1967 Camaro.

[TMQ]

Everything on the car is going to be saved....

Will know Monday what the plan will be!

Leave as is and make it reliable or do a full resto mod.

Tom

[IH8SPM]

The top stitches are dry rotted---Owner plans to replace the top.
I went ahead to see how much dirt I could pull out of the top.
Did the vacuum, wash. Best cut was the Woolite, distilled water with Sonax brush!

Did not bother with cleaning wheels---They are going to replace them with new rims/tires.

The big take away from today....Embedded dirt!
Machine polishing removed the embedded dirt and restored gloss and color.

Tom

Would that type of paint or ere vehicle benefit from iron remover and clay bar? Looks great BTW.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

[TMQ]

Would that type of paint or ere vehicle benefit from iron remover and clay bar? Looks great BTW.

Sent from my SM-N986U using Tapatalk

You want to keep water off on an old car. No need to do iron remover and even clay barring!

Tom

[Wknd Dtlr]

Great job Tom! You're getting great performance out of BF One Step.

Was that the Rupes Yellow pad you used?

[TMQ]

Great job Tom! You're getting great performance out of BF One Step.

Was that the Rupes Yellow pad you used?

Used CBEAST and Yellow rupes pads on top hood and trunk.

Then switched over to the beast and orange force hybrids on the sides.

Both worked great---the beast is bit faster and produces a bit glossier results on a very hard white surface.

Tom

[Coatingsarecrack]

Looks great... nice recovery. If we get a vote here on AG i’m for the restomod


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[TMQ]

After polishing the car----I'll vote restomod too!

Tom

[waddell64]

Looks amazing!

[Mike Phillips]

Question--Is acrylic lacquer on the hard side?

Good question. The short answer is HARD.

Single stage WHITE paint tends to be the hardest paint there is because the pigment is very hard. The pigment alters the hardness of the resin. So a hard pigment makes the paint hard and a soft pigment makes the paint soft. The pigment for white paint is Titanium Dioxide Powder.

For those reading this into the future - NONE OF THIS AFFECTS CARS WITH A CLEARCOAT. (This little tidbit is for all those scanners in the world that don't read)




I touched on this topic when I detailed a car with the original BLACK paint a few weeks ago.

Here's the write-up....

Barn Find - 1950 Pontiac Chieftain Deluxe Convertible - Extreme Paint Correction


Here's what I wrote in post #4



Soft Paint versus Hard Paint

Generally speaking, modern clearcoats are harder than old school single stage paints with the exception of single stage white paint. Yes I know there are exceptions to the rule and any detailer that has been detailing for a while, like myself, has come across modern cars with soft clearcoat paint. Besides the exceptions, I'll say it again, generally speaking, modern clearcoats are harder than old school, solvent-evaporation single stage lacquers and enamels.


The softest paint

Generally speaking, (and from experience), antique, single stage black paint is the softest paint there is to work on in the history of "the car". When it comes to paint hardness or paint softness, this characteristic is affected by both the resin and the pigment. Paint is at it's core, some form of resin. To give paint or resin color, pigment is added in the mixing stage. Now follow me, some pigments are very hard, some pigments are very soft and of course, some pigments are in the middle. The hardness or softness of the pigment will alter or modify the hardness or softness of the resin.


Examples of hard and soft paints

Single Stage White Paint

When it comes to white paint, the pigment used is a very hard mineral called Titanium Dioxide. Adding this mineral in a powdered form to any type of resin will make the resin very hard. In fact, for the most part I would NEVER take on a job to wetsand and buff a single stage white paint job where the paint is already cured. Why? Because I'll never be able to remove 100% of the sanding marks. Sanding is easy, that's putting scratches INTO the paint. Heck, anyone can wetsand a car. The tricky part is removing the sanding marks.


Single Stage Black Paint

To make black paint, Carbon Black powder is used. Carbon Black in simple terms is soot, like in chimney soot, or the kind of soot you would find accumulating on the underneath side of the home barbecue. It's a very dark, black residue or powder from the incomplete combustion of some other materiel. The other material could be fire wood or when you burn your T-bone Steak last summer on the Weber Barbecue on the back patio.


The BIG PICTURE

When it comes to doing paint correction, knowing the hardness or softness of the paint can help you choose the products, pads and tools you'll use to remove paint defects. BUT - you will never know how hard or soft the paint is on the car before you until YOU do what I call a Test Spot. That is, you test a product, pad, tool and technique that you THINK will remove the defects and leave behind perfectly looking paint and if you have chosen wisely - it works. This is why you also start with very NON-AGGRESSIVE products. If the paint is soft, then the non-aggressive products will remove the defects while leaving the most paint behind on the car to last over the service life of the car. If start with non-aggressive products and find out the paint is hard, you're safe, you can then do another Test Spot and this time, do the test spot in a different place on the and test out more aggressive products, pads or even tools.

If the paint was in fact soft, you will have discovered this by using non-aggressive products and more important you will have done the testing in the safest way possible to protect both you, your business and your reputation and of course, protected the integrity of the paint on the car. When I say protecting the integrity of the paint on the car I mean you will NOT have burned through the paint where you did your test spot.

Doing a Test Spot is the professional approach to dialing-in a process you can then duplicate over the rest of the car. It is also the ONLY way to determine if the paint on a car is hard, soft or somewhere in-between. If you're brand new to paint correction you are missing one component that is also necessary to use a Test Spot to determine paint hardness or softness and that is experience. And the only way to get experience is to buff out hundreds of cars. I know this isn't the answer everyone wants to hear but is is the fact of the matter.

[TMQ]

Thanks Mike....Worth reviewing from time to time!