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Old thread, but unanswered question. When the manufacturer was asked how to pronounce it, they had an answer something like, "we never decided how to pronounce it". With that said, I've heard most pronounce it as individual letters...22-P-L-E. The name was more about the symbols the letters created, than what they spelled.
Take a bottle of it (or a web image of it), and hold it up to a mirror. The reflection spells out the word, "glass".
You got it!
I discussed this in another article on the Detailed Image Ask A Pro Blog...
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/...19237a7e_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5585/...436c3bc0_b.jpg
Let me first state that I'm a wax guy with verrry limited coating/sealant experience. I've only used System X which I loved, but it's no longer available (it's still beading & shining 3.5 years after application on my personal vehicle with nothing more than 2 applications of Permanon Car done in the first few months).
Does VX1 REQUIRE any follow-up product to maintain/boost the coating? What I'm asking is...is this a set and forget coating, such as with Optimum's Opti-Coat (or Gloss-Coat)?
I'm looking for a coating for customers who will do nothing for a good 12 months other than wash their vehicle after my application of the VX1. So, does it REQUIRE something like having to use Reload over CQuartz to boost/maintain it?
Is the VX1 safe (and protective) for flat or semi-gloss black plastics, and clear vinyl film? What about glass and wheels?
After some period of months, can you apply another coat of the VX1 directly over the first if no correcting happened to be needed (other than maybe an IPA wipe)? Or do you need to polish the first coating completely off? Or is a fine, surface polishing enough to give you a fresh bonding surface for a new coating of VX1?
And maybe a newbie coating question, but after some period of time when you do decide to remove it due to swirls or etching or whatever, how can you tell when you've removed the coating...how do you know when you are through the coating and are then into the clearcoat?
I'm debating between the 22ple and Gloss-Coat or PBLDSC but need it for people who are only coming in once each spring to have their vehicles coated, and I won't see them again until the next spring. So, top-offs, boosters and the like are not in the program...
I don't know anything about this "system x" you speak of... but if it is still beading 3.5 years later, I am going to assume it is not a traditional wax.Quote:
Originally Posted by andygold
No coating requires follow up with another product, however most all of them can benefit from it.Quote:
Originally Posted by andygold
22ple VX1 Pro contains up to 92% pure silica. This leaves a great coating of glass on your paint, however this isn't inherently slick feeling and does not bead quite as well as some of the other coatings that contain additional polymers in them. Because of this, 22ple VS1 Final Coat can be applied on top the VX1 Pro to provide the desired slickness and water beading properties that many customers associate with "good protection".
While I do not know of the exact chemical make up of Gloss Coat, it surely contains a variety of other substances which add to its slickness, therefore this product would likely be a better bet if you are looking for a "one and done" type of product.
With that being said, any coating may stop beading at some point, but that does not indicate the coating has been removed.. in these cases, topping with a product like Reload, VS1, C2V3, etc would be the best way to enhance those properties on the surface.
Safe? Sure... the best? no. 22ple has other products specifically created for use on other areas of the car such as plastics and bare metal or wheels. 22ple VM1 for metal and VR1 for plastics. Each product is a unique chemical that has been specifically created for the substrates mentioned.Quote:
Originally Posted by andygold
Another great choice is CarPro DLUX which can be used on both plastic and metal.
I have been told in the past that you can simply apply another layer on top of an existing one if you wish. I personally would always do at least a light polish and IPA wipe down before applying a coating, but that is just me.Quote:
Originally Posted by andygold
You can't tell... but then again why would you need to tell? If your goal is to remove swirls, you will go through the necessary paint correction process to produce the finish you are after, and then apply the paint protection of your choice. As long as you are able to remove the surface defects, it makes no difference if the coating is completely removed or if some areas may still remain. The coating is so incredibly thin (1-2 microns) that the naked eye would never be able to tell.Quote:
Originally Posted by andygold
The great thing about products like 22ple VS1 and CarPro Reload is that they are so quick and easy to use, the customer can easily do it on their own. I'd encourage you to put together a maintenance kit that you either sell to customer separately, or raise the price of your service and include the kit with each service.Quote:
Originally Posted by andygold
Coatings are not simply a bullet proof product that requires little to no maintenance. They must be properly cared for in order to realize their full benefit. If your customers are already trained in proper 3 bucket washing, they should have no problem doing a 10 minute wipe down with one of these coating toppers every month or so to really leave their vehicles looking like they were just detailed.
Both 22ple and Gloss Coat are very user friendly for you to apply. 22ple just released 2 new coatings - VX3 signature and VX Pro 2 - both of which contain a new type of silica and are said to be quite an improvement over the original VX Pro. VX3 Signature Glass Coat is also a considerable value compared to the more expensive VX Pro 2 and even gloss coat.
Hope that helps.
Let me know if you've got any other questions.
-Zach
Zach, do you prefer final coat over reload when topping 22ple? I ask because final coat is a lot more expensive.
thanks
I traditionally used Reload, however I have been testing several spray detailers against each other... 2 of which are Reload and VS1 Final Coat, and to keep it short, VS1 is blowing me away.Quote:
Originally Posted by HD.Detailing
It is no doubt a little pricey, however you use very little product per application, so IMO it is worth it for the results I am seeing with it. I have been applying it by simply spraying a small amount onto a MF applicator, then rubbing it in. It almost completely disappears as you work it in, but just for good measure, I go back over it with a MF towel after each panel is covered.
I'd recommend giving it a shot if you're looking to try a new coating topper/spray sealant.
-Zach
Thanks Zach, I'll go ahead and buy this instead of resupply reload on your recommendation. Seems to be less finicky on application as reload.Quote:
Originally Posted by zmcgovern45
I did post on 22ple FB page a question about wipe on wipe off as I go, he said to use a MF towel to apply then wipe off making it similar to reload application. Have you tried applying it that way or do you just wipe on wait then wipe off?
microfiber cloth for coating application is a breeze ;)
I'm talking about VS1 topper not the coating..Quote:
Originally Posted by Mask
:xyxthumbs: on microfiber/suede cloth application of the actual coating though!
Yep - that is essentially how I do it... I think my first post was a little confusing.Quote:
Originally Posted by HD.Detailing
I spray a little product onto a microfiber applicator, then wipe a very thin layer onto a panel or section of a panel, then buff off with a clean microfiber. Simple as that!
I think you'll really enjoy it... I've used it many times recently and have given it to some friends to try and share their thoughts with me and they have also enjoyed using it. I think it is an underrated/overlooked product due to the cost, but after testing many 22ple products against others, the cost seems justified!
-Zach