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  1. #11
    Super Member fly07sti's Avatar
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    Quote Originally Posted by BSoares View Post
    That's why some detailers are against priming the pad. If you watch any of the Esoteric videos you'll see that Todd says no priming is done at Esoteric. He starts with 3 dots and that's it.
    I essentially do the same as Todd. Put 3-4 dots and work a small spot for about 30 seconds. This primes the pad without over saturating it. Especially true with Menz polishes.

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  3. #12
    Super Member Paul A.'s Avatar
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    I "X" my pad at first and then 3-4 dabs of polish for the next sections. I follow Mike P's idea of "kissing the paint" by touching the pad to the paint within the work area several times. The section then has some X's or dots of polish scattered around and a slight lift of the pad to swing by and add it in while I'm working the section.

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  5. #13
    Super Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul A. View Post
    I "X" my pad at first and then 3-4 dabs of polish for the next sections. I follow Mike P's idea of "kissing the paint" by touching the pad to the paint within the work area several times. The section then has some X's or dots of polish scattered around and a slight lift of the pad to swing by and add it in while I'm working the section.
    ^^^This^^^
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

  6. #14
    Super Member Mantilgh's Avatar
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    Not that I have much experience, but I too feel that I get too much product on the pad when buttering to prime them.

    For a while now I've been using a swirl technique. I set my polisher pad up on my work platform and spin the pad with one hand and apply a very thin line of polish starting from just off the center then move towards the outside edge. I do it as lightly as I can trying not to force it into the pad and leave the center 1"-1 1/2" bare.

    For my first application of a product to the pad I'll keep the gap between the lines of the swirl reasonably tight, like 3/16" gap. Then I'll lightly set it on the paint, lift and give the pad a little spin a tap back down, and maybe another time or two in the same spot. Then lowest speed to spread it out over the working section, then I get to work with my slow passes.

    When I add more product for the next pass, after cleaning the pad with a towel, I make the gap between my swirl lines closer to a 1/2" while still keeping a fairly thin line of product.

    I never add any directly to the center 1"-1 1/2" because the they tend to migrate there on their own, and because early on I would have problems with over saturation and did collapse the center of a few flat pads.


    Here again, not too much experience, but I don't think there's going to be much of an issue of dry buffing even with the no prime/dot method. I would think the pad face would quickly be covered with a small amount of product once the machine is turned on and the mild marring that could possibly be produced would be quickly removed.

    I personally do not like the dot method, nor taking the dotted pad pressing all over the working area. To me it wastes some product by forcing it into the pad just giving you saturated dot spots on the pad, and I'm not sure I get the point kissing the pad all over before turning it on. There's going to be enough product on the pad to cover the working area on the low speed/fast arm movement first spreading pass. Maybe this is required with the dot method because of the product is concentrated to such a small area of the pad.

    The KISS technique does make sense to me if you are applying a LSP to a large area where you would like to pick up a little extra product as you go.

    When comparing used pads after using both methods, I like how uniform the dispersal of product is across the face of the pad with my swirl meth as opposed to the still noticeable saturated dots with the dot method.

    Does it really make a difference? Probably not, but it's what works and what makes sense to me.
    ____________
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  7. #15
    Super Member PaulMys's Avatar
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Mantilgh View Post
    Not that I have much experience, but I too feel that I get too much product on the pad when buttering to prime them.

    For a while now I've been using a swirl technique. I set my polisher pad up on my work platform and spin the pad with one hand and apply a very thin line of polish starting from just off the center then move towards the outside edge. I do it as lightly as I can trying not to force it into the pad and leave the center 1"-1 1/2" bare.

    For my first application of a product to the pad I'll keep the gap between the lines of the swirl reasonably tight, like 3/16" gap. Then I'll lightly set it on the paint, lift and give the pad a little spin a tap back down, and maybe another time or two in the same spot. Then lowest speed to spread it out over the working section, then I get to work with my slow passes.

    When I add more product for the next pass, after cleaning the pad with a towel, I make the gap between my swirl lines closer to a 1/2" while still keeping a fairly thin line of product.

    I never add any directly to the center 1"-1 1/2" because the they tend to migrate there on their own, and because early on I would have problems with over saturation and did collapse the center of a few flat pads.


    Here again, not too much experience, but I don't think there's going to be much of an issue of dry buffing even with the no prime/dot method. I would think the pad face would quickly be covered with a small amount of product once the machine is turned on and the mild marring that could possibly be produced would be quickly removed.

    I personally do not like the dot method, nor taking the dotted pad pressing all over the working area. To me it wastes some product by forcing it into the pad just giving you saturated dot spots on the pad, and I'm not sure I get the point kissing the pad all over before turning it on. There's going to be enough product on the pad to cover the working area on the low speed/fast arm movement first spreading pass. Maybe this is required with the dot method because of the product is concentrated to such a small area of the pad.

    The KISS technique does make sense to me if you are applying a LSP to a large area where you would like to pick up a little extra product as you go.

    When comparing used pads after using both methods, I like how uniform the dispersal of product is across the face of the pad with my swirl meth as opposed to the still noticeable saturated dots with the dot method.

    Does it really make a difference? Probably not, but it's what works and what makes sense to me.
    Sounds like a good method. But the most important thing is that it works for YOU.

    That's pretty much the goal, and yet another method for someone to try.

    That's why AGO is great IMO.
    It is no coincidence that man's best friend cannot talk.

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  9. #16
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Paul A. View Post
    I "X" my pad at first and then 3-4 dabs of polish for the next sections. I follow Mike P's idea of "kissing the paint" by touching the pad to the paint within the work area several times. The section then has some X's or dots of polish scattered around and a slight lift of the pad to swing by and add it in while I'm working the section.
    i do that to

  10. #17
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    Quote Originally Posted by Mantilgh View Post
    Not that I have much experience, but I too feel that I get too much product on the pad when buttering to prime them.

    For a while now I've been using a swirl technique. I set my polisher pad up on my work platform and spin the pad with one hand and apply a very thin line of polish starting from just off the center then move towards the outside edge. I do it as lightly as I can trying not to force it into the pad and leave the center 1"-1 1/2" bare.

    For my first application of a product to the pad I'll keep the gap between the lines of the swirl reasonably tight, like 3/16" gap. Then I'll lightly set it on the paint, lift and give the pad a little spin a tap back down, and maybe another time or two in the same spot. Then lowest speed to spread it out over the working section, then I get to work with my slow passes.

    When I add more product for the next pass, after cleaning the pad with a towel, I make the gap between my swirl lines closer to a 1/2" while still keeping a fairly thin line of product.

    I never add any directly to the center 1"-1 1/2" because the they tend to migrate there on their own, and because early on I would have problems with over saturation and did collapse the center of a few flat pads.


    Here again, not too much experience, but I don't think there's going to be much of an issue of dry buffing even with the no prime/dot method. I would think the pad face would quickly be covered with a small amount of product once the machine is turned on and the mild marring that could possibly be produced would be quickly removed.

    I personally do not like the dot method, nor taking the dotted pad pressing all over the working area. To me it wastes some product by forcing it into the pad just giving you saturated dot spots on the pad, and I'm not sure I get the point kissing the pad all over before turning it on. There's going to be enough product on the pad to cover the working area on the low speed/fast arm movement first spreading pass. Maybe this is required with the dot method because of the product is concentrated to such a small area of the pad.

    The KISS technique does make sense to me if you are applying a LSP to a large area where you would like to pick up a little extra product as you go.

    When comparing used pads after using both methods, I like how uniform the dispersal of product is across the face of the pad with my swirl meth as opposed to the still noticeable saturated dots with the dot method.

    Does it really make a difference? Probably not, but it's what works and what makes sense to me.
    i do the butter thing and then small dots and i do the kiss technique. The only change is now im wiping any excess of the pad after i hit it with pad conditioner and butter it. I think its to hard to butter a pad without using excess product. it wastes a little but the first buff is much better then trying to deal with all the product used to butter

  11. #18
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    Re: Question on the finer points of polishing paint

    How about buffing the polish off especially the final step I'll use a few towels and take it off gently like I'm finishing it off by hand how do you guys do it?

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