Questions concerning colour sanding/buffing fresh paint on an MGB…
Hello, my name is Sam, and I am currently restoring my Brookland’s Green 1977 MG MGB Roadster. Due to some extensive bodywork I must carry out – mostly caused by string of DPO’s (An acronym oft repeated in classic car circles translating to “Dumb Previous Owner”.) – I will soon be repainting my car using a modern single-stage acrylic-urethane manufactured by BASF (Glasurit 22-Line: REALLY nice paint!), and I have some questions for you about cutting and buffing the fresh finish.
I am laying down almost 3-mils of my chosen top-coat (Which equates to 3-coats in the paint system I am using.), so that I will have plenty to work with now and in the future. My plan was to wet-sand manually with Mirka-Abralon 2000 and 4000 grit sandpaper following defect-correction, before using a rotary buffer (I’m leaning towards the Metabo PE 12-175 so far, as it is compact, and I’ve had good experience with the quality of their power tools in the past.) combined with an appropriate foam pad and polish to finish off the remaining fine scratches. The polishes I intend to use are manufactured by Menzerna, as they have a reputation for quality, and always perform favorably in tests which include an IPA wipe-down. Unlike most of the modern cars I see detailed on forums like Auto-Geek, my car has lots of compound curves, and even external body seams on some panels, which will make sanding (Nearly impossible with a D/A.) and buffing somewhat challenging.
Because of this, it is inevitable that I will end up buffing on the edge of the pad at some point in time, thus rendering most of the pads available on the market (Which have a sharp edge somewhere along their circumference.) a hazard. What pad system would you recommend for a rotary buffer that would conform well to the body-lines of my car, and negate this risk? The only pad system I have seen in my research that promotes it’s ability to use the edge of the pad safely is the new Lake Country disposable ‘1-Pad’ system advertised on Auto-Geek by Mike Phillips, which will probably be out by the time I should need it. The system’s disposable nature irks me, as I believe it is wasteful for one who works on as few cars as I do. Can you think of anything else that you would recommend, or would the pad system mentioned be the best bet?
Also, what technique(s) would you recommend to avoid burning through the paint on the edge of the body-seams? During sanding (Albeit in primer), I have seen professional painters tape them off using several layers of masking tape to protect them, then remove the tape and lightly scuff the surface to avoid this inevitability. Would this technique also apply when buffing?
I am very open to any advice on the methods I have chosen, as this is the first car that I will have ever refinished in this manor. I have researched extensively to get to this point, and I will be doing lots of practice with the techniques and products I have mentioned on scrap panels before I attempt any work on my own car. I thank you very much for any assistance you may be able to provide, and I shall look forward to hearing the results of this post.
Yours Truly,
Sam (AKA: Steampunk)
“Quality is never an accident; it is always the result of intelligent effort.”
JOHN RUSKIN (1819-1900)
“The outcome of any serious research can only be to make two questions grow where only one grew before.”
THORSTEIN VEBLEN (1857-1929) The Place of Science in Modern Civilization (1919)
Re: Questions concerning colour sanding/buffing fresh paint on an MGB…
Originally Posted by Steampunk
Hello, my name is Sam, and I am currently restoring my Brookland’s Green 1977 MG MGB Roadster.
Hi Sam,
Since this was your first post...
Welcome to Autogeek Online!
You posted this the last day of SEMA so I apologize that I just now found it, I wasn't really set up to actively post to the forum while working the SEMA Show.
Originally Posted by Steampunk
My plan was to wet-sand manually with Mirka-Abralon 2000 and 4000 grit sandpaper following defect-correction, before using a rotary buffer (I’m leaning towards the Metabo PE 12-175 so far, as it is compact, and I’ve had good experience with the quality of their power tools in the past.) combined with an appropriate foam pad and polish to finish off the remaining fine scratches.
Brand new Flex Rotary Buffer being introduced to the market...
At SEMA 2010, Flex introduced their brand new compact Rotary Buffer. I was honored to receive the #2 production unit and it's already seen lots of use at this year's SEMA show. In fact I encouraged everyone that stopped by our booth to test it out and most people did.
The fit and finish is excellent on this new lightweight rotary buffer and I'll stick to what I said in the video we made with Bob Eichelberg and that is it's the Mercedes-Benz of lightweight and compact rotary buffers...
Here's a new video we shot with Bob Eichelberg, the President of Flex North America, just a few weeks before SEMA
The FLEX PE14-2-150 Rotary Buffer
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YShAVw7zMkE]YouTube - Autogeek's Show Car Garage - New FLEX PE14-2 Rotary Polisher[/video]
You're going to want a wool cutting pad for your first machine step to cut out the sanding marks fast and effectively and cooler than buffing with an aggressive foam pad.
Originally Posted by Steampunk
The polishes I intend to use are manufactured by Menzerna,
Good choice, the M105 Ultra Compound is also a great aggressive compound that is rated at removing down to #1200 grit sanding marks while finishing out really nice.
[quote=Steampunk;375905]
Because of this, it is inevitable that I will end up buffing on the edge of the pad at some point in time, thus rendering most of the pads available on the market (Which have a sharp edge somewhere along their circumference.) a hazard.
Brand new pad system that sounds perfect for your needs...
Form fitting pads are self-centering, simply align, press and buff!
Tri-density cushion backing plate maintains consistent cushion feel, won’t break down with use like conventional pads.
Full radius deign allows user to buff safely over entire pad surface as well as buff safely on edge.
1-Pad use 65% less material than most conventional buffing pads.
Pad shape allows easy transition from flat to vertical surfaces.
Action shots...
The backing plate is incredibly flexible while offering enough resistance to help maintain optimum contact between the working surface of the pad and the panel.
The full radius design enables you to safely buff with the face of the pad and the edges...
The self-centering feature helps to reduce the potential for swirls while provide smooth, balanced buffing...
A wide range of buffing pads available to tackle any project that comes your way...
Smooth buffing experience with CCS Technology...
Cupped design makes alignment a cinch and provide risk-free buffing around curves and tight areas...
Aggressive wool cutting pad for removing sanding marks after wetsanding or dampsanding as well as removing serious below surface paint defects.
Align, press onto backing plate and you're ready to buff!
Lake Country's 1-Pad Polishing System
I'll be doing some more testing with this new 1-Pad Polishing System from Lake Country, stay tuned for more information...
[QUOTE=Steampunk;375905]
What pad system would you recommend for a rotary buffer that would conform well to the body-lines of my car, and negate this risk? The only pad system I have seen in my research that promotes it’s ability to use the edge of the pad safely is the new Lake Country disposable ‘1-Pad’ system advertised on Auto-Geek by Mike Phillips, which will probably be out by the time I should need it.
Whoops... answered your question before getting to this part...
See my above reply about the new 1-Pad System.
Originally Posted by Steampunk
The system’s disposable nature irks me, as I believe it is wasteful for one who works on as few cars as I do. Can you think of anything else that you would recommend, or would the pad system mentioned be the best bet?
Disposing of the pads is up to you... you don't have to...
Originally Posted by Steampunk
Also, what technique(s) would you recommend to avoid burning through the paint on the edge of the body-seams? During sanding (Albeit in primer), I have seen professional painters tape them off using several layers of masking tape to protect them, then remove the tape and lightly scuff the surface to avoid this inevitability. Would this technique also apply when buffing?
Just tape them off before sanding and buffing and be carefully when working around them.
Originally Posted by Steampunk
I am very open to any advice on the methods I have chosen, as this is the first car that I will have ever refinished in this manor. I have researched extensively to get to this point, and I will be doing lots of practice with the techniques and products I have mentioned on scrap panels before I attempt any work on my own car. I thank you very much for any assistance you may be able to provide, and I shall look forward to hearing the results of this post.
Yours Truly,
Sam (AKA: Steampunk)
If you haven't sanded and buffed out an entire car, or at least not in a while, then maybe practice on a junker car before diving in head first on the real deal.
Take your time and maybe only tackle a section at at time so you don't burn out the first day...
Re: Questions concerning colour sanding/buffing fresh paint on an MGB…
With a car that has as many difficult area's as the one you will be working on, it may also be helpful to pick up some smaller pads and a backing plate to fit them. They will assist in control around contours and be able to reach in tight areas such as around your side marker lights.
It will also be helpful to remove anything from the car that can be removed before sanding and buffing. This would include license plate, antenna, removable trim, ect.
With careful taping and precise control of your sanding and buffing, you can get great results.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Dislikes: 
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Steampunk
Bookmarks