Holograms, Swirls, Super Hard CC, Wet Sanding, the works... (Your thoughts will be appreciated while I proceed)

[hernandez.art13]

Well this has been very hard CC and I tried everything... Even for Rotary polishing, I used my Rotary, a wool pad, FG400 but in the end it seemed more aggressive then wet sanding and buffing them out because it did very little correction, and didn't want to keep digging and digging away with my Rotary.

Here is
Michael Stoop using the Rupes 21 with 5" backing plate, Meguiar's mf xtra cut and M100. (M100 was designed for Rotary but used on a DA that night, so go figure on the other member's 3M thread )





^ My cousin doing a test spot with Wool Pad, Rotary and FG400, and did almost no correction. So we decided to sand the the swirls out, and the swirls were lol














Here are some before and after to show the 1500 and 3000 sanding marks,

IMG_8276 - AutogeekOnline Gallery







^ that's 3000

and here is the job so far, but still not done yet. IMO the more difficult stuff is done now, wet sanding and buff with my Rotary polish, wool pad, etc.., glad the more advanced stuff is over


And here are the glamor shots of all the hard work done so far , also this spoiler has only gotten wet sanded, and buffed using a Rotary, wool pad and FG400, no polishing yet so I am not surprised to see the holograms. And pretty confident my Rupes 21 will easily take them out. So not to worried about that.















My question is Should I use my Rupes with an Orange cuting pad and compound next, then white polishing pad and say M205, then red waxing pad with 4500 to get that final polish.

or should I skip the orange pad and compound and just go to white pad and polish?

I don't really have experience removing holograms, so wanted to see what is advised to proceed with next, Since I already wet sanded and compounded and the paint is not metal I am not able to measure with my PTG. Also the spoiler is OEM so I am trying to remove as little as possible CC from here.

I do remember Michael Stoops saying to me months back, something like "If your not removing the swirls then your not removing the clear coat" and nothing removed the swirls but wet sanding and the other member creating steam, smoke on a Rupes and that to me was scary to see, especially on my car do I tried to avoid that route. lol

I plan on opti coating the spoiler in the end btw,

Thank you very much Mike and everyone else for reading

So this is " Project Daring" lol

[Eric M.]

If all you need to remove are holograms I find a red pad with 4500 to be sufficient.

[Mike Phillips]

My old stomping grounds... They painted the walls since I left, they use to be Meguiar's Gold.

My question is Should I use my Rupes with an Orange cuting pad and compound next, then white polishing pad and say M205, then red waxing pad with 4500 to get that final polish.

or should I skip the orange pad and compound and just go to white pad and polish?

IN most cases you should be able to remove the holograms using a polishing pad and a medium to fine cut polish.

What it takes to remove holograms depends on how deep they are and how deep they are depends upon,

• Type of compound
• Type of pad
• Technique

About technique....

A person pushing down HARD throughout the entire buffing cycle while compounding will leave deeper holograms than a person that finishes out with a light touch.

I don't really have experience removing holograms,

Holograms are a below surface paint defect. If you have removed normal swirls and scratches it's the same idea.

[hernandez.art13]

Yeah they have a picture of you in the corner. That says "Mike's Old Stomping Grounds."


So this should be pretty easy then, FG400 Finished out so well then just a polish and final polish should be good to go.

I'll do a test spot first though,

Thanks and I'll report back

[hernandez.art13]

All done... man that was easy..., The sanding and Rotary part is the more difficult part. I sanded some swirls that were missed and then proceeded to remove them with my Rotary, TufBuf wool pad and FG400.

Picture Time!







^ Buffed with my Rotary, FG400 and TufBuf wool pad.












^ Driver's side not polished yet, I wanted to take a 50/50 shot for you guys too see.





^ Drivers side all polished and final polished





^ That is the reflection shot of my IPA spray bottle after I did the IPA wipedown









^ You can see the high spot in the reflection of the light, I waited then I buffed it off with my MF towel.



^ more high spot











Sun shots with opti coat applied. The stuff is really easy to use. I suggest anyone considering coating there car that they do it.

My eyes see that Opti Coat does add gloss to the paint once it is applied. It makes it look like glass.

Thanks everyone for reading, watching and helping me out.

Mike thank you very much,

Art

[DetailKitty]

Excellent job Art!

[Eric@CherryOnTop]

What kind of car is that Art? Glad to see you got all those defects out, looks real nice with the Opti Coat.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[hernandez.art13]

Thanks guys, it's a 2003 Dodge Stratus Coupe. Yeah I really like the look Opti Coat gives.

[hernandez.art13]

oh yeah... forgot that I wanted to mention something...

So I practiced picking up the bead using my Rupes 21 while I was using the 6" backing plate. I think I might have figured out how to do it too. Not sure if anyone has mentioned doing it.

[The Critic]

I still see sanding marks in the 3rd to last picture.

You may also want to consider using something more aggressive and inexpensive than FG400 to remove your sanding marks -- such as M100. I have found that FG400 is a bit low on cut compared to most compounds.