Headlight sealant: spar urethane vs. opti coat 2.0

**LegacyGT** · 07-02-2011, 08:42 AM

Well hot rod, I just did a pair of lights the other night and opted for the opti coat protection. Application was easy, hopefully it will be long lasting!

**Part-timer** · 07-02-2011, 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by HotRod

Here are the directions directly from the AG store.

Directions:

Polish paint to remove any defects.
Clean surface with 15% IPA solution to remove all polishing oils, waxes, and silicones.
Prime the applicator by making an X pattern across the pad. Only a few drops will be needed for each subsequent panel.
Wipe Opti-Coat onto a single panel at a time in a thin layer using two directions, front to back, and then side to side.
Within 5 minutes, inspect the panel with adequate lighting looking for any thick areas that have not flashed away to clear.
Use foam applicator or paint safe microfiber to even out any areas where you see streaks. This step is key, as any spots not leveled will have to be polished if allowed to cure. Panels will feel a bit tacky and will be self-leveling during cure time, so avoid any unnecessary touching, wiping, or contact to produce the best results.
Repeat steps 1-6 for each panel where application is desired. Not recommended for glass.

Its definitely applied differently than the spar urethane, and it needs a perfect surface, as it does not hide scratches at all. The opti coat does not require any special tools for application, as you just use the provided applicator sponge, however you will need a polisher if you have done any wet sanding.

Sounds like there is a bit of room for error. I think I'll stick with the spar...lol

**Part-timer** · 07-12-2011, 03:08 PM

Hotrod.....I saw a youtube video of a guy using a razor blade at a right angle to the headlight to scrape off the original coating that hadn't worn all the way off. I actually tried this on a test scrap light that I had and it worked great! I do a lot of used car lot headlights and a lot of them are only messed up about 1/3 of the way down from the top. This works great at first but you have to be very careful that you don't gouge the lens of scrape the edges of the painted surface. Of course, then you have to start sanding with a 400 or 500.
I also have gone to wet sanding by hand after an initial pass with the blade and a 400 disc.
Have you ever tried this method? Anyone else?

**mr.fusion** · 07-13-2011, 09:40 AM

I was using blades quite a bit when first doing HL in the 90's, and still do occasionally... on a really thick crusty clear coat that would take a lot of sanding. Sometimes a blade will flake it off really easy, where sanding would be tough sledding. You have to be really careful with technique. It's easy to leave "tails" that require extensive sanding to remove... marks where the blade comes to a stop.

**Part-timer** · 07-16-2011, 06:00 AM

Originally Posted by mr.fusion

I was using blades quite a bit when first doing HL in the 90's, and still do occasionally... on a really thick crusty clear coat that would take a lot of sanding. Sometimes a blade will flake it off really easy, where sanding would be tough sledding. You have to be really careful with technique. It's easy to leave "tails" that require extensive sanding to remove... marks where the blade comes to a stop.

Mr.Fusion.......I can't remember if you already told me this but,....whats your process? grits? wet/dry sand? By hand or machine? Polish or no polish?

**BillyJack** · 07-16-2011, 06:34 AM

Subscribed.
I'm looking forward to seeing long term test results. I did an OC headlight treatment on one of the family cars in late May and am very pleased so far. I agree that the gloss and depth of finish doesn't look that impressive at first, but the OC seems to improve during the first week or so. I do know that it's very easy to keep clean. Dead bug guts wipe clean with very little effort. Time will tell.
Bill

**mr.fusion** · 07-16-2011, 11:57 PM

I've been experimenting doing HL for around 15 years... so procedures vary depending on my mood LOL.

Typical process for me of late... Dry sand with 5" DA starting with what's needed. Sometimes one step(1000 or 1500g), sometimes 2 or 3. (400-1500g) Then wet sand by hand 2000 Unigrit and 3000 Trizact if I'm in a good mood. Love that stuff, been using if for at least 10 years.

I've recently picked up more 3" paper but I don't have the griots sander yet. After using 5" for so long... I don't think I can do 3" except on the real small lights.

At that point it's ready for your finish of choice. For me it depends on the specific job and the situation. Either coat with spar/spray clear(SEM, etc), or polish it out (plastix is real easy to work with and cheap) with a high-rpm 3-4" yellow or wool pad and at hit it with 303 or Optiseal if not Opticoat, etc. If you polish out... the sanding process has to be done well. Sometimes I'm not thrilled with the spar results (wipe on application can bite sometimes) but it makes the job so easy, since it covers imperfections and gives a nice gloss with no polishing required. When it lays down and blends out perfect, it looks great. Even when it's not perfect... it's glossy and looks good. Oh...I always do a quick wipe with IPA before any coatings.

Normally for me, the whole process moves along quickly. Doing spar is easier and quicker. Even some of the tougher cars I can do in less than 30 min. A couple weeks ago I did 6 cars on a dealer lot. Doing the spar finish, they were taking less than 20 minutes on average. There were a couple quickies, but most were full process sand and spar.

btw, I work out of the back of my rig and use a 1000w inverter so I don't have to run drop cords or move the vehicle, etc. Doing anything for a dealer is about volume and efficiency, and they are getting a good price. So I admit one of my goals is to work quick... but still #1 is to try to make the lights look great.

**Part-timer** · 07-17-2011, 07:40 PM

mr. fusion......Wow! Your quick! lol It definately takes me longer, but the more I do, the better and quicker I become. I tried that Griots 3" machine and didn't care for it. (just my taste) I had a ton of swirl marks that I ended up hand sanding out later when they showed up during the 3000 grit step. It sucked for me because then I had to go backwards and try to remove the swirls. It was like twice the work. I couldn't get used to the dry sanding part either. The machine seemed pretty dang noisey also. Being a mechanic of 22 years, I feared for a long lasting life from it with that much noise. Who knows? Maybe I got a lemon...lol Nevertheless, I traded it in for the 6" griots which I will be using for detailing. I'm feeling more comfortable with wet hand sanding right now. (But ALWAYS open to other's ideas and suggestions) Thanks for all your advice....much appreciated!

**Part-timer** · 08-27-2011, 08:16 PM

Mr. Fusion...... Is it just me, or does it seem like different makes/models have harder or softer composite material in their headlamp lenses? I'm wondering if thats why some are harder or easier to sand? Example....it seems like the Honda's and Chrysler's sand real easy and don't leave a bunch of sanding marks(swirls....ect). Other cars like Mitsubishi Eclipse and Chevy trucks seem like I really have to be careful and sand the heck outta them each step to make sure I don't get to the 3000 trizact and then see some 800 deep scratches left behind that I never noticed until then. I end up having to go back and re-sand by hand with 1000 to remove the marks, then work my way up to 3000 again. Anyone?