2008 Mercedes E63 AMG Black Paint Correction Long Write up heavy on Pics

[Velocitybts]

Mercedes-Benz E63 AMG 2008 80k Miles Paint Correction
This is my personal vehicle

Inspection:
Initial inspection showed the paint had typical marring and swirls, and normal scratches for a 80k vehicle. I measured paint levels and concluded no exterior paintwork had been done prior to my receiving it. Due to it being my vehicle, I wanted flawless so planned a 3-4 step correction. If you find deep marks (RIDs), dents, questionable areas remember to take pictures immediately and document the damage or issue, so that can be discussed with the customer up front, and it protects you from the customer returning asking how you damaged his vehicle. Members have had this issue to their vehicles before and posted threads.

Planned project for this vehicle. Paint Correction, paint calipers, correct wheel wells, remove bumpers and rockers and have painted, add carbon fiber lip and diffuser. Initial pictures below.







Test Panels:
My next step is working a test area, it is ALWAYS the top of the trunk. If something goes wrong that is the easiest place and cheapest place to re-spray. Typical Detailer Rules say Lower rear quarter panel is the least likely area a customer would see on a daily basis, so if you messed something up and there was time he would be driving it before the repair, the customer does not keep on seeing the damage and reminding him why he won't ever return to you for work. Keep that in mind when working a high-end vehicle, test the least visible, smallest panel that is separate from the rest of the car. The bumper areas are NOT a good indication of how a product might react to the work being done. It is plastic. So choose a nice area and try your main go to product and pad selection, first going least aggressive ie… Polishing light cutting pad w/ SF4000 or your polish of choice with the least cut. If you need to go into it further (which you will of course at least somewhere on the vehicle) start at the next least aggressive, ie….Polishing pad w/ FG400 or M105 or D300 (speaking of MF pads, you can start with the polishing pad and work your want into most aggressive for those also, same process, different materials).

Most people typically match their pads and products right off the bat. Think about what you are doing to achieve the result you actually want. A light cutting pad can be used with any polish or compound. The combination will decide the level of cut you will receive. So as an example, tangerine Hydro pad with Rupes Diamond polish will cut significantly less than the tangerine Hydro with Rupes Keramilk or Quartz. (D300, FG400). You can also lessen the severity of cutting by using SF4000 with a blue Hydro cut pad rather than the D300, FG400 types. Keep this in mind when you cut or polish, so when you need to only lightly cut or heavily polish you can also vary your pads to products instead of buying specific cutting or polishing products specific to pads. I don’t think most people think this way, and you can achieve great results without taking off half the clear coat (CC) and leaving some for the next person down the road.

Products vs. machines:
I typically use a Flex 3401, GG 3”, and the new PE-8 Rotary for 1” and 2” pads. Mike Philips has repeatedly gone over combinations with these machines and the threads written about them constantly people try to use different combinations than what is suggested and issues arise. It is highly recommended when using any 3401 to use the 4” backing plate and the LC Hybrid Pads in 5” size. They are specifically manufactured to work with and produce exceptional results. You will have less aggravation, and spend less money in the future. Meguire’s Micro Fiber (MF) discs worked great also, just seems on some paints the polishing MF Disc leaves a tad bit of micro marring so I like to finish with a foam pad. Think also about the quantity of pads you will use. Most people use no where near enough pads on a vehicle. Key to properly making the most of your work is to change out pads very regularly. Use a pad for each 1.5 panels. This will achieve the results you want, without making extra work. Clean pads = proper results.

This is a list of products used. Whole vehicle took unknown hours for a 3-4-step paint correction and all the other re-conditioning. (I have done this work over a 6 week time period) Vehicle came out better than new, and there was very little RIDs on the car when finished. Due to the hardness of Merc paint, I had to switch up on different panels, pads and compounds, to get the finish right. Some panels just needed two separate passes to get the initial correction to the level I was happy with. Then the Polishing was done in two stages, just to get that jeweled look as much as possible.

Products:
Menzerna FG400 @Autogeek.net
Menzerna SF4000 @Autogeek.net
Rupes Diamond @Autogeek.net
Modesta PA-01 Glass Primer
22ple Glass Coating PRO Level @DetailedImage
22ple Glass coating for Wheels and Metal @DetailedImage

Pads:
LC Hybrid Orange 5” @Autogeek.net
LC Hybrid White 5” @Autogeek.net
LC Hybrid Yellow 5” @Autogeek.net
LC Hybrid assortment 3” (Yellow cutting, white polishing) @Autogeek.net
Flex 1” Orange and green, Flex 2” Orange and Green

Soaps and Interior Products:
• Chemical Guys Honeydew @Autogeek.net
• AMMO Plum @ammonyc.com
• AMMO Lather @ammonyc.com
• Nanoskin 6” Light Disc @Autogeek.net
• Leatherique 2 Step Process @Autogeek.net
• P21s Wash

Tools:
Flex 3401 DA @Autogeek.net
Flex PE-8 Rotary @Autogeek.net
Griot’s Garage 3” DA polisher @Autogeek.net
Wool Wash Mitt @Autogeek.net
Microfiber towels from @Autogeek.net
Metro Sidekick Blaster @Autogeek.net
Halogen Spotlights for correction light (I turn off all lights and use this light when doing correction work) (switching over to 55w LEDS)
McCullough Steam Cleaner










The wash:
I started with the wheels first. (Actually removed all 4 for this process and the ease of glassing the barrels of them also) I used AMMO Plum iron deposit remover, let sit for 3-4 min and then used a tire brush and then a microfiber mitt to get into the interior of the rims. Then Hand washed with AMMO Wheel Soap the rest of the tires, rims, and wheel wells and suspension. I then rinsed off the wheels and wells, then rinsed off the whole vehicle to loosen any large dirt particles. I then used the two-bucket method with Chemical Guys Honeydew Soap and a Wool mitt and started on the roof. In between each panel I rinsed and re-soaked the wool mitt to lessen the chances of contaminating the next panel with particles. Then rinsed vehicle.

The clay bar:
After initial wash I used the Nanoskin 6” light Disc synthetic Clay using CG Honeydew Car Soap as lubricant. Then rewashed vehicle.

Drying:
Dried the vehicle using the Metro Sidekick Blaster to eliminate any chance of marring the finish any more than it was already. I do this no matter what anyway, takes a lot longer, but in the end there is no chance of marring the finish and all the water is out of the cracks and crevices.

Compounding:
Test panels showed the Flex 3401 DA w/ LC Hybrid Orange pads with the FG400 worked great. I also used the FG400 quite a bit with the GG3” and yellow 3” Hybrid foam pads due to the lower power. I used the Flex PE-08 Rotary with the orange cutting pads for intricate areas like around the trunk and license plate holder. Thin panels along top of doors and mirrors. I typically will use a Rotary in these areas to cut and polish, then go over it with the GG3” and SF4000 to make certain there are no holograms.

After each section was finished, the Brinkman was used to inspect for any heavy swirls or marring that the polishing steps would not remove. Most panels were pretty perfect with only very small and minor swirls in a few places. The Menzerna FG400 finishes really well, and was again thoroughly pleased with it.

Polishing:
All the fine polishes had long working times and removed easily when finished with the section. Typically worked a 2 by 2 section to maximize work area.
Next was a whole car polishing using the Menzerna SF4000 Polish with a White Hybrid Pad using the Flex on a setting of 4 for pass 2-3 and 3 for pass 4-7. The GG 3” was a white pad on setting 5-6 for small and tight areas.

When using the PE-8 with a polishing pad, I used the SF4000 with the green Flex pads. Spread product on setting 1 and polished it up on a setting of 2.5.

Next was the Rupes Diamond super fine polish, (I only did this step due to the time I had on my hands, and the desire to make it absolutely perfect) using a Black Hybrid Pad, on Flex setting of 2-3 with 5 lbs. pressure for pass 1-2 to diminish the abrasives quickly so passes 3-8 were Jeweling the CC. GG 3” was used on 4-5 with no pressure and used a no cut Black pad. This step is not necessary but I felt it increased the level of gloss by diminishing the very micro marring left by the white pads and SF4000. This would likely be totally unnecessary on any color except black.






Checking the Work:
All Panels were inspected for any swirls or marks, and each one found, a piece of tape was used to mark it. 9-10 spots were found and re-touched up using the white then black pads and appropriate polish. Then another inspection was done, and I concluded all possible scratches were removed. Typical Rock Chips in the front Valance, bumper, hood (Bonnet for the UK’ers), and right behind the front wheels on the lower rocker panels, were still there. Other than those spots the paint came out absolutely perfect. Plans for this car were to have the Front, Rear bumpers and the two lower rockers painted due to heavy scratches and massive sand blasting on the front bumper and lower rockers.

The Coating:
I have run into fine scratches in the past during the wash phase after polishing to rid the surface of any oils or polishing agents. Each time I try and come up with a way to NOT panel wipe, or run any type of product on the surface. I have finally gone to Pressure washing the paint and all the seals and cracks, then spraying P21s directly on the finish and rinsing the car off. This seems to clean the surface without me actually touching it.

Again the paint was inspected to make sure there were no scratches, RIDs, or marring that could be removed. Due to using the Modesta line of coating also in the past, I had a bottle of primer that I looked at the chemical composition and it was so similar to the 22ple that I thought I would try to use it the same way but with the 22ple glass.

I primed the vehicle by using a black no cut 3” pad on the GG3” and wiped off carefully 4 min later. Then waited the recommended 3 hours so the primer can cure.

I then coated the paint using 22ple pro glass coating. The coating goes on smooth (used a cut up foam black pad for application), and used a cross hatch pattern to reduce any high spots. Waited a full 5 min due to high humidity levels and started to remove with one MF towel, and then wiped clean with a second MF towel. This coating increases its gloss levels over time while it is curing. I was able to allow the vehicle to sit in the garage for 3 days. (total cure is supposed to be 5 days, however after 24hrs you can drive it without wet weather, give it at least 3 days before the wet weather). I also glassed the door jambs to make those areas easier to clean in the future.

The wax:
I waited one week then I decided to top the coating with a Polish Angel product. This is a special PA non retail product made specifically to top the 22ple coating. They added some of the same properties to the carnauba that are in the glass coatings so they will crosslink correctly. PA carnaubas are typically a paste carnauba that applies smooth (GG 3” black pad setting 2) and removes just as easy. I thought I noticed slight gloss level increase, however probably just me wanting it there. The surface feel did slick up some.

Windows:
Each window was Razor Bladed to remove any contamination. Then all surfaces were coated with GTechniq and buffed clear. (22ple just introduced a surface coating that will be tried next. Probably another similar version to GTechniq like most the others.

Leather:
All Leather and door panels were Steam cleaned. The Leatherique 2 step process was used on the front two seats and just the one step maintainer was used for the rear.

Interior:
Only several spots on the carpets needed cleaning, so I used the AMMO Lather and a brush to blot out the needed areas, then re-vacuumed the vehicle and put stripes with the brush into the carpet. All dash surfaces and center console areas were wiped down using AMMO Lather sprayed on a mf towel. ALL wood pieces were treated to a Menzerna SF4000 polish with a Microfiber pad, and then buffed to an incredible shine. (Most treated wood interiors have a CC the same as the outside paint, so can be treated the same) Then took the 22ple trim glass coating and applied it to all CC wood trim.

Wheel Wells:

I did a wheel well care thread here that covers the work in this area. I have found on personal cars Plasti Dip black with PD Glossifier works wonders on the liners. The finish is perfect and darkens up the wheel well area the way it is supposed to be. Future cleaning has been simple so far and they look just as good 3 weeks later as the day I sprayed them. The Liners were completely removed to do this work. This allowed me to completely clean the inner wells and all suspension parts. You wouldn’t believe how dusty and dirty this area gets.





Wheels:
Typically I do not remove the wheels to clean them or the wheel wells. I move the front around to get the wells, but brush out the inside of the rims. (Do not want the risk of a lug breaking, or a scratch on the rim from a lug, or ultimately a rim loosening up, when it’s a Bentley, Porsche, BMW, Merc, or other exotic) too much risk.

Each rim was coated with 22ple wheel glass coating. This includes the barrel of the rim also. Makes it so easy to clean off brake dust, and all you have to use is soap and water from now one. No more APC use for me. Also keeps the wheels looking cleaner for longer and increases the gloss. I did polish up a few areas with the GG 3” and SF4000 before rewashing glassing.

Finished:
Vehicle was finished at this time. I nit picked the whole car with a thorough inspection. At this time I normally walk the owner through a wash and drying process, so he can minimize the micro marring during future washes. Several customers have complained that in the past, after a detail was done the car would be slick and perfect. But after a wash they cannot feel the slickness as much and could see scratches. I explained that more than likely the Fillers used in a lot of glazes and lower level products had been left to fill the micro scratches. A IPA wipe down eliminates the fillers, before the last step product was applied which wasn’t done in their previous dealings. Also I would wash it with them so he can see that after a wash and driving the vehicle would still look just as nice and perfect as the condition it arrived in. I set them up with a pdf file for appropriate products to maintain the finish and for washing and drying the vehicle. Rule of thumb 30% of scratches and micro marring come from the washing of a vehicle. 70% of the scratches and micro marring come from the drying of a vehicle. I always try to use a Metro Sidekick Blaster to dry with to eliminate that percentage and try to talk customers into purchasing one. However when they don’t want to do that, I stress that nothing but a MF drying towel purchased from a high quality store, will help prevent those marks. I also suggest using AMMO Hydrate, due to the lubricity that it creates with the mf towels. Works well.

I hope this write up helps some people. I try for perfection, but still years in I have a lot to learn and try to do so everyday. This is not a Job for me, this is just a perfection hobby that I do on mostly Higher end vehicles. I thought that working in some suggestions and processes might help newer detailers and explain what and why various processes take place. I actually ran into issues taking pictures with this car. The Paint is now so perfectly black that even under direct sunlight the camera doesn’t like it. I literally took 48 pictures just to get the following few. Some came out too dark, some a little blurry all because of the paint. It truly came out amazing and much better than my last E63 black one. In all the pictures the sun was shining on the paint. There were NO shadows on the car and you can see how on some parts like the wheels the light is bright, but the paint next to it is just black. I always try and get pictures to actually show the correction work, instead of how people show pics under fluorescents or shade which doesn’t show the quality. Only sunlit pictures show the true work done. I am pleased with these results. Comments are welcome ☺

[Cvjeticanin]

Nice work!

[builthatch]

excellent write up.

may i suggest ONR for the wipe down. apparently doesn't interfere with bonding of coating but should provide ample buffer to prevent marring.

[whavens]

Great write up. Thanks for taking the time to go into as much detail as you did. Wonderful job on that AMG.

Sent from my KFSOWI using Tapatalk

[allenk4]

Do you have any Before pictures or shots during the process (50/50's).

I am very interested to see some 50/50 of the "Black Hybrid Pad, on Flex setting of 2-3 with 5 lbs. pressure for pass 1-2 to diminish the abrasives quickly so passes 3-8 were Jeweling the CC."

What did you decide to go with treating the trim around the windows?

[haris300]

Superb work! Good stuff on the procedure explanation and product info.

[Velocitybts]

Do you have any Before pictures or shots during the process (50/50's).

I am very interested to see some 50/50 of the "Black Hybrid Pad, on Flex setting of 2-3 with 5 lbs. pressure for pass 1-2 to diminish the abrasives quickly so passes 3-8 were Jeweling the CC."

What did you decide to go with treating the trim around the windows?

I did not as far as I remember do any 50/50 shots on this one. Its weird, the paint was not swirled out horribly ( the dealer old school guys did rotary the car before I got it) but the finish had many scratches. After doing it correctly, i.e..... fg400 and orange pad the finish looked exactly like it was supposed to. Then after a white pad with the sf4000 the finish looked absolutely perfect. Almost. I tried to get pictures of what was left to send to Mike and Larry at AmmoNYC to see what those guys would recommend, but the pictures would not take. Issue was under direct light the finish was flawless. Once you put the light at a angle and looked really close it seemed the black finish had light marring inside the clear coat. Funny, I was the only person who could see this. Figures LOL. I could not get rid of it almost like it was in the CC. I diminished it by the black pad and Rupes Diamond polish. Still there and driving me nuts, but gotta get over it.

Honestly, the finish is amazing. I have PC'd over 8 black cars. NONE of them came out like this one. The paint looks like really polished black paint just walking by. Looking closer the black is almost endless. iPhone 6 won't take pictures hardly at all. Only if the sun is overhead will it take any decent ones of it. All other its like the black soaks up all the light.

Trim, was cleaned perfectly numerous times and when I applied a coat of the 22ple I just coated the trim lines too. Really nothing honestly could be done. A silicone type shine would help some, but be more of a pain. Its only when the light is shining at certain angles is where I don't like the look, but yes I am being picky.

[Tato]

Excellent write-up and work, I enjoyed (and learned) a lot reading your thread.

Thanks for sharing,

Kind Regards.

[Sizzle Chest]

Nice write up! Thanks for taking the time to document this. Oh...and it came out beautiful! Great work!

[Velocitybts]

I am glad members can learn from my write-ups. I am still learning as I go, as I assume most of us do. With all the new products and techniques its a constant battle.

1. Carpro Hydro2 is a new interesting product I just got and tried out. Learned really quick. DO NOT let it stand on the wheel/panel for any time. Immediately rinse it off. Adding the product heavier makes no difference. Just spray correctly diluted product on the area you want and rinse immediately. Make sure all areas around where you sprayed it are rinsed heavily also. Overspray happens. If you are doing a whole car, start at the top and work your way around, spraying basically the whole car every time to make sure there is nothing left to sit on the paint.

I used it on the wheel wells and rims. No point in letting my coating do all the work, might as well try this out. So I did. I guess happy, just adds a hydrophobic coating whatever its sprayed on.