The Kevin Brown Method for 'Finicky' Paint

[RPM_BR]

I read it, found it awesome, and asked master Kevin if I could re-publish at AGO. He said it is OK, as long I credit him and post a picture of the bottle. So, here it is:



"
The procedure of using Meguiar's® M205 Ultra Finishing Polish with strategic spritzes of water (12 drops of M205 per 32 ounces of water) is gaining in notoriety... and use! Here's a bit of background as to WHY the procedure was conjured up in the first place.

This was taken from a thread in the Facebook group Detailer Buddies, about how to eliminate haziness from "difficult-to-finish", or "haze-prone" paint.

"Once the "finicky" or "impossible-to-finish" paint is polished to the highest degree (yet some haziness remains), the M205/water can oftentimes (pretty much always) eliminate the hazing issue.

The thought process behind the procedure was one that had a goal of minimizing the accumulation of paint residue (in the buffing liquid, and on the pad). Since pretty much all buffing liquids are lotion-like, it's easy for them to retain paint residue.

IF there's a situation in which the residue is wreaking havoc an otherwise perfectly-polished paint surface, it's extremely difficult to get around the hazing problem.

A while back, I wanted to push the limits of M205, primarily because reports of other polishes being "superior", were frustrating to read.

First, I had to find the ideal buffing pads, because in order to perfect a paint surface, the buffing pad must not inherently or automatically install a fresh new defect.

To test my stash of buffing pads, I first perfected the test panel to the highest degree, then stripped it, so that I could be sure of its condition. Next, I decided to use water to polish the panel (instead of a paint polish), in order to determine whether or not each buffing pad was capable of creating a perfect finish.

Pretty obvious that cured automotive paint is NOT water-soluble (otherwise, a couple of carwashes would lead to catastrophe!), so I knew that eventually, paint residue would accumulate across the pad face, effectively glazing it with residue. Sure enough, after 20-30 seconds, EVERY pad would eventually haze the panel.

Initially, I experimented with a couple of different water-soluble tapping fluids, which worked pretty fantastic. However, it was difficult to replicate the proper dilution ratio needed, due to their variances in concentration. An extra drop or two was enough to cause excessive slipperiness, negating pad action.

Realizing the need for a paint safe solvent (other than water) that could potentially eliminate paint residue from glazing across the pad face, it seemed reasonable to add drops of M205 into the water. Although M205 contains abrasives, the impact on the test wouldn't be of big concern, particularly because the original goal was to test the limits of M205. Therefore, two tests essentially morphed into one, and I ended using M205 in the tiniest amount to polish the panel.

WOW (and WOW-WEE), what a neat result!

As you'd expect, there was a bit of water splashing about, so it was a little messy. However, it WAS just water, with the faintest amount of M205, and the mess was therefore easy to eliminate. In fact, a clean pad would squeegee and mop up any standing water with ease. If any remnants would not wipe away with ease, a spritz of water (or the M205/water mixture) would loosen the remnants, allowing it to be buffed or wiped away.

The water assisted in distributing M205's abrasives and solvents perfectly, in a superfine layer, and minimally across the pad. It seemed that somewhere in the vicinity of 10-15 drops of M205 per quart of water was sufficient to eliminate residue-glazing of the pad face.

If the "elixir" was not capable of eliminating haziness or superfine defects… It was very easy to apply the tiniest drop of M205 to the pad or paint surface, then mist additional elixir onto the pad face and polishing surface, and continue polishing.

Obviously, it is IMPERATIVE to keep the pad face clean. This seems to be best accomplished by saturating the pad face with the elixir, then run it against a clean microfiber towel for 10-15 seconds.

Should the situation occur in which the pad will no longer deliver a satisfactory result as it once did, it has very likely become coated with a thin layer of paint residue. To restore the pad to its original condition, apply a copious amount of M205 to the face, and agitate with a soft bristled nylon brush. Then soap, rinse, and dry the pad. Of course, it does not need to be completely dry before using, because you'll be using the water mixture again.

The most important thing to realize is that you cannot expect this procedure to work SUCCESSFULLY if there is an abundance of haziness present across the polishing surface, as there's simply not enough polishing solvents present (solvent, oil, etc.) to deal with an excess amount of paint residue.

Therefore, don't expect a miracle to occur if you haven't got the paint refined to the highest degree PRIOR TO using this procedure. When it works... It's fantastic, and fun!

The best part of using this procedure is that haze removal can be accomplished in as little as one single pass. In addition, you're able to see the paint as you are polishing (since the elixir is mostly water), so there's very little "masking" of the paint surface, and paint swell (due to solvent absorption) is a non-issue.

Panels and pads remain completely cool, so heat is also a non-issue as well."
"

[The Guz]

Post this over on the Meguiar's forum. It's a very interesting technique that is gaining popularity.

I have heard of someone else doing the same thing with that manufacturer's polishes. The idea of course comes from Kevin Brown.

[7.3powerstroke]

Thanks for posting