I have some heavy industrial fallout on my 65 Dodge Dart.....help!

[65Dart]

Hi there,

My first post in this forum! I came here out of desperation AND due to the overwhelming amount of information I've been finding on various websites and advice from various people. I really need someone to point me in the right direction (and should be fairly simple!)!!

Here's the backstory on my situation (sorry for being long winded):

I drive a beautiful 1965 Dodge Dart, have had her for about 9 years. Unfortunately, I live in a rather urban area right underneath a freeway, train tracks, and the road that leads to the Port (i.e. lots of semis going by all day). I try really hard to stay on top of keeping her clean, but sometimes that's not always possible. I bought a rather expensive car cover a few years ago, so that has helped a lot, but sometimes it blows off or a storm comes in or the cover and/or the car gets too dirty for me to put it on until I give both a bath. It's an endless battle!

So, because of where I live, I have some serious industrial fallout in the paint (and it really shows due to the sea foam green/blue color of the paint). It looks like there are lots of tiny little rust spots in the paint, but in reality it's shavings from the tracks of the train up above my building. I got myself a clay bar a few years ago, and I have spent a lot of time going over the car with it, but it absolutely kills me. I can barely lift my arms for about a week after a session with it! I've managed to keep on top of the back of the car, but the hood and the roof are pretty bad. I figure I'd have to go over each area at least 3 times before I can get it looking decent.

A couple car friends have said to me "Why don't you get a buffer? WAY more effective and less physical!" I mentioned this to a guy who was doing a dent repair on my car, and he goes into his garage and whips out his Buffmaster and demonstrates a 1 foot square section of my hood. Absolutely unbelievable! WAY better results than the clay bar, and much faster. So he suggested I pick up a cheap Harbor Freight buffer, which I did, and I got some Meguiar's compound from the Napa Auto that wasn't quite what I wanted but the employee there suggested I try it. I went over the hood with the buffer, and while it did make a little difference, it wasn't nearly as effective as what the dent guy did. I e-mailed him twice to ask him what compound he used and where to get it, but he won't respond to me.

So this brings me to my big question: What is the best compound to use, and what is the best PAD to use? the Dent guy had a waffle pad on his buffer. I'm also trying to avoid doing an expensive 4 stage process, and have to buy a lot of stuff. Maybe the compound, and a wax/sealant to use afterwards....

the buffer I have is a rotary with a 7inch hook and loop backing plate.

Sorry for the long story, but I felt like it was important to give as much detail about my problem as possible to ensure getting good results!

Thank you in advance for any and all feedback!!!!

Dina

[flyinion]

Iron-X Iron X Iron Remover, CQuartz IronX, Paint Cleaner, paint decontamination is supposed to be really good at removing what it sounds like you have going on. Claying only removes the top part sticking out of the paint for the most part. The Iron-X is supposed to dissolve the contaminants out of it. Oh, as far as claying killing you arms, I've seen a pad at AG's store that you can put the clay in and use it on your buffer. However I don't know how well it works or if it can be used on a rotary or not. I'm sure some of the more knowledgeable guys will be along soon with some tips more specific for your older paint for polish & seal/wax.

[SeaJay's]

flyin is right on with the Iron-X. It will dissolve the iron particles right off the car and make claying much easier.

Wash the car as you normally would with two buckets, quality wash mitt & soap. Then rinse the car, while it's wet spray the Iron-x onto the car and let it sit for about 5 minutes (ensure your in the shade). You will see the iron-x interact with the iron particles and change color to purple. I then will rinse the car. And rinse it well. If it's as bad as you mention you may have to hit it a few times.

Personally I wouldn't polish a car that hasn't been properly decontaminated. Your going to take all those iron shavings and transfer them to your pad...then buff them right back into the paint...causing more damage. With a classic car I like to take my time and do it right the first time around.

If your unsure of what your doing call up a local detailer (or you may find one here).

[Matt S.]

In addition to what the others said, it sounds like you have a high speed rotary polisher...if you're not experienced using one of these, I strongly recommend against "learning" on your '65 Dart.

[CEE DOG]

Iron X works great and saves a ton of time!

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...cts-faq-s.html


.

[65Dart]

thank you very much for recommending that Iron X stuff. I have never heard of this, which is quite surprising. So, after I use the Iron X, Do I HAVE to use the Clay bar or can I use my buffer with a compound? oh and I have used the buffer already and I seemed to do okay with it (and I'm well aware about not burning the paint, etc).... Is there anything in particular I should use in conjunction with this?

thanks!!!!
dina

[erock]

[QUOTE=SeaJay's;553104]

Personally I wouldn't polish a car that hasn't been properly decontaminated. Your going to take all those iron shavings and transfer them to your pad...then buff them right back into the paint...causing more damage. With a classic car I like to take my time and do it right the first time around.
QUOTE]


Couldnt agree more!!

[opie_7afe]

im wondering how claybarring is making your arms hurt, remember your not sanding or polishing with a claybar, clay bar is to remove above surface bonded contaminants, iron particles are mostly embedded into the paint, get some iron-x then clay again, you dont even need alot of pressure to claybar i use about the same amount of pressure when i wash my ride which is very little.decontaminate the paint with iron-x or wolf chemicals decon gel. then clay, then if needed polish it out. people make a rotary out to be worse then what they are, if you keep it moving on not too fast of a speed, not alot of pressure,and stay away from sharp/hard edges then its fairly hard to go through the clearcoat. i noticed wool pads have more of a danger of going through the clearcoat as the fibers can hit the edge in the gaps of the body panels. however i would practice on a scrap hood first to get the feel of it. and dont use a compound if it is not needed, if you just have light swirl marks just go with a finishing pad and something like m205 or mirror glaze #9. if you dont feel comfortable polishing then dont do it with a rotary or sell your rotary and get a D/A polisher. good luck with your ride.

[65Dart]

im wondering how claybarring is making your arms hurt, remember your not sanding or polishing with a claybar, clay bar is to remove above surface bonded contaminants, iron particles are mostly embedded into the paint, get some iron-x then clay again, you dont even need alot of pressure to claybar i use about the same amount of pressure when i wash my ride which is very little.decontaminate the paint with iron-x or wolf chemicals decon gel. then clay, then if needed polish it out. people make a rotary out to be worse then what they are, if you keep it moving on not too fast of a speed, not alot of pressure,and stay away from sharp/hard edges then its fairly hard to go through the clearcoat. i noticed wool pads have more of a danger of going through the clearcoat as the fibers can hit the edge in the gaps of the body panels. however i would practice on a scrap hood first to get the feel of it. and dont use a compound if it is not needed, if you just have light swirl marks just go with a finishing pad and something like m205 or mirror glaze #9. if you dont feel comfortable polishing then dont do it with a rotary or sell your rotary and get a D/A polisher. good luck with your ride.

It's making my arms and shoulders hurt cause I'm really rubbing the car with it....these little rusty spots are NOT easy to get out....trust me! and after doing it for an hour or two it really starts to take its toll!

I'm definitely going to purchase the Iron X, and also probably a waffle pad for the buffer, now I just need to know what compound to use....maybe I'll try using what I already have after applying the IronX, and see what happens.....thanks!

[embolism]

iron x is the way to go for sure

I would dry the car first before spraying as this will ensure that the product is not diluted too much. As long as the car is in the shade, you can let the iron x dwell for at least 5 min. Then take a damp mf and gentle agitate the iron x on each panel before rinsing it well. Wear gloves as you do this.

Once the entire car is rinsed, your claying should go much faster as you are only left to deal with organic contaminants bonded to the paint.