Glass Cleaning Tips

[eyedrop]

Windows are often the most overlooked in detailing, and at home. But having properly cleaned glass can make all the difference in the final outcome.

First, you want to work in a shady, cool environment. Unless the glass is new, you'll probably need to do some correction. If the glass is badly scratched, you might want to get it replaced. If its not bad then you can buy a glass polishing kit and use a polisher to help remove them. You can also use white toothpaste and work it in by hand, let it dry, then clean it all off. This is a temporary diy filler.

Next, you want to use #0000 steel wool DRY to get sap and contaminants off the window. Make sure to get all the edges. In my experience, I have never scratched a window with this and is much safer then a razor blade in my opinion. Do NOT use the steel wool on mirrors.

Make sure you spend a long time with the steel wool, getting every little imperfection out. If your scared of the steel wool or razor blade, you can supposedly use dilluted muriatic acid. I haven't tried this but muriatic acid is serious business. It will eat you skin and lungs alive if your not careful. I haven't used it but I know NEVER EVER ADD WATER TO ANY ACID. ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. DO NOT MIX CHEMICALS. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. This stuff is tremendously powerful.



The window should look really good by now. Its not entirely necessary to clean it again if you used the steel wool, but heres the best way Ive found:

Use a high quality aerosol glass cleaner such as invisible glass or plain water. Windex or anything with suds will add a film over the window because the evaporation happens too fast. Evaporation may seem like a good thing but it leaves a haze behind. Plain water actually works the best but you must thoroughly dry everything to avoid water spots. You also want to make sure the surface was thoroughly corrected if using water because water has no solvents. The beauty behind water is the purity.

Have 2 or more CLEAN towels ready, one for washing one for drying. I suggest microfiber cloths or squeegees for the drying. Paper towels leave lint everywhere.

Evenly Spray *just enough* product on the window to get the job done. Most people use too much, and end up getting the dry towel all wet and leaving the rest of the windows still wet, water spotted, and smeary. You will get the feel for how much product is just right.

Do all the edges first. Use firm pressure and make even, horizontal passes across the window. You want the work to get done in one pass, so dont go over it again unless you re wet the window. Now, take your dry towel and with firm pressure, get the edges. Then make vertical passes to buff out your window for streak free transparency. Its vital that you use a dry towel for the drying process, or else you will smear product back on the window. Dont forget to do inside and out, and roll down the windows to get those edges.

Even if you do it all properly, there is bound to be a streak somewhere. You can use the #0000 steel wool for touch ups so you dont have to rewet the window. When inspecting, do it in sun and look at the glass from all angles.

Windows are just like floors in the sense that if you keep them clean, the rest of it will seem cleaner than it actually is. Keep up on your windows and practice proper technique, and it becomes quick and easy eventually.

[Mike Phillips]

Next, you want to use #0000 steel wool DRY to get sap and contaminants off the window.

Make sure to get all the edges. In my experience, I have never scratched a window with this and is much safer then a razor blade in my opinion. Do NOT use the steel wool on mirrors.

I've owned a lot of older and classic cars in my life and sad to say that most of them had completely scratched up windows that looked like someone used steel wool on them.

I personally never use steel wool of any type on glass and never recommend it when there are liquid polishes that will do the same job without the risk.

If mirrors are glass and steel wool scratches mirrors, the steel wool is likely scratching windows but because they are clear it's harder for the eyes to see them.

If your scared of the steel wool or razor blade, you can supposedly use diluted muriatic acid.

I haven't tried this but muriatic acid is serious business. It will eat you skin and lungs alive if your not careful.

I haven't used it

We love a well-written how-to article on our forum but I would shy away from recommending to others things that are dangerous to them and things you don't have first hand successful experience with.


Other than the above, some good tips in here...

[Detail_Dude]

We love a well-written how-to article on our forum but I would shy away from recommending to others things that are dangerous to them and things you don't have first hand successful experience with.


Other than the above, some good tips in here...

+1 I have experience with muriatic acid (use it to remove mold from crawl spaces). Do *not* even think about purchasing it nor using it wihout prior research as to proper purpose, handling and application.

[jfelbab]

My $0.02.

Some newer cars come with a permanent rain repellant coating applied to the glass. Using steel wool or muriatic acid will damage that coating. I'd recommend a safer approach like clay. Clay will take off all the road grime and contaminants.

I also like cleaning the inside glass with horizontal strokes and the outside easing vertical strokes. That way you know immediately which side any any streaks are on.

FWIW, I've recently begun to add an ounce or two of D156 to my glass cleaner. This results in completely streak free and slick glass. Towels just glide across the glass. With the added slickness, they don't pull any lint from the toweling when drying.

[DaHen]

#0000 steel wool and dilluted muriatic acid....................


No thanks.

[eyedrop]

Thank you, I will look into the safety of steel wool on windows. One product Ive heard of is brass wool. It won't rust out like steel wool so you can use water with it to help lubricate the surface and avoid scratches. There are also plastic razorblades. Its vital to lube the surface well when working with razorblades. They can do serious damage that a polish won't take out. Never use razors on tinted windows or the defroster stripes on the inside back window.

Cleaning windows is an art of its own. There is a reason we have professional window washers.... A lot of these tips stem from my experience doing pro window washing for commercial buildings.

[BobbyG]

Well written tutorial on glass cleaning.

Cleaning glass requires "clean" cloths and towels. To avoid heavy towel contamination I'll give the surface an initial clean with a quality glass cleaner using paper towels. The cost of paper towel are cheep and they gladly lay down their lives for the more expensive Waffle Weave Microfiber brethren.

My choice of cleaner is Meguiar's Glass Cleaner D120. My preference in towels is Cobra's Waffle Weave Glass towel. When used together they'll leave the glass sparkling clean...

One towel to clean and another towel to dry.....

[eyedrop]

Thanks for the compliments guys, it does mean a lot considering Im a newbie in the auto detailing world and I look up to you guys. I mean, its Mike freakin Phillips in my thread!

I always look forward to learning from everyone.

[Bunky]

For traditional cleaning, you need two towels - one to wipe, and one to dry. I like the woven edgeless towels for the initial wipe and then a waffle weave for the finish.

[Sommy]

I hate cleaning the inside front windshield.