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  1. #1
    Super Member ShineTimeDetail's Avatar
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    Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    So there are 94 pages on that thread(Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea) and I sure as hell will never read all of it. I know some people have tweaked it and I figured I would make this thread to find out what is working and what isn't.

    I myself have had the stuff to do it for 6 months in my van but didn't bite the bullet till about a week ago and now I can't stop finding lights to do lol I mean its amazing how easy and well it works for me. I do the 50/50 and its very easy to apply and make unifor...maybe I'm just a natural lol It was even windy the days I was doing it. I did one car that was finished at 2500 then topped with the 50/50 and then one car was polished then topped with the 50/50. I did this for durability reasons. You couldn't tell which was which when I was done. Here's a few pics of the lights I've done.


















    So are there any other tricks to doing this that is not mentioned in the first few pages?
    Last edited by ShineTimeDetail; 05-30-2012 at 12:04 PM.

  2. #2
    Super Member BobbyG's Avatar
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    I think this will make a great improvement at night!!

    Very well done....

    BobbyG - 2004 Millennium Yellow Z06 Corvette

  3. #3
    Super Member Deep Gloss Auto Salon's Avatar
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    Whats your process
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  4. #4
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    Good job Tom, what is your process?

  5. #5
    Super Member ShineTimeDetail's Avatar
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    Basically the Vibe and the Taurus were start at 1000-1500-2000-2500 then spar 50% Mineral spirit 50% The F150 and the Mustang I started with 800 I think...may have been 600 don't remember.

  6. #6
    Super Member ShineTimeDetail's Avatar
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    This thread is to summarize what is in the 95 pages of the other thread.

  7. #7
    Super Member A-train's Avatar
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    Thanks for the cliff notes version. I didn't think I would ever get that whole thing read!

  8. #8
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    Great work!
    Using polyurethane, you could probably stop at 1500 because the poly will fill in 1500 grit scratches.

    Using diluted poly is a tradeoff. As you thin it, the final coating becomes thinner, less material means less UV adsorption capaicty, meaning shorter life.

    As you thicken the mixture, lifetime will increase, filling scratches will improve, etc., but it is more difficult to apply. Also weather plays a part.

    You might try this:
    Mix less MS to the spar than normal (you might even try full strength) and apply a small area. If it's not workable, wipe off with MS and thin further until you find the heaviest coat that is still workable. The heavier the coat the longer it will last. The coarser the sanding, the more surface area fot the coating to stick to.

    If you can work with full strength. you'll probably have about 1 to 2 minutes to work the coating. Apply initially with horizontal wiping, then quickly re-wipe with vertical strokes. This will give you a more uniform coat.
    ray6

  9. #9
    Super Member crash93ssei's Avatar
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    I was hoping for a summary of that thread one day

    I know there have been a few people testing this method so far, I am going to do this to my headlights soon (2002 Bonneville SLE, 2003 Bonneville SSEi, and 1996 Chevy Z71) as they are all faded and nasty looking. How long as this been proven to last so far?
    1982 Olds Cutlass - my summer toy.
    1999 Suburban - Black of course!
    2002 Bonneville - The Mutt, a mix of everything.

  10. #10
    Super Member ShineTimeDetail's Avatar
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    Re: Headlight Restoration-new UV sealant idea** Summary**

    Quote Originally Posted by ray6 View Post
    Great work!
    Using polyurethane, you could probably stop at 1500 because the poly will fill in 1500 grit scratches.

    Using diluted poly is a tradeoff. As you thin it, the final coating becomes thinner, less material means less UV adsorption capaicty, meaning shorter life.

    As you thicken the mixtuore, lifetime will increase, filling scratches will improve, etc., but it is more difficult to apply. Also weather plays a part.

    You might try this:
    Mix less MS to the spar than normal (you might even try full strength) and apply a small area. If it's not workable, wipe off with MS and thin further until you find the heaviest coat that is still workable. The heavier the coat the longer it will last. The coarser the sanding, the more surface area fot the coating to stick to.

    If you can work with full strength. you'll probably have about 1 to 2 minutes to work the coating. Apply initially with horizontal wiping, then quickly re-wipe with vertical strokes. This will give you a more uniform coat.
    ray6
    So its possible to stop at 1500? How long does the 50/50 last ?

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