The new blackfire aio can remove heavy sanding marks so I'm just saying, the technology is there to save time and get good results.
I think it comes down to paint preservation. Leave as much paint on the surface as possible.
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The new blackfire aio can remove heavy sanding marks so I'm just saying, the technology is there to save time and get good results.
I think it comes down to paint preservation. Leave as much paint on the surface as possible.
There's a million ways to skin a cat....
(Sorry PETA - just a cliché)
When I say there's a million ways to skin a cat, what you use depends on what you want to accomplish plus how much time you want to invest.
A few weeks ago I cut a car using a rotary and finished out with an orbital. My PRIMARY goal was to TEST out two new tools so I could write reviews. My secondary goal was to do my best work possible as that's how I roll in the Autogeek Shire as well as wanting to show the owner my appreciation for him trusting me with his old 2-door passenger car.
Here's those write-ups with pictures that never disappear :laughing:
Review: RUPES BigFoot LHR 19E Rotary Polisher by Mike Phillips at Autogeek
Review: RUPES BIGFOOT MILLE LK 900E by Mike Phillips
Here's another cat I skinned using the FLEX PE14 Rotary Polisher first followed by my buddy Frank using an orbital. The pertinent portion is in post #2 of this thread,
How to wash Ferrari Wheels and Tires
I never was able to get to a "dedicated" write-up for the process used for the paint but I did share the process in post #2
See the text in red
Ferrari finished!
And here's the wheels and tires as well as the completed detail job to this Ferrari.
The paint was machine decontaminated using Nanoskin Autoscrub Pads on Porter Cable 7424XP DA Polishers.
The paint was then machine cut using the Flex PE14 with a wool pad and Uber Compound.
Next the paint was machine polished with the FLEX 3401 with a 5" Hybrid Black Finishing Pad and Wolfgang Finishing Glaze.
After compounding and polishing the paint was machine waxed using Wolfgang Fuzion.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=77094
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=77095
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=77096
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=77097
Here's the skinny....
I tried to cut the paint or "correct" the paint using only the orbital but it wasn't working fast enough or effective enough, meaning I was spending too much time and too much energy trying to remove the deepest swirls and scratches with the FLEX 3401. So instead of continuing down that road I simply switched over to a wool pad on a rotary and made fast work of leveling the paint.
Then Frank followed me with the FLEX 3401 and removed the hologram scratches left by the fibers of the wool pad.
Fast - Efficient - Show Car Quality
:)
I am assuming the operator is proficient. I'm just not assuming the operator is perfect. I'm not saying the rotary is not a necessary tool but the rotary really shouldn't be the first thing a detailer goes to, especially on a factory paint job that someone from the dealership has already buzzcut with a rotary.
A modded 21, 5" plate, xtra cut megs mf pad, m100... Yeah, give me the wool / rotary. I don't want to see bare metal.
There are times when I do a few test spots and determine my rotary and wool is needed. For example, I might do 2 test spots with my Flex 3401 and increase the aggression with the second test. If the second test is an improvement but not yet enough it's rotary and wool time. The last time in recent memory was a black Cad Escallade swirled to high heaven. The paint was very hard. I also do not remove any more paint than is necessary to level defects. By my 3rd test spot I have a pretty good idea how deep I need to go...safely.
Yup, I could continue with my Flex and work my butt off and get similar results but time IS a factor and there are those times that a rotary and wool are needed. When I do that I have instantly gone to a 2 step job to correct.
I can't remember the last time I needed more than 2 steps to cut and polish. The equipment and abrasives are that good now. They are so good that I am doing a lot of 1 steppers. Most of my work is done with my Flex 3401...whether 1 step or 2. BUT, when faced with hard paint and needing to cut down faster I always reach for my rotary.
And yes, I know how to use both. It's just that the Flex does almost as good as my rotary especially with today's products. "Almost as good" means I need to go rotary to save time ON SOME JOBS.
Having said all that, I agree that on certain jobs I cut with my rotary and refine with my 3401.
Good discussion btw. I enjoy other's perspectives.
Imo Rupes and microfiber/wool beats rotary in terms of cutting power unless you use those 10 inch knitted woolpads. I hardly ever compound with rotary but i sometimes like to finish with it just for fun and change.