Need advice - Oxidized Paint Correction on 1968 Dodge Charger

[Mike Phillips]

And here's this...


All Mike Phillips #7 Show Car Glaze Articles in one place


Here's my articles on #7 I recommend reading them all...


This is the original, and incredibley in-depth article on the topic of restoring antique piant with #7 - LOTS of great info and pictures.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints








Wayne Carini 1954 Hudson Hornet Original Paint Restored by Mike Phillips

Here's a walk-around video I mad showing the before condition of the Hudson and explaining the technique for using #7 to restore the original paint.





Here's the TV commercial we did with the Hudson and using #7 plus Pinnacle products, which are the products I actually did use to restore the paint over the entire car.








The #7 Rub Down Technique by Mike Phillips







Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze - Goodbye to an old friend - hello to a new friend!








4 Steps to restore single paint paint - 1972 Mercedes-Benz 280 SE






On Autogeek.com


Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze

[BrokenHero]

Okay awesome, thanks Mike and Tom! Yup, makes perfect sense.

Yeah, that video on the Meguair's #7 rubdown is great.

I'm very impressed by the #7. I need to get the car out in the sunlight, but it seems to have removed the white micro marring you can see in this before video? Is that possible? Seems almost too good to be true, haha. This is the side that I had done some DA polishing on and mentioned in the first post of this thread.

1968 Dodge Charger - Sunlight After Paint Correction (Still Oxidized and Hazy) - 3-21-21 - YouTube

Is this a good choice for pad to apply the Blackfire One Step with the DA or should I go with something firmer for more correction? And, just to confirm, do nothing with 3D One, even with a DA?

Griots Garage 6.5 inch Black Foam Finishing Pad (2-Pack)

Sorry for all the questions. I'm reading the book and the articles, but just like to confirm everything since each situation with old single stage paint can be different or call for slightly different approaches.


Thank you so much! You've got a Mike Phillips fan and AutoGeek customer for life!

Ted

[Mike Phillips]

Okay awesome, thanks Mike and Tom! Yup, makes perfect sense.

Yeah, that video on the Meguair's #7 rubdown is great.

I'm very impressed by the #7. I need to get the car out in the sunlight, but it seems to have removed the white micro marring you can see in this before video? Is that possible?

The oils in the #7 would make anything whitish disappear. Rubbing it over old paint can remove white oxidation and reveal fresh paint that still has good pigmentation. But as far as physically removing defects by abrading or leveling the paint - the answer is "no".

#7 is non-abrasive. You might get some cut from the pad, tool and pressure over time, but not the product itself.

Is this a good choice for pad to apply the Blackfire One Step with the DA or should I go with something firmer for more correction? And, just to confirm, do nothing with 3D One, even with a DA?

Griots Garage 6.5 inch Black Foam Finishing Pad (2-Pack)

No. Get the orange version of these Griot's pads. That will give the product more bite and thus better correction ability.

Sorry for all the questions. I'm reading the book and the articles, but just like to confirm everything since each situation with old single stage paint can be different or call for slightly different approaches.


Thank you so much! You've got a Mike Phillips fan and AutoGeek customer for life!

Ted

Just happy to help another person through to success with their project.

[BrokenHero]

Sounds good re: orange pads. Will keep everyone updated on the Blackfire One Step test spot, etc.

thanks again!
Ted

The oils in the #7 would make anything whitish disappear. Rubbing it over old paint can remove white oxidation and reveal fresh paint that still has good pigmentation. But as far as physically removing defects by abrading or leveling the paint - the answer is "no".

#7 is non-abrasive. You might get some cut from the pad, tool and pressure over time, but not the product itself.





No. Get the orange version of these Griot's pads. That will give the product more bite and thus better correction ability.







Just happy to help another person through to success with their project.

[TMQ]

It gonna be awesome!

Can't wait for results!

Tom

[BrokenHero]

Hey guys!
Just did a test panel with the DA, orange griot pad, and Blackfire One Step. Six section passes.

It's doesn't look THAT much different than the paint did after Meguiar's 7 rubdown. I'm probably going too fast with the polisher, adding too much One Step, or doing something else wrong. Or, it's just that my 53 year old paint isn't reacting to it.

It tends to look a little murkier actually, like it's going into the paint but not making it shiny.

Here are a few vids. I think the second test panel, on the trunk lid, looks a little better.

If this is as good as it gets, is there a world where I just seal it with Blackfire One Step and/or a carnauba wax by hand? I'm pretty bad with the DA and it's kinda loud in my apartment parking garage. Or, if it's better to change my approach with the DA, either using better technique or a different product or pad, please let me know. Thanks!

I'll post some photos, too.

1968 Dodge Charger - DA Polishing w/ One Step and Orange Pad - Part 1 - YouTube

1968 Dodge Charger - DA Polishing w/ One Step and Orange Pad - Part 2 - YouTube

[2black1s]

I watched your vids... Your DA process is greatly improved since your earlier videos where I made the "haphazard" comment.

As for the BF One Step not making much improvement, my experience with old paint is that once it gets to a certain point it will never polish back out. And on top of that, any polish or wax or AIO you use on it will actually make it look worse with the whitish, milky, hazy look you describe.

What I've done in the past with paint in your condition is to finish it with a "oily" protectant (think Armor-All or similar type products). It's been a while and I don't remember exactly what protectant I used, but I tried a bunch, and it will make old paint like yours look as good as it can get. It will hide any chalkiness/haziness and brighten the color better than anything else I ever tried.

It works on the same principle as the #7... That is getting oils into the paint.

You can only do so much with old deteriorated paint and the "protectant" route is the best method I've ever found. It's easy too. Just wipe it on quite liberally, let it soak in, and then buff off the excess. Repeat as often as you find necessary as it will not last a very long time... Every 2-3 weeks or so.

[BrokenHero]

Thanks, much appreciated!

Yeah, that makes sense. I was thinking of trying Meguiar’s 21 Synthetic Sealant of their Yellow Wax
by hand or trying once more with Blackfire One Step and DA. I wonder if something like Rupes P800
protective sealant or even a ceramic coating would be worth it.

At the end of the day, I’m very happy with what the Meguiar’s 7 rubdown achieved and am basically good to keep
It like that but I remember Mike saying it needs to be sealed at this point.

Here are some pics.

Thanks all!

[BrokenHero]

[TMQ]

I have question....

How many rub downs did you do?

In some cases, I have done 7 rubdowns in 7 days! Just to make sure paint was full of the oils from Megs #7.

Tom