Anybody restore Aluminum wheels wetsanding?

**Flash Gordon** · 08-25-2012, 10:07 PM

Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant

The OP would be well suited, IMO, to rethink his game plan, or buy aftermarket or Craigslist wheels.

My thoughts too ^

Unless you are dealing with a rare factory type rim I think the time involved would not make it worthwhile. Especially as cheap as custom rims have become

Back on track !!!

**Vegas Transplant** · 08-25-2012, 10:11 PM

**Flash Gordon** · 08-25-2012, 10:13 PM

Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant

**ShineMyCar** · 08-25-2012, 10:22 PM

Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant

@ Kevin Cullen
Polish Chrome Wheel.wmv - YouTube

Is this wheel chrome or stainless?

Were you spinning black emery (400 grit) @ 3400rpm on purple vented buff ?

Why?

Thanks,

Picture is worth a 1,000 words sometimes. What is that polisher. Is it a modified angle grinder with guard removed? Could you take a standard angle grinder and remove the guard. I might be able to pick an angle grinder up on the cheap.

I can see how finishing my wheels would be " MUCH " easier with a tool like that.

.

**Flash Gordon** · 08-25-2012, 10:31 PM

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxxG4A4OgHI&feature=related]DIY - how to polish rims - YouTube[/video]

**Vegas Transplant** · 08-25-2012, 10:50 PM

Let me put it this way SMC, If you want to polish out the entire wheel, then that tool is fine.
but, if you only want to polish out the spokes and rims, then you would have to do a lot of unneccesary taping off for various steps.
The desired speed or SFPM for polishing mirror bright is 3,600 - 7,500 SFPM. Surface feet per minute. So the two-speed buffer that Mr. Cullen uses @ 3400rpm with a 10" wheel produces 8,500 SFPM...too fast as it will lose the ability to keep the compound on the wheel.
To attain the desired speed with a smaller hand held, thus smaller wheel is nigh impossible.
That's not saying that you won't get mirror finish...just takes longer.

Your best bet if you're bound and determined to finish this project is to chemically strip the entire wheel front, then sand, polish, paint, and seal.
There are dozens of videos showing the process on Youtube, just gotta sort through the bull dung.

Last point.
You can buy any harbor freight rotary, $25- $40, and the arbor adaptor (another $10) but then you will need several of the wheels - one per compound used to get mirror shine, scratch free. The compounds and the wheels are $6 - $10 each. So at minimum, you will need tripoli and white (around 12 bucks combined)
then at least two buffing wheels at about the same, so as to not contaminate you wheels when changing grit.

I suggest that you PM DaveL, post #5, since he has successfully finished multiple sets similar to what you are seeking.

**Vegas Transplant** · 08-25-2012, 11:02 PM

That's a great video Flash.
Kinda looks like my two brothers, Darryl and Darryl.

**Kevin Cullen** · 08-26-2012, 12:48 AM

Originally Posted by Vegas Transplant

@ Kevin Cullen
Polish Chrome Wheel.wmv - YouTube

Is this wheel chrome or stainless?

Were you spinning black emery (400 grit) @ 3400rpm on purple vented buff ?

Why?

Hey Vegas- Yes I was turning the buff at 3400 rpm because I can not generate enough heat at 1400 with the tire still mounted on the rim. Seems like the air in the tire and the tire itself absorbs a lot of the heat. I don't get the ambient air temp that you guys get down south so I have to generate my own. When I was in Phoenix in the summer time the metals were at a great temp for polishing.

The rim was a steel rim with a chrome coating. Factory GM wheel set up.

I like the stiff purple buff for projects like these because it chews pretty good and doesn't get plugged up with rouge (less cleaning of the pad through out the job).

When I am doing aluminum I can polish at 1400 with the course rouge and then go to 3400 with my final coloring rouge.
Aluminum is such a soft metal and much easier to buff that the rock blasted stuff I was doing in the video.

**Kevin Cullen** · 08-26-2012, 12:51 AM

Originally Posted by ShineMyCar

Thanks,

Picture is worth a 1,000 words sometimes. What is that polisher. Is it a modified angle grinder with guard removed? Could you take a standard angle grinder and remove the guard. I might be able to pick an angle grinder up on the cheap.

I can see how finishing my wheels would be " MUCH " easier with a tool like that.

.

ShineMyCar- the polisher I am using is made for polishing. It is a two speed unit 1400 and 3400 rpm. Some people do use modified angle grinders but it is one speed only unless you can find an adjustable one.

**Vegas Transplant** · 08-26-2012, 02:26 AM

Originally Posted by Kevin Cullen

Hey Vegas- Yes I was turning the buff at 3400 rpm because I can not generate enough heat at 1400 with the tire still mounted on the rim. Seems like the air in the tire and the tire itself absorbs a lot of the heat. I don't get the ambient air temp that you guys get down south so I have to generate my own. When I was in Phoenix in the summer time the metals were at a great temp for polishing.

The rim was a steel rim with a chrome coating. Factory GM wheel set up.

I like the stiff purple buff for projects like these because it chews pretty good and doesn't get plugged up with rouge (less cleaning of the pad through out the job).

When I am doing aluminum I can polish at 1400 with the course rouge and then go to 3400 with my final coloring rouge.
Aluminum is such a soft metal and much easier to buff that the rock blasted stuff I was doing in the video.

Maybe it's me Mr. Cullen, but 400 grit rouge and a stiff wheel on chrome is overkill.
I can only imagine the leading edges of the wheel's intricate surfaces after being plowed by both products.
There are OP's here that post of burning through the chrome simply by using a soft foam cone, underpowered drill, and an OTC paste polish.

It was only several weeks ago that I PM'ed a poster telling him to PM you seeking advice.

That was before I saw your blog/website/videos. If you look @ APAD's, Flannigan's, B&B's , Corey's, tuscora dave's...(and the list is endless) individual websites and videos, they show their own work. Vehicles that they are, or have, worked on.
Not resorting to parlor tricks such as the bait and switch that you used in the chrome wheel video. What was the hurry - fear of timing out on YouTube?
I find it almost criminal that you would tell a prospective customer to use 400 grit and a stiff wheel, remove the item from the set,then proceed to show only green liquid polish with a softer buff.

While I am a simple man (self taught, guided by those in the field), common sense goes a long way, and Autogeekians aren't easily deceived...don't pee on my leg hand and tell me it's raining.

I wish you much luck and success, but don't think for a minute that Autogeekians are simple minded. I was greatful when you joined here, due to the fact that I only seek guidance from one metal working forum, and thought maybe your insight could add value to what I may be missing out on.

Last, but not least, I agree with the ambient temp/wheel suface temp issue....but, the GM two part wheel is not tightly fitted, thus less of the possibility of heat draw. If you get your SFPM down to the correct level and increase pressure, while decreasing arm movement, then the issue will resolve itself unless in extreme situations.

If I owe you an apology, then I'm sure that AGO forum members will come to your defense and set me on the right track.