In-Progress: 1986 Porsche 951 (Guards Red)

[Sizzle Chest]

Good deal, glad it came off without breaking! At least you will have a guide as to where to place the badge back! LOL.

And the areas around it now will match the rest of the paint surrounding it.

Nice.

[Sizzle Chest]

Good deal, glad it came off without breaking! At least you will have a guide as to where to place the badge back! LOL.

And the areas around it now will match the rest of the paint surrounding it.

Nice.

[Slowcorrado]

Friday night update:

So I just had to get back to my badge ordeal. Tonight was the night I was going to hit the right rear with the UC. There's lots of prep work, then about an hour and a half of DA action... WHAM! Looks amazing. :-) Well Sizzle Chest, I do have a problem. As evidenced by the pic, I am going to have a tough time putting the badge back on right. :-) Actually, the pic is a little deceiving. It is possible to see that the paint under the lettering is "thicker" than the remainder. So as another lesson to anyone asking: There is NO substitute for removing the lettering. It just simply won't come out half as good. After I finished this I completed a good pass on the rest of the back with the UC. It's great stuff. I was also a little more aggressive on the bumper end cap and it looks better than the driver's side. (I'll return to that side and get it again) The 2nd pic is after I was done for the night. Notice the untouched paint on the passenger's side where my work ends. Yeow.

I feel that I need to stop and thank everyone for the well-wishes, words of wisdom and support. I simply can't believe that "I" am able to make such a change on this car. I am not a professional, I don't have the best tools and I don't have any professional training. It's a highly rewarding job and I only wish I had half skills some of you folks have. With that said, if anyone's in the central PA area and wants to give some pointers in-person, PM me. :-) On to the pics...

Click the pics to see them in full size/resolution

Where did the badge go again? (Color is a little off because I had my LED trouble light so close)


"After" shot after the UC pass on the whole back end.

[SWETM]

Outstanding results you are getting!

/Tony

[Slowcorrado]

Sat night update:

Moving on to the next section; the roof. WOW, what a mess. I am a little disappointed in the condition of what's up here. I cleaned and ran the clay bar over everything and was rewarded with some large flaws. The previous owners have completely buffed through the hard edges around the sunroof and on the side roof rails to the point the aluminum is showing through shiny... OW. There are at least 10 medium to large chips (one around .75" diameter) that will need to be dealt with. Overall, the paint is far worse on this flat horizontal surface. I finished up tonight by applying 2 coats of M7 and letting it sit. My big concerns are the chips. I don't know when the proper time is and the best kit to do a repair. I'd like a single-stage solution that will be as close of a match physically to the original. I'm a realist though and understand that getting it perfect isn't going to be possible. Any suggestions would be appreciated! On to the pics:


Click the pics to see them in full size/resolution

The "before" shot


A detail of the paint condition and some burn-through


The largest chip.


Burnt through aluminum roof rail (shiny metal LOL)

[kevincwelch]

This is really a fantastic thread, and I'm impressed you took on this project!!!

[Dr Oldz]

Awesome work and thread!! Keep it up!!!

[SWETM]

There is some bodyshops or the ones selling and blending paint. That can color match your accually paint you have on your car. They read the paint with something and you get a paint that has the color of the condition of your paint. The benefit with single stage paint is it's easier to fix without repaint the whole panels. Then it's very important how good the bodyshop is too. Look into a bodyshop that are well renowned to do great insurance jobs or maybe a custom work. Then it's much about the budget you have to get it fixed.

[Sizzle Chest]

You should be able to find the measurements online for where the badge goes--you may have to visit a few Porsche sites, but I'm sure someone has that information so you will be able to measure and then tape off where your badge goes.

As far as your chips, they are pretty nasty, and the only way to do it 'right' is to strip it down, remove the corrosion and re-spray that area. However, if you just want it to look better, you should be able to do a decent temporary (to long term) fix with a chip repair kit such as Dr Colorchip or similar.

[Slowcorrado]

So, it's been a couple days..... Not because I was lazy and didn't post; but because I ran into my 1st real challenge. The roof paint is just demolished. I did 4 M7 coats with vigorous manual application, then cleaned it all off and had to use UC for 2 full passes/sessions to get it to be about 75%. My green microfibers looked like I was wiping blood up there was so much red coming off. I stopped because I'm not comfortable going too much harder on it. I don't have the experience to know what I can and can't do. I'll be going over the whole car again with UP, so that will hopefully help. It's a little disheartening to see all the burnt through edges from previous aggressive rotary buffers. I was good and taped off the hard edges and really tried to improve on my technique. It just shows me that I was spoiled by the vertical panels with their "light" oxidation vs. these with "serious" oxidation. I'm now dreading the hood since it's huge. LOL. Ordered some touch-up paint and a sanding pen to get that additional project moving. On to the pics for today:

Click the pics to see them in full size/resolution

Do you see a difference? Remember, the bad side has been cleaned, clay bar, 4 rubdowns of M7 already!


Done for now, I'm hoping I can refine it a little when I do a full pass with the Ultimate Polish.