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  1. #1
    Member JT Moto's Avatar
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    Compound selection after 2000 grit

    I have about 15 2021 Silverado trucks starting to cycle out of our Bodyshop and headed to my bays.

    The painter sends them to me for sanding of the dirt nibs, fisheyes and other defects. We have an old booth that doesnít hold temp well so there are defects a plenty!

    Given the sheer volume of work headed my way Iím looking for some advice on compounds after sanding down to 2000 grit.

    On small spots I typically use Wolfgang UBER compound and an orange pad, but that would get expensive real quick with all of these trucks. Hoping to find some more cost effective compounds and I am open to good pad choices as well. I have a good stock of Lake Country Hybrid pads but no wool or wool blends.




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  2. #2
    Member JT Moto's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    These trucks are GM owned and will be sent to auction afterwards so they donít need to be of perfect quality. They are all different colors and some only need one panel done while others are 6 panels in need of work. ie marching the factory orange peel and taking out the imperfections from their trip to the paint booth.


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  3. #3
    Senior Member 98CayenneTA's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Rotary with 3D ACA 500 paired with a Hex Logic Orange foam pad will knock 2000 grit out pretty quick.
    I run it around 1100-1200 rpms
    Ripping through your mind like a hurricane full of novocaine

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  5. #4
    Senior Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Quote Originally Posted by JT Moto View Post
    I have about 15 2021 Silverado trucks starting to cycle out of our Bodyshop and headed to my bays.

    The painter sends them to me for sanding of the dirt nibs, fisheyes and other defects. We have an old booth that doesnít hold temp well so there are defects a plenty!

    Given the sheer volume of work headed my way Iím looking for some advice on compounds after sanding down to 2000 grit.

    On small spots I typically use Wolfgang UBER compound and an orange pad, but that would get expensive real quick with all of these trucks. Hoping to find some more cost effective compounds and I am open to good pad choices as well. I have a good stock of Lake Country Hybrid pads but no wool or wool blends.




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    Whooa, that many damaged trucks? Menzerna 400 is not cheap, but in most cases you can 1 step, except for black paint. For the extra step that it will save you it's more than worth the cost of the compound.

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  7. #5
    Member JT Moto's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Quote Originally Posted by Rsurfer View Post
    Whooa, that many damaged trucks? Menzerna 400 is not cheap, but in most cases you can 1 step, except for black paint. For the extra step that it will save you it's more than worth the cost of the compound.
    Yes, Iím sure it was either a train load or a couple of car haulers that had bad days. These things are stacked up all over the place. If I can one step it, that would pay for itself with just the time saved.


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  8. #6
    Senior Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    My goto compound is Meguiars M105. If I get myself in a situation where M105 cannot remove the sanding scratches, I switch to M101 and they get removed. It really depends on the paint hardness. I use a DA with a foam cutting pad to remove sanding scratches, if you use something more agressive like a rotary and/or wool pads, you might not need as agressive a compound.

  9. #7
    Member JT Moto's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Quote Originally Posted by Calendyr View Post
    My goto compound is Meguiars M105. If I get myself in a situation where M105 cannot remove the sanding scratches, I switch to M101 and they get removed. It really depends on the paint hardness. I use a DA with a foam cutting pad to remove sanding scratches, if you use something more agressive like a rotary and/or wool pads, you might not need as agressive a compound.
    I used to use 105 quite a bit but moved on from it for no real reason. I ordered a flex rotary to help me power through these a bit quicker. Given how bad the booth is, there is more correction than I care to admit. I ordered the compounds listed by the other guys, and I still have some 105. I may end up just spreading the love around on the first couple of trucks and then find whatís going to work best for me so I donít end up buried in these things in addition to my normal workload.


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  10. #8
    Senior Member Calendyr's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Quote Originally Posted by JT Moto View Post
    I used to use 105 quite a bit but moved on from it for no real reason. I ordered a flex rotary to help me power through these a bit quicker. Given how bad the booth is, there is more correction than I care to admit. I ordered the compounds listed by the other guys, and I still have some 105. I may end up just spreading the love around on the first couple of trucks and then find what’s going to work best for me so I don’t end up buried in these things in addition to my normal workload.


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    The one reason I can think of for switching from M105 would be the dusting. I never use it to compound a car. I just use it for wetsanding scratch marks removal, so because it's a very small area, I don't mind the little dust it creates. On a whole car though, what a pain!

  11. #9
    Senior Member 98CayenneTA's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Any updates?

    Just curious how it's going/went.
    Ripping through your mind like a hurricane full of novocaine

  12. #10
    Member JT Moto's Avatar
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    Re: Compound selection after 2000 grit

    Quote Originally Posted by 98CayenneTA View Post
    Any updates?

    Just curious how it's going/went.
    Shortly after this post I tested positive for COVID so I wonít know until Monday when I get back to work.


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