WG Finishing Glaze

[Bunky]

i finally had a chance to use my WG Finishing Glaze as I was prepping the car for the winter season. The labeling on the bottle says use a finishing pad (LC black?) and it is a pure polish.

I tested in on two panels. I placed 3 pea sized blobs on the pad and worked in multiple directions slowly. It never went clear. I did at least 4 passes in each direction (NS/EW) running at speed 4 on the UDM, 5-in black LC CCS finishing pad using light pressure (about 7-10lbs - more to keep the pad flat). I saw very light dusting.

After rechecking the AG web site, it looks like it should not really go clear. True?

It did not remove some light swirls that I was checking on how much correction it could do. The paint surface was in decent shape so I did not see much gloss improvement but more what you would expect from a paint cleaner.

So, did I work it long enough or is it like Optimum to work it until you are happy. Did I use the right pad, speed, etc. How does WG compare to 106FF or 106FA? I was looking for slightly more cut.

Comments?

[ScottB]

It is indeed a finishing polish and much like Nano polish. It does go quite light but some light buffing needed to remove final product once flashed from original liquid form.

[charliehaley]

Try stepping up to a white pad with it. Just keep in mind that it is a finishing polish and is not intended for anything more than the lightest swirl and haze removal.

[Bunky]

Thanks.

The reason I ask about 106FF/FA is that I was wondering if I needed something between WG TSR and FG. Using the AG Menzerna cut chart, I assume TSR is cut 3.5 and FG was around cut 2.5. I expected more but I only had a chance to do two tries before having to do other things.

[ScottB]

I have been told and seen the two Wolfgang 3.0 polishes work the same as Menzerna SIP/Nano combo.

[Bunky]

I ended up using the WG TSR to see what it could do. I had started with a white pad but I did not really see great results so I switched to a LC Green (the one between orange and white) and it really worked. I guess the paint is harder than I thought but got about 90% of the scratches and swirls out.

With TSR and the green pad (less of an issue with white), I had some difficulty finding the right amount of polish since I got dusting. If I used less than 3 small blobs, it just did not seem to spread evenly. I am wondering if I need to clean the pads after a few panels.

With the Finishing Glaze, I was using way too much (instructions say 3 small stripes) but I ended up just needing a pea size blob per section to get it to almost dry to a slight haze. If I could swipe it fairly cleanly (oily if not), I considered it worked down. My untrained eyes and not great lighting did not see a significant difference after using the FG after TSR. TSR alone seemed LSP ready.

Long day.

[Bunky]

I went back and did a search here and Autopia. I guess I missed the suggestion to spritz the pad with water when using WG TSR to keep down the dust. I think the pad was clogging up and that was the source of most of my dusting issues. It did seem to work consistently despite the dust...never more than 4 to 5 passes using a normal slow polishing rate before TSR seems to dry out.

[Matt S.]

The polish won't be 100% clear, but will be noticeably transparent when it is fully worked. A good example of this is in Blkyukon's video here - [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yht1uHJLNlQ]YouTube - Flex XC 3401 VRG vs. Porter Cable 7424[/video]

As mentioned, 106/SIP will have the same cutting properties as FG/TSR, but longer working times will result in a slightly finer finish. This is probably why you saw TSR end up LSP-ready, although on softer finishes it will leave a noticeable haze.

[robb01]

Thanks for posting the vid, I can see what you mean