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  1. #41
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by Booki View Post
    I just ordered the lake country purple pad (think its a wool/foam type) and a generic wool pad...will see how i go with those pads once they come in.

    I recken they should get me in a good place with minimal eating of clear.

    But who knows, Im still very noob at it all....I got good results on my GTR, removed 99% of swirls and just use polish and a purple lake country type pad.

    Good choice. If the DA won't cut it you could always pick up a $60 rotary from SCA. More dangerous for your paint than a DA but a lot safer than sanding...
    You may get better results using the wool pads with a rotary than DA but I'm not 100% sure.

    Regarding the correction you achieved on your GTR, that was white & this is black (or a very dark colour) yeah?
    Will make a big difference to what defects are easily visible IMO. Also being the car that it is you would hope the GTR has been well looked after!

  2. #42
    Member Booki's Avatar
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    Its been a magical month, but don't worry. I havn't forgotten and left you's hanging!
    I did finish the car, for a total newwwby like myself it came up "alright".

    I think if I hit it with a rotary it would have came up alot better, but here are the results. Crappy phone camera, but you get the idea.

    Used my DAS6 Pro + LC Woolen type pad, Mezerna Polish, and Meguirs Carnuba Wax.

    Now here is the kicker...After slaving away polishing this thing, I noticed now a whole bunch of "white dots" on my car, there were not there previously.
    First reaction - Da F%^K?! I thought detailing was meant to make the car look better!!

    Upon looking at them closer today, I think whats happened is the polish has dried up in chips in the paint, and didn't feel like coming out when I would go over it with my microfiber towels. Any tips to get these suckers out?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted-img_20130712_130738_small-jpg   Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted-img_20130713_125036_small-jpg   Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted-img_20130714_122554_small-jpg  

  3. #43
    Member Booki's Avatar
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by neat e34 View Post
    Good choice. If the DA won't cut it you could always pick up a $60 rotary from SCA. More dangerous for your paint than a DA but a lot safer than sanding...
    You may get better results using the wool pads with a rotary than DA but I'm not 100% sure.

    Regarding the correction you achieved on your GTR, that was white & this is black (or a very dark colour) yeah?
    Will make a big difference to what defects are easily visible IMO. Also being the car that it is you would hope the GTR has been well looked after!
    Do you think cheap rotary's from SCA will even do anything? I think I remember reading somewhere that they are only powerful enough to spread wax....ha ha, top stuff for a rotary if true!

    Re the GTR - Its white, so that is probably why it hides alot of my dud detailing, but i can say under lights there was a significant improvement. If i were to do it again, I think I would get much better results. The GTR is in fantastic condition, I am contemplating on selling it though, doesn't get driven.

    Back to detailing...The more I do it, the better I become

    Towards the end of the commodore, I felt like I was a pro!

  4. #44
    Senior Member HateSwirls's Avatar
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    A while back someone hired me to correct their 2007 Honda Civic, this car sits in the sun all the time and never got washed much less add protection to it, the CC was in the worst shape that I've ever seen on any car.

    After wash it for about three hours I started claying, after spending about two hours claying the hood I found it did nothing, it actually felt like sand paper.

    The only thing I could do to save the paint was to wet sand it, the entire car, I started out with 1500 and ended it with 3000 grit.
    Then the compounding , polishing, etc.

    Anyway the car came out looking new, the paint looked as though it was just repainted.
    You really must know what your doing when it comes to sanding, you could make matters worst and keep in mind , once you sand it there's no turning back.
    This was a small car but still took a very long time to correct it this way, if you decide to sand it do a small area on a lower fender then compound it and inspect it to see if you fixed it.

    Good luck, you'll need it

  5. #45
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    I have inclusions or deeper scratches in my 12 Corvette. Ive used Micro Fber and Meg's 100 to do a very nice job of
    correction. I then have been using 3inch 3m TriZact 5000 Grit Foam Backed Wet Pads on my Porter Cable 7424XP.

    This has helped a little but the scratches, marks are still showing......

    Why would using my ACDelco paint pen with the Foam Clear Brush to fill these above scratches, and then come back "later"
    and level with the 5000 TroiZact ???....Add Clear to the Clear Coat Defects

  6. #46
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by CamarosRus View Post

    This has helped a little but the scratches, marks are still showing......

    I'd suggest being careful when it comes to sanding factory clearcoats because they are very thin....

    Clearcoats are thin by Mike Phillips


    The majority of cars being manufactured today and starting since the 1980's use what's called a basecoat/clearcoat paint system. With this system, a clear layer of paint is sprayed over the top of the basecoat which is also the color coat or the layer of paint that has pigment in it. If the car has a metallic finish then the metallic flakes are also in the basecoat.

    The basecoat doesn't offer any gloss or shine and in fact it's dull or matte looking after it's sprayed. The basecoat gets it's gloss, shine, depth and reflectivity by the spraying of the clearcoat layer of paint over the top of it. This is why if a person removes too much clearcoat when buffing and they expose the basecoat it will appear to be a dull round or oval spot on a body panel. The part of the paint system that adds beauty has been removed revealing the dull or matte basecoat layer of paint.



    Just how thin is the clear layer of paint on a factory paint job?

    The factory clearcoat on a new or modern car measures approximately 2 mils thin.

    The average post-it not is around 3 mils thin.







    What does this mean?

    This means the factory clearcoat on a new or modern car is thinner than a post-it note.

    The next time you have a post-it note in front of you, feel a single post-it note between your fingers. Like this...







    This experience will drive home the point as to just how thin the clear layer of paint is on modern car with a factory paint job.

    It should also drive home the importance of using the least aggressive pad, product and even tools to get the job done.

    When I say, get the job done, the context of this usually means someone is buffing out a car to remove paint defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation to make the paint and thus the car look better.

    By using the least aggressive products you "get the job done" while leaving the most paint on the car to it will last over the mechanical service life of the car.

    If you're working on your own cars and you're reading this you're already ahead of the game by reading the AGO forum and probably being a member so you can ask questions and get help.

    If you're working on customer's cars take a professional approach as a service to your customers.


    If you're reading this and you're going to do the work yourself or hire a detailer then do some research and make sure you hire a detailer that knows this type of stuff because the factory clearcoat on your car is thin.





    Besides the above - the deeper scratches you're seeing are called RIDS - here's my article on this topic,


    RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


    In most cases, most people should learn to live with deep scratches called RIDS versus try to remove them.

    Even if you do remove them - you have just made your car's already thin paint even thinner and you're expecting it to hold up.


    Mike Phillips
    Director of Training Autogeek & Marine 31
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  7. #47
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    Re: Thinking of wet sanding my whole car - advice wanted

    Quote Originally Posted by CamarosRus View Post
    .Add Clear to the Clear Coat Defects
    when body repair work is done, typically a complete panel is cleared because it is next to impossible to blend clear. if a panel isnt completely cleared the edges of the new clear will show now matter how good it is blended,sanded,and buffed.
    you can go ahead and try it but theres a chance you will be able to see the repaired area. it might even stand out if the paint isnt an exact match, which thats another story- paint pens arent always an exact match.
    another thing:
    if that paint pen is a straight basecoat, the basecoat has a window of how long to get the clear on so the clear can "bite" into the base. if the clear is applied outside the window without scuffing, adhesion problems can happen down the road.

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