Possible damage to my 3401

[PaulMys]

Well, no attack or anything, but what makes you think that paying a higher price for a tool gives you an excuse to use it incorrectly? If I pay $50 for a Snap-On screwdriver, then I should be able to use it as a pry bar, ice-pick, or hammer? I'll never understand this reasoning

Hoyt66 did say "...my error was laying to hard on the polisher and not evenly either....". Which by his own admission was causing the backing plate to bend. How does anybody see this as proper use of the polisher? No matter how much you paid for the polisher, if you are bending the backing plate, it will create a problem. It is to the 3401's credit that it continued to turn with that kind of pressure applied to it on my mind. Says a lot about the motor just having the power to do just about anything.

Just read this entire thread again. Now I see where he says that he used it unevenly.

My "criticism" was based on the fact that I thought he was just using the unit hard all day long. (a.k.a "Rode hard, and put away wet")

This being said, with my understanding that the tool wasn't used as intended, but just for a sustained and rigorous period and failed, was my original posts' intention.

[Black Lab]

Just read this entire thread again. Now I see where he says that he used it unevenly.

My "criticism" was based on the fact that I thought he was just using the unit hard all day long. (a.k.a "Rode hard, and put away wet")

This being said, with my understanding that the tool wasn't used as intended, but just for a sustained and rigorous period and failed, was my original posts' intention.

No worries, I almost missed the part about it being misused too. I like my Flex polishers a lot, but I'm no apologist for them. I agree with what I think you were saying. For the money, this is a professional tool, and should hold up to being used as such.
As a mechanic, I've just seen so many people who do actually have the belief that if it's expensive, it should be able to take unusual abuse. I guess it's just a pet peeve of mine

[PaulMys]

No worries, I almost missed the part about it being misused too. I like my Flex polishers a lot, but I'm no apologist for them. I agree with what I think you were saying. For the money, this is a professional tool, and should hold up to being used as such.
As a mechanic, I've just seen so many people who do actually have the belief that if it's expensive, it should be able to take unusual abuse. I guess it's just a pet peeve of mine

Mechanic myself. Loved your "Snap-On screwdriver used as a pry bar" analogy.

[VISITOR]

off topic... Black Lab & PaulMys (both of you being mechanics), any good tips on buying a used car other than checking the carfax, body lines, etc,?

[PaulMys]

off topic... Black Lab & PaulMys (both of you being mechanics), any good tips on buying a used car other than checking the carfax, body lines, etc,?

Better take BL's opinion. I'm a marine mechanic Allen.

But, if it were me.. check underneath the car. Check ball joints, shocks, signs of leakage from rear end seals, rear main seals, tranny, inspect the U/CV joints, Check the tranny fluid for anything other than a dark red color, and smell it for a "burnt smell".

Outwardly, check for ill-fitting body joints (fender to hood, etc.). Not all things (IMO) show up on those CarFax things.

Ask for service records. Look at the tires. Uneven wear? Wear on the outer tread like the owner didn't give a crap whether the tires were low?

Stuff like that.......

[Black Lab]

off topic... Black Lab & PaulMys (both of you being mechanics), any good tips on buying a used car other than checking the carfax, body lines, etc,?

OK, I'm sure I'm gonna leave stuff out but...CarFax only works if they report it. If you narrow down to a car you want, the best thing is to bring it to a mechanic you trust if possible. Otherwise, I always bring a scanner with to check for codes and if everything is running within spec. Look for leaks under the car, under the hood and run it on pavement. Some people show cars on grass to hide leaks. Check the oil. Smell for antifreeze under the hood. Check the antifreeze for color and oil contamination, and the level. Pull the trans dipstick and check that it's a reddish color usually, not dark brown. Smell the trans fluid. If it smells burnt, run away. I like to use a combustion leak tester. It checks for CO2 (engine exhaust) in the coolant which could be a bad head, head gasket, or cracked block. You should be able to rent one from a parts store. It's an easy test to do in the field.
Get down on the ground with a flashlight and check for rust, damage, etc. I almost bought a low mile Town Car until I looked under it and saw the rust creeping up the rockers. Drive it with radio off and listen for unusual noise from the suspension, differential, motor, etc.
Don't be pressured into anything! "Oh, it's just a 5 minute fix." Sure. Then why didn't you fix it already?
If you can bring someone with you, do it. I never go alone. I may be a mechanic, but I know better mechanics than me. They can catch stuff that I may miss. And finally, look the person in the eye and ask about the maintenance history of the car. If they're gonna lie to you, make them look you in the eyes.