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  1. #1
    Super Member Mantilgh's Avatar
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    Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    Has anyone tried something like Scholl's S0 Extreme Cut, or the other "extreme", "super", "heavy" cut compounds for headlight restorations like Art mentions in this thread?

    http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ing-discs.html

    Basically using a heavy cut compound to reduce the need for the expensive high grit sanding disks.

    Scholl Concepts S0 Extreme Cut Matting Compound 1 kg

    Scholl Concepts Asia

    Not quite sure what grit it's supposed to remove. I believe their claim is "liquid sandpaper" equaling 1000 grit. Or at least that's what I'm getting from it.

    There are others compounding products that claim to remove down to 600 grit. If these work well, I believe they would be a cheaper alternative to the expensive higher grit sanding disks.

    Although some purist may say you are not truly leveling, or providing true optical clarity with this process. Not sure if I saw this statement here or on another site, but some claim you have to level by sanding up through say 3000 grit to get the best clarity.

  2. #2
    Newbie Member Chex's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    the most aggressive compound I've ever used is Presta Gel Coat Compound. It does work pretty well, but I wouldn't say it replaces sanding.

    When doing headlights you have to consider that there is a clear film that protects them so being too aggressive will make that film fail prematurely.

    Sanding gives you more control of how much material you're removing, and depending on how severe the defect is, the sandpaper you'll start with (2000, 1500, 1200 or more aggressive).

    Finishing with 3000 or 5000 grit makes removing the sanding marks an easy task compared to buffing out deeper marks like 1500 grit to put an example.


    If the headlights are not that bad, you can polish them without using sandpaper as your first step, but if the defect is not successfully removed, then you could consider using sandpaper first.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Super Member Mantilgh's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    Yeh, most of the really aggressive compounds I saw were for gel coats and may not be used much by members here unless they work much on such.

    I do not do this for living, but have been contemplating as a side job here and there for a little extra cash.

    I was thinking about using it on the really oxidized ones that you know the coating is already gone. I have read that some have to get fairly aggressive with some of these. Some using 600, others down to 300 grit.

    My thought was, either start with 600 or, 800 and then go to a heavy gel coat style compound, lighter compound, polish, then coating.

    Or, maybe just start with the gel coat compound if the condition is bad, but not terrible.

    Thus eliminating the need for the need for the expensive high grit sanding/polishing disks.

    Not that I don't like these disks. I actually think they are amazing and love the uniform finish they produce, but the price is bit much IMO.

    Just something I've been thinking about and wanted others input

  4. #4
    Super Member CarolinasFinestDetailing's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    It really depends on the headlight honestly and how oxidized they are. And some respond better to just compounding than others whereas some just have to be sanded first.
    Carolina`s Finest Detailing - Charlotte areas preferred CQuartz Finest Reserve & GTECHNIQ Crystal Serum Ultra coating center. STEK/Suntek PPF
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  5. #5
    Super Member WAXOFF's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    I would be more worried about the plastic burning from the compound and heat. You would need to get some serious rpm to get that grit working where as I see the guys in my car dealer using water with the small sanding discs with an air grinder.
    2011 Compass Latitude Bright Silver/ 2017 Nissan Rogue SV AWD Premium Glacier White
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  6. #6
    Regular Member FFguy808's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    For regular plastic headlights, sometimes I just skip damp sanding and use CarPro Ceriglass with cutting pad..it's agressive enough to remove damage clear coat on the headlights. Then I follow it with M205 to remove light scratches that Ceriglass leaves behind..

  7. #7
    Super Member Mantilgh's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    Good point about the heat, would probably be similar problem with machine dry sanding with the lower grits too?

    I did try some damp sanding with my 3" backer in a air powered die grinder. An uncontrollable 10,000 rpm, it was basically full throttle or nothing. A bit to much for me. I think 3" may have been to large for for mine, all rpm, no torque.

  8. #8
    Super Member Mantilgh's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    Thanks of the info on CarPro Ceriglass. I will check it out.

  9. #9
    Super Member KMdef9's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    Art also mentions in that thread that that process isn't recommended.

    If the 3000 disc are too expensive, just do it by hand with 3k. The lighter grits always go faster/easier when you have done a heavier grit step previously IME.

    Depending on the situation, you could get away with 1000-3000-compound. But, since every situation is different, unique steps/methods will apply to each one.

    You might be spending more time compounding out the 1000 versus doing the 3000 then compounding. If if time is no concern, go for it. Just be careful of the heat generated.

  10. #10
    Super Member Mantilgh's Avatar
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    Re: Using Extreme, Super, Heavy cut compounds for Headlighs?

    Thank you for the input KMdef9

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    The lighter grits always go faster/easier when you have done a heavier grit step previously IME.
    I do not have to much experience doing this but, this seems the opposite from what I have noticed. To me, it seems like it takes an exponentially longer time to remove the previous grit scratches.

    Maybe it was more noticeable when the grits go up by 500 than it was with lower grits that go up by 200.

    My method, in the end, was to sand 90deg to the last grit till I could no longer see them and then go over it again to be sure.

    Did use a orbital palm sander(wood working version) with 330 to help remove some really bad crazing on one.

    Quote Originally Posted by KMdef9 View Post
    You might be spending more time compounding out the 1000 versus doing the 3000 then compounding.
    This is what I'm am trying to avoid by using the "heavy" cut compound.

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