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  1. #1
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    Meg's 105 & 205 Experiences

    I wanted to start a thread to where people can share info about specific combinations Meg’s 105 & 205 products. I’ll share my experiences and hopefully others can add on and there will be a good place for others to come post with experience. When starting out you will get all kinds of recommendations and then it’s up to you to learn the technique. I hope a thread like this will help expedite the trial and error learning process. Please note, I'm picking this up right now myself and doing experimentation on junk panels (I highly recommend) and my own cars.

    Please read the how to articles on this site first to understand things like starting out least aggressive and working your way up. Doing diagnosis on a small area first before tackling larger sections etc.

    Pad conditioning
    As with all pads when starting, use a pad conditioner. Right now I’m using the Pinnacle XMT pad conditioner as it came with the machines I purchased. Also, after each session, look at your pad. If you see dried wax, I would recommend using a pad brush of some sort to clean the pad. Currently I use the Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad cleaning tool. Duo Spur Wool & Foam Pad Cleaning Tool: Scrub dirty pads clean with this multi-pupose cleaning tool! Use an air hose to blow the pad out afterwards.

    If you are using a pad such as the CCS and you see wet looking polish in the crevices, I recommend using an air hose to blow the wax out. If not for me it tends to cause caking or dusting issues eventually.

    If I sit my pad down for any amount of time between polishing, with the 105 and sometimes for the 205, I will spritz the pad with conditioner again.

    Spreading the polish
    With the 105 I find if you try to spread the compound over the entire area you’re going to work on with the machine on like you see in a lot of the how to videos, it can introduce caking or at the very least it creates a dry haze and the next passes will create more than usual dust. So far, I find I either run a 4” line when working a 14 to 18” square area and then run the buffer over it. (You can find videos of the techniques on Meg’s or YouTube. Or I use 2 pea size drops on each side of a 6.5” pad then I dab the pad on the paint and then turn the pad so the polish gets on different areas of the pad. Basically making sure when I turn the machine I have it spread out in the pad well enough so it doesn’t sling all over the place. This I have found so far to give me the least chance of caking or having the wax turn gummy in the area. Also, I find it necessary to use a higher speed when starting out than with say my Menzerna. My Flex 3403 1 is ok, my Flex 3401 I start on 4. I use the trigger to gentle get it going and when I’m comfortable that there isn’t going to be splatter I g full speed at 4 for one pass then bump it up to 5 or 6 depending on what I’m trying to correct.

    Working time

    105 – Can vary a little but typically it doesn’t work as long as a diminishing product like Menzerna. I’ve read it’s done in 30 seconds and speaking with Meg’s somewhere in the 1 to 2 minute range. One thing different than most, you apparently don’t want to work it until it’s clear like some other products. If you go that long you are running a dry pad on your paint. I find with the wool I can go longer than when using a pad.

    Basically if you’re pad was prepped, it will be white and wet looking your first couple of passes and then it will be clear and look kind of hologramish. At about that time you’re at the end of the time to use it. Again, if it’s clear you probably went to long.

    If it’s dry, then I’ve seen it go on hazy the first session or two and then a pass or two over it after this state and it’s clear and done. Note during this scenario is where I see more dusting. I’m experimenting spritzing with plain water if the first pass results in it looking hazy. Especially if it’s looks and feels kind of gummy.

    205 - According to Meg’s, 1 to 2 minutes of working time. Use that loosely to find what works best for you. But again, if the polish has turned clear, you’ve probably used it to long

    If have gone to where the polishes are clear and the problems aren’t corrected, prep the pad again and do another session. If you aren’t making progress, looking at going with next aggressive pad.

    Pad Combinations
    Lake Country
    After Wetsanding – 105 & Lake Country 6.5” purple foam wool & I follow it up with the 205 & a LC White CCS 6.5” pad
    Heavy to medium – same as above
    Light to medium – Here I may try 205 with an orange pad first or maybe 105 and an orange CCS followed by 205 & a White CCS pad.

    I haven’t gotten into Jeweling yet but if I do I’ll post that at a latter date. Anybody with recommendations on what to follow up with after 205 for this process, please post.

    Dust & Caking issues

    105
    Make sure you aren’t using too much or too little polish. I general start out with double pea sized amounts on clean pads. Then a pea sized amount on each side thereafter. If I’m working a really small area I may only use a pea sized drop on one side and dab it to spread the polish out.

    Make sure you are working in temps above 60 degrees.

    Make sure you aren’t spreading the Meg’s out all over the area to start like is demonstrated in a lot of the training videos using other products. As has been posted on here, the air from the machine can quickly cause the polish to dry out doing this and cause caking.

    If the polish goes on a little gummy, stop and try a squirt or two of water on it.

    If all else fails, call Meg’s. They’ll ask for the number on the back of the bottle and they can tell you how old the product is. In some cases, you can get a bad bottle and nothing you do can resolve the problem. They seem extremely good about replacing the product and their tech support is great. Also, make sure you store this product in a climate controlled environment. If the temp of it drops below 32 degrees it can break down the polish and render it pretty ineffective.

    Any option I’ve heard to 105 if you are having problems is to switch to Megs Ultimate Compound. It’s doesn’t have quite the cutting power but is supposed to be a lot more user friendly to use. I have a bottle I just got but haven’t used it yet.

    205 – Personally I haven’t had any issues with 205 nor have I read many.

    Machines
    Flex 3401 -
    105 I start out on 4 for a pass to get everything spread. (I find if you use anything lower, it sometimes leads to caking.) Then after the first pass I go to 5 or 6. Which depends on the area I’m working on and how bad the area is I’m trying to correct.
    205 – I start at 3 and spread this product out. I then run between 4 & 5 ½ I try to do a pass at 4, 5 & 5 ½ and then slow it down to finish it out. I know that’s a lot trying to get to work in a 1 minute window or so. I’m still tinkering with this but running it longer I haven’t seen issues as of yet personally.

    So far I use just the pressure of the machine unless I’m using 105 and there is one or two areas that need more than the rest. Then I’ll do the 10 to 15 in those areas alone. Otherwise if I’ll just get more aggressive with the pad.

    Flex 3403–
    105 –I start out on 1 until I’m comfortable the compound won’t splatter. Then I go to 2. I may go to 2.5 on something really bad.

    I use the same pressure as I do with the 3401.

    "That Final Pop"


    After reading some other threads I decided to see if there was that little bit extra I could get out of the shine. In participating in another thread, I ordered some Menzerna 85rd micro polish. On a car and a test panel I tried a few things. On the car I had already done the 105/205 process and it's been sitting in the garage waiting. The car looks deep black now but thought I would try experimenting. I taped off a section on the hood and tried the 85rd with a blue pad & my Flex 3401. I experimented running it between speed settings of 4 to 5.5.

    First impressions was it was thick and wet. It really never broke down past the halogram state and actually started dusting a little if I tried working it too long which I found odd. It was also thick to wipe off as well. Almost like a wet wax that you're supposed to let haze to take off. Environment was 65 degrees inside.

    Did this on the car as well as test panel. Having somebody look at the results afterwards with the tape off they couldn't find the spot on the hood that was any different from the rest I had finished with M105 & a white pad.

    So on to the test panel. I took a brillo and scratched it up. Went back to my faithful 105/purple wool foam pad and got the deep scratches out. Next I tried the 205 and Blue pad. It wouldn't quite remove swirls left from the 105/PWF pad so back to the 205 & white. Then for kix I used the 205 again with another blue foam pad. The end result looks good but if you did a side by side, most I don't think would notice it.

    The downside of getting paint so shiny is every single little imperfection stands out a lot more to me. I took pix but really can't tell a difference between start finish on the car. I've posted the panel pix on other sections so not polluting anymore until I discover something else with a noticeable difference.

    ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    That’s all I had time for now. Please add to this as you feel necessary and I’ll edit it as I have more time to experiment.

    Update: Last night I tried new bottle of M105 I received from Meguiar's. In using it last night it seemed to work much better. No gumming and really didn't have much of a problem with dusting. It would work for approx a minute and was gone. I really like that it works quickly. Pay attention to the section your trying to get out and work it either long enough to remove the imperfections or until it's time to add some more and start again.
    Last edited by frosty; 12-18-2009 at 08:31 AM.

  2. #2
    Super Member ICEMAN's Avatar
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    nice!!!!! ive only ever used Menzerna, and after reading a lot on this forum, im going to give 105 and 205 a try. I know i wont dislike it, so im just gonna get a 32oz bottle of each, if i like the menzerna better, ill use the megs on DD's and the Menz on nicer rides.. but i think ill like me the same, if not a lil more b/c they are cheaper!! lol
    17 Tucson | 2015 Mustang Ecoboost Premium PP | 89 Kawasaki Ninja ZX-10

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  3. #3
    Super Member unclestu's Avatar
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    Frosty this is a great thread that you started.
    I love the real time feel that you have given to it. Experience is said to be the best teacher.
    Lessons that are learned from experience are priceless so thanks for sharing yours.
    [SIGWe PIC][/SIGPIC]
    We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, therefore, is not an act, but a habit. -Aristotle
    MAY THE SHINE BE WITH YOU

  4. #4
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    Quote Originally Posted by unclestu View Post
    Frosty this is a great thread that you started.
    I love the real time feel that you have given to it. Experience is said to be the best teacher.
    Lessons that are learned from experience are priceless so thanks for sharing yours.
    No problem. Everyone on here has helped me so much so I wanted to try to share back a little.

    Thank you for the kind words.

  5. #5
    Super Member mbkite's Avatar
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    I have used 105 together with 205 and can work it longer
    Their is also a guy dave kg on DW The site from england
    look him up in show & shine he talks about all the compounds and
    different tecnique even re generation of allready spent compound.
    And he puts out 1st class work.

  6. #6
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    I can too with wool pad with the 105 & 205 seems to be friendly enough to not matter as much.

    I'm just stating what feedback I got from Rick at Meg's. So for now I've been trying to do it in that time frame. If I find any better results using it longer or shorter, I'll definitely update the post.

    Is the guy you're referring too, have a couple of you tube vids where he works a polish for 19 minutes?

  7. #7
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    Here are some photo's. I apologize up front as they are from different areas and times of the day. I had to work on the car of the evenings when it was dark under my lights. This weekend I wanted to get shots in the sun but Mother Nature didn't cooperate. I ran out of the evening when I saw a glimpse of sunshine.

    Here is a comparison section of when I started and a panel where I used the 105.



    I know the sun is glaring down but again the best I could do on this day. I drive the car so I just went ahead and got the best I could. This is after 205 and a coat of Soveran wax.

    Last edited by frosty; 12-07-2009 at 09:13 AM.

  8. #8
    Super Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    Frosty, have you heard of KBM? KBM=Kevin Brown Method. Using this method has the whole pad working for you rather than a small section on the pad. A 4" line of polish is not going to cover the whole pad and thus that line of polish will spread a little, but by no means cover the whole pad. With the KBM the whole pad is covered with 105. So every pore in the pad is filled with polish. One slow pass can clean up quite a bit of swrils.

  9. #9
    Super Member tuscarora dave's Avatar
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    Thanks for posting, I have been looking for a thread like this one actually discribing the process for using this combo.

  10. #10
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    Re: Meg's 105 & 205 processes

    Quote Originally Posted by Rsurfer View Post
    Frosty, have you heard of KBM? KBM=Kevin Brown Method. Using this method has the whole pad working for you rather than a small section on the pad. A 4" line of polish is not going to cover the whole pad and thus that line of polish will spread a little, but by no means cover the whole pad. With the KBM the whole pad is covered with 105. So every pore in the pad is filled with polish. One slow pass can clean up quite a bit of swrils.
    Hey rsurfer,

    Yes I've read some of his method. A lot too it. Like all the other good suggestions and how too's I'm trying to take what I've read or watched and apply it. I'm just posting my experiences as somebody starting with a product and what I find that works for me. Actually when I'm not doing the 4" line, (I'm not breaking out a tape measure on it.) I put two pea sized drops on each side of the pad and do what I've read Mike calls "Kiss the Paint", where I dab it in a few spots trying to moisten the entire pad. Or at least sections of the pad and the rest seems to get "wet" when I turn the machine on in the area.

    I find if I get anymore on the pad, then I have more problems. With the CCS pads, for me, more product ends up in the holes of the pad and at inopportune times like going over an uneven section, that pocket with the wax will catch and leave behind a gum like place on the paint that sometimes I have to stop and wipe off.

    Again, I'm just sharing my experiences and will adjust accordingly when I find better ways that I have verified with seeing the results myself.

    I know by your posts you have a lot more experience than me so please add anything and everything you care to this thread to help others out.

    It's good that you post this because I don't think there is a hard and stead fast, A to Z guide that suites everyone. We all have our styles and quircks. I find it better to read through other peoples comments and suggestions and use them as a loose guide to help me hone in and find what works best for my style. My hope is for others starting out, they'll see something in this thread and the can relate it to something they're doing and possibly use it to fine tune their style.

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