Headlight sealant: spar urethane vs. opti coat 2.0

**HotRod** · 10-12-2011, 03:04 PM

Originally Posted by Louie_Blu

Hello HotRod, I see you used 7 types of sandpaper from low grit to higher grit was it really neccesary to use that much Sandpaper? you did mention because it was a GM car
Also you mentioned that you Primed first with Mineral spirits then applied Spar Urethane did you not mix the Urethane with Mineral Spirits as well ? just curious but aren't supposed to polish the headlight then apply Opti-Coat, or is this just for your experiment sorry for so many questions lol just would like to know
thanks for your time
Louie
P.S.
BTW Fantastic Job on those Headlights HotRod

I usually start with 400, but thats just how I do it, in my opinion its necessary with most lights. I do them all by hand, if you used an electric or air sander you probably would not need that coarse of grit, and it would go faster and be more uniformly sanded. The GM lights that I have worked with have very hard clear coats on the lens, so it takes a little extra time, elbow grease and thats why you want coarse sandpaper. I think 400 is the coarsest paper I have tried.

The reason I prime the lights with mineral spirits before the application of the spar is to make it go on smoother. A member of this forum gave me that tip, and I have not had any application problems since then. No streaks and no do-overs, with this step. I prime the lens, let it dry, mix the spar urethane and mineral spirits 50/50 in unwaxed cup, apply the treatment and let dry.

And yes, I did polish the opti coat lens after sanding and before application of opti coat. And I removed all polishing oils before the treatment was applied to insure that we have the best bond possible, and that there are no doubts that I did it right.

**Gatto5** · 10-13-2011, 04:31 PM

Louie Blu,

Thanks for your Flyer. Its looks a lot more professional then mine.

:
Do you print them from home or have them done at a print shop?

Thanks again for your input

Gatto5

**Louie_Blu** · 10-13-2011, 05:01 PM

Originally Posted by Gatto5

Louie Blu,

Thanks for your Flyer. Its looks a lot more professional then mine.

:
Do you print them from home or have them done at a print shop?

Thanks again for your input

Gatto5

I printed them at home but I have it saved on my Computer if I ever need to go to Kinko's although that can be expensive I might just start printing 2 per page would save a lot on ink lol
Glad you liked the Flyer Gatto

**Louie_Blu** · 10-13-2011, 05:05 PM

Originally Posted by HotRod

I usually start with 400, but thats just how I do it, in my opinion its necessary with most lights. I do them all by hand, if you used an electric or air sander you probably would not need that coarse of grit, and it would go faster and be more uniformly sanded. The GM lights that I have worked with have very hard clear coats on the lens, so it takes a little extra time, elbow grease and thats why you want coarse sandpaper. I think 400 is the coarsest paper I have tried.

The reason I prime the lights with mineral spirits before the application of the spar is to make it go on smoother. A member of this forum gave me that tip, and I have not had any application problems since then. No streaks and no do-overs, with this step. I prime the lens, let it dry, mix the spar urethane and mineral spirits 50/50 in unwaxed cup, apply the treatment and let dry.

And yes, I did polish the opti coat lens after sanding and before application of opti coat. And I removed all polishing oils before the treatment was applied to insure that we have the best bond possible, and that there are no doubts that I did it right.

Thanks for more detail on what you did, it really helps me out as I further my knowledge on Headlight restoration.
Much appreciated HotRod

Louie

**QS&K HEADLIGHTS** · 10-13-2011, 08:50 PM

Hey guys thanks for all the wisdom about headlights. what brand of sandpaper is the best or seems to work effectively? Im new in this field and very excited to start. Thank you again

**Part-timer** · 10-13-2011, 09:01 PM

Originally Posted by QS&K HEADLIGHTS

Hey guys thanks for all the wisdom about headlights. what brand of sandpaper is the best or seems to work effectively? Im new in this field and very excited to start. Thank you again

I am curious about the brand and type of sandpaper everyone uses too. I found a website where I get a 50 pack box of any grit up to 3000, 9" X 11" wet/dry paper for $15.00 It is Silicone Carbide.
What does everyone else use?

opie_7afe · 10-14-2011, 12:50 AM

the best wet sand papers have a waterproof coated backing on them, however norton wet sandpaper is pretty good and seems to be uni-grit, 3m wet/dry seems OK but dont seem to have uniform abrasives, and of course there is the infamous nikken papers which are top of the line and are what the meguiars sand papers are. best is to get high quality sandpaper if your doing high quality work, uniform abrasive size helps with getting the best final finish possible, however if your just doing this method cheap wet sandpaper will work as its being filled anyways, but if you're doing something like wet sanding paint or something where you will be needing to remove sanding marks go with a high quality sand paper

.

**Louie_Blu** · 10-14-2011, 04:55 AM

Originally Posted by Part-timer

I am curious about the brand and type of sandpaper everyone uses too. I found a website where I get a 50 pack box of any grit up to 3000, 9" X 11" wet/dry paper for $15.00 It is Silicone Carbide.
What does everyone else use?

Would Like to Know that website Part-timer can you PM me with it, appreciate it

Thanks

Louie

**QS&K HEADLIGHTS** · 10-14-2011, 08:48 AM

Originally Posted by Louie_Blu

Would Like to Know that website Part-timer can you PM me with it, appreciate it

Thanks

Louie

me too, Thanks part-time and Louie

**Gurge** · 10-14-2011, 09:31 AM

As someone doing headlight work who has switched from spar urethane to opti coat (under the assumption it was better) I'm definitley curious how this plays out. thanks for the detailed writeup.