for when the polishing cycle is done, that's less of an issue with SMAT. If the product has dried completely, you can mist it with water, mineral oil or other dedicated pad priming products to extend the cycle. If you see the product has gone clear or has flashed, then it's done or time to mist.

M205 doesn't contain dedicated fillers, but it is rich in oils and can mask defects, so consider an IPA wipe down to check you work.

[cardaddy]

Ultimate compound and m205 are a great choice for beginners.

You'll know when you are done by doing a test spot and checking your work; then replicating the process and checking your work on the whole car. No shortcut there, although experience helps and with a keen eye, you can spot swirls through a light compound film.

As for when the polishing cycle is done, that's less of an issue with SMAT. If the product has dried completely, you can mist it with water, mineral oil or other dedicated pad priming products to extend the cycle. If you see the product has gone clear or has flashed, then it's done or time to mist.

M205 doesn't contain dedicated fillers, but it is rich in oils and can mask defects, so consider an IPA wipe down to check you work.

THIS!!!

For quicker correction, not having to *wait* for the product to break down, and consistent - repeatable - correction "Section-to-Section" SMAT products are hard to beat.

The *KEY* is to keep working WET. If you work the product till it dries.... you've worked it too long. With SMAT products you work the section 4 (maybe 5) passes and wipe it down. Look for a wet buffer trail behind your pad as you go. If you need more correction you have a few options; 1: reapply (current) product to the (current) pad and do 4~5 more passes, 2: switch to a heavier cut pad with the current product, or 3: switch to a heavier cut product with your current pad.

I agree that M105 is something that you should stay away from if you've not used it before. Not that you can't use it, not at all... just that you need to be prepared for how best to utilize it within the parameters you'll be facing that day. If you've properly primed your pad you can use M105 and do 2~3 passes MAX! Whatever you do... DO NOT LET IT DRY! If it does, it'll be like cement and you'll curse yourself trying to get it off. Better yet (as was stated previously) you can put more product on and 'rewet' the area, spritz it with distilled water, or perhaps a bit of mineral oil (baby oil will do).

Easier yet would be to get D300 as a heavier cut product, Ultimate Compound, M205, and Ultimate Polish (in that order from most to least cut). If you really want maximum cut, get M101 as it's a LOT easier to work with than M105.

Basically, SMAT products whether they are compounds or polishes should be worked CLEAN. Have a clean surface, clean pad, and work each section clean. Don't overwork the product as the particles will actually get larger the longer you work them. Instead, work each section (as I've said) 3~4 times then wipe own and inspect your progress. Also you want to MAKE SURE and "clean on the fly" after each section pass, (much more critical when compounding than polishing, but needed with both processes).

OTOH, Menzerna products are truly something that everyone needs at least two, if not a few of. I'd say FG400 to cut with and SF4000 to finish and you'll be doing good.

The difference between working with SMAT and DAT is that with the latter you'll HAVE to work each section 7~10 times to get the product to work completely through it's working cycle. So in a way, SMAT is actually faster! Take 4~5 passes to compound then wipe, then 5~6 to polish and it's done. Yet DAT can (as has also been said in this thread) finish down better (well easier to finish better with some paints for sure).

Here is an excellent thread from Mike@Dedicated Perfection on using Menzerna products.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...brid-pads.html

Everything has a learning curve, just be prepared when you start. Don't get ahead of yourself, and TAKE NOTES.

Do your testing for how much correction you want to get when doing the compounding stage. If you're looking for 50%, 70%, 90% correction THIS IS THE TIME where you will get a 'feel' for how that is going to happen. Do NOT finish them all down right away, just work on the compounding stage.

Tape the hood off into say 6 areas. Do 3, something like: white pad - speed 5 - UC - 4 passes - medium arm pressure - medium arm speed. Then orange pad - speed 5 - UC - 4 passes - medium arm pressure - medium arm speed. Then say, orange pad - speed 5.5 - 4 passes - heavy pressure - medium speed. So on and so on. The trick (in the beginning) is to only do the same amount of passes, just changing up your compounding product, or your pad, or your machine (not arm) speed. Because you WANT TO KNOW what just that amount of passes will do on JUST THAT PAINT. You can always go back and do more passes to get more correction after cleaning your pad and applying more product! Remember... much easier to go back and do more than to try and add paint after you've removed too much!

Once you get the compounding done where you like it, THEN you start polishing. Take the next 3 spots, compound them all the same (using the process you worked out in the first spots you did) then experiment on how the polishing process works for you to get the optimal results you're looking for at the time.

Remember TAKE NOTES!
Once you have your 'method' down then you'll know that that paint, on that vehicle, with that amount of swirls... needs... for THAT amount of correction.

[Dman81]

Thanks for your help guys!!

And Cardaddy.. BIG THANKS!!!.... what you said makes perfect sense. I will follow that advice to the letter.

one last question though... what's the difference between ultimate polish and M205? Should I use Ultimate polish instead of the M205?

Thanks again guys.

[cardaddy]

Thanks for your help guys!!

And Cardaddy.. BIG THANKS!!!.... what you said makes perfect sense. I will follow that advice to the letter.

one last question though... what's the difference between ultimate polish and M205? Should I use Ultimate polish instead of the M205?

Thanks again guys.

Both UC and UP are direct derivatives (little brother and sister so to speak) of 105 and 205. Although they provide a bit less cut (respectively), but MUCH longer working time(s).

So on the cut scale you'd have 105, UC, 205, UP (most to least).

Were I you, starting out, and trying to figure out what works for me. I'd go with one technology and as many different cut(s) as possible and stick with it till I had it down. While different products have various cut levels, the way they work is the same. Being as you may indeed need some heavy cut, that's why I mentioned D300 as it's a REALLY good compound and had decent working time. Not as much cut as 101/105 but it'll correct like crazy, (and with a lighter cut pad can even finish down better than you'd think). If you really feel like you want 105, I'd suggest mixing it with either UC or even D300. (You can mix it anywhere from 50/50 to even priming your pad with say UC then using the 3~4 pea sized drops of 105 to work a section.) I'd still get 101 though because it IS that much easier to work with, (which it should be for the price difference... and well worth the price I might add).

I actually tried back in late 2012 to go to nothing but SMAT based products. After coming up in the 70's when everything was DAT I figured I'd just go with this 'new fangled' stuff (although SMAT has been out for a LONG time) and move to the next century and never look back. Well that and I'm a Meguiar's fan in the worst kind of way. (Don't even have a Menzerna banner in my garage... to compete with my Meguiar's banner....... which should make Barry Meguiar happy enough.)

Problem is... it's impossible not to have Menzerna products within arms reach.

[dlc95]

You could also try m100. Man, that stuff is really easy to work with, and does a really nice job. I could probably replace m105 with it, and never look back. In usability it reminds me of Ultimate Compound.

[Buckskincolt]

Here is a great article by Mike P on the SMAT products.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-products.html Very good read!

[cardaddy]

You could also try m100. Man, that stuff is really easy to work with, and does a really nice job. I could probably replace m105 with it, and never look back. In usability it reminds me of Ultimate Compound.

GOOD CALL Don! :thumbup:

I didn't mention M100 but it's become one of the most popular compounds as of late for sure.

[sayroger]

I have had great luck using Optimum Hyper Polish Spray New Formula and Hyper Compound it has both and smat and Diminishing Abrasives. It remove easily it wont dry on the the clear coat if you are outside in the heat. You dont have to spritz with water to keep the polish active. A little goes a long way, it turns pads light blue sometimes hard to get out. Finishes well do dusting.




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[conman1395]

I have had great luck using Optimum Hyper Polish Spray New Formula and Hyper Compound it has both and smat and Diminishing Abrasives. It remove easily it wont dry on the the clear coat if you are outside in the heat. You dont have to spritz with water to keep the polish active. A little goes a long way, it turns pads light blue sometimes hard to get out. Finishes well do dusting.




.

I was using that the past couple days at work. I really like the Hyper abrasives with microfiber. The only issue I have is they're WAY too expensive and you waste a lot using it as a spray. I prefer Hyper Compound more than Hyper Polish - there are cheaper, better alternatives to Hyper Polish available (like HD polish!).

I didn't know they had both abrasive technologies.

[sayroger]

I was using that the past couple days at work. I really like the Hyper abrasives with microfiber. The only issue I have is they're WAY too expensive and you waste a lot using it as a spray. I prefer Hyper Compound more than Hyper Polish - there are cheaper, better alternatives to Hyper Polish available (like HD polish!).

I didn't know they had both abrasive technologies.

Thanks i will try it next, need to reorder polish next week.