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  1. #11
    Director of Training Mike Phillips's Avatar
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    Re: Having issues with power lock.

    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post

    Hey guys I've searched and can't find the answer to my problem. I've used jescar poylmer plus a few times now,

    and each time I've been getting only a week or so of protection.

    felt dry and didn't bead for a wash a week later.

    Just a couple of comments...

    Water beading is a sign of surface tension and it can indicate longevity in that if water beads up after each time you wash the car and rinse, but over time you see the water beading diminishing as more time goes by and you pay attention to it after the rinse.

    Meguiar's chemist use to tell me that some of the best protecting ingredients for paint don't actually bead water very well.



    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post

    Wow I didn't think I get a response from Mike Philips, thank you for taking the time to read my post.
    I try to get to as many as I can but sorry to say I can't get to every post on this forum.

    Since my first reply to this thread I've written two more articles and I'm finishing a third after I hit the [Submit Reply] button and it's just now lunchtime.



    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post

    I personally will pressure wash all the loose dirt off, do the wheels, use the two bucket method, start at the top work my way down, and pressure wash off, then use a shami to dry. I was using meguirs gold wash up until last week when I got foam cannon.
    The above is all good and I do some of the above. It's also very thorough.


    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post

    As for built up layers of wax and such claying and polishing, should of removed it.
    Correct.

    Polishing would have obliterated any previously applied products.



    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post

    And IPA wipe down before sealing should of got rid of the oils.
    I would not have wasted time doing this but to each their own. See my article here,

    Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding



    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post

    Only thing I can think of is I putting it on thick, or it was just a tad bit cold, when I put it in 55degress. Also I didn't let get wet for 12 hours.

    A thin coat will do everything a thick coat will do while wasting less product and requiring less effort to remove. Plus it will dry faster.


    Water beading is tricky thing... years ago at Meguiar's during the NXT vs Zaino Wars Mike Pennington did some experiments with simply how water FALLS or lands on a horizontal surface and this by itself can affect water beading.

    One thing for sure that I know...

    Everyone loves how water beading looks!


    But... water beading can lead to Type II Water Spots if you not around to dry off the water, (like when it rains and your car is outside in the parking lot at work), and in my opinion, Type II Water Spots are the worst type of defect to have to remove.

    3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III



    It could be something in your process is diminishing the surface tension and this is causing the water beading to lessen.


    I use a paint coating on our Mercedes-Benz and water beads-up like crazy. I use a one-step cleaner/wax on my truck and water beads up for a few weeks and then starts to lay flat.


    Mike Phillips
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  2. #12
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    Re: Having issues with power lock.

    I meant no disrespect, I know your busy guy, I just joined the forum today and didn't know you personally responded on forums.

    As for beeding, I never thought about there being protection left when the product stops to bead, I will have to keep a closer eye on this.

    I think after reading everyone response and talking to you, im going to focus on my technique, understand each product can behave differently from the last, and that beading, is not the all be all.

  3. #13
    Senior Member BryanH's Avatar
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    Re: Having issues with power lock.

    I had the same issue last time I used PowerLock. Went through the whole clay/polish process on a car and then used CarPro Eraser before applying PowerLock. Two or three weeks later I went back to wash this car and it seemed like I had applied nothing. I followed that wash with an application of Meguiars Ultimate Quik Wax which is what I had on hand. Every few weeks I go and wash this car and have to re-apply UQW. I somewhat expect this as I don't imagine a spray detailer should last months on a car that sits outside, I'm just baffled there doesn't seem to be a base layer of PowerLock there at all. Water lays completely flat on the surface and contaminants stick to the paint quite a lot. Far cry from one of my personal cars which sits outside mere blocks away, and does ok (not amazing but ok) with Duragloss 601/105 on it.

    So far I've been most happy with Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0.

  4. #14
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    Re: Having issues with power lock.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    Just a couple of comments...

    Water beading is a sign of surface tension and it can indicate longevity in that if water beads up after each time you wash the car and rinse, but over time you see the water beading diminishing as more time goes by and you pay attention to it after the rinse.

    Meguiar's chemist use to tell me that some of the best protecting ingredients for paint don't actually bead water very well.

    Love it. I know you've posted stuff like this before Mike but I think it bears repeating. I personally could care less about water beading; the most important thing for me is how easily dirt is released from the car meaning fewer, gentler passes with the mitt = less marring.

    I think you mentioned there was a great LSP that tanked in the market because it did not show relentless water beading.

    The problem is we use water beading as the standard for LSP longevity. Is this the best benchmark? I don't know.

  5. #15
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    Re: Having issues with power lock.

    Since you are under trees all the time and tons of rain that's hard on an LSP hate to say try a different one. Perhaps someone local can give you an ounce or 2 of something that works for them and see if it holds up for you. Or else you end up with shelves and bins of Sealants that you really could never go through in a life time. Most of us have that


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #16
    SPAMMER Gilberte Platz's Avatar
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    Re: Having issues with power lock.

    Quote Originally Posted by DeanMachine View Post
    Hey guys I've searched and can't find the answer to my problem. I've used jescar poylmer plus a few times now, and each time I've been getting only a week or so of protection. I've tried putting it on thin to thick. Let cure properly. Not sure what gives. Any one got a video or photo of exactly! How thin to put it on, by hand that is.
    Done it with one and two coats.
    Last time did an IPA wipe down before sealing and still, felt dry and didn't bead for a wash a week later.

    So I got Opti seal, hopefully I'll have better luck with it, but also got a quick question about Opti seal, can it be layerd, and can I apply it in winter when it's below 50
    We've been using Opti-Seal for a number of years now, pretty much since it came out. So far, it left a nice highly reflective finish that was smooth.

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