Rupes coarse wool pad Breakage -reasons

[Manilruben]

Have you done the washer mod?

If not, is the shroud and plate lubricated?

Washer mod yes I did see a couple YouTube videos but i was not sure whether I should

On the lubrications can you please elaborate


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[Manilruben]

I want to try these new Rupes wool pads, but have been hesitant to plunk down $25 on a single pad. I've been waiting to hear reports about their durability. The B&S Euro-wool pads are half the cost.

Yes B&S uro are fantastic pads unfortunately you don’t get them in india


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[Manilruben]

The only way is to use a paint thickness gauge. And control measure after the test spot on how much clearcoat you cutting off.

Ohh thought since you had the Menzerna HC400 and SF3800 you could get other polishes from them. To stay inside of the rules on the forum. What brands of polishes do you have access to that is sold on AGO? Or PM me with a list and I maybe know of some of the polishes you have access to.

Did you use the same pad when you saw the lesser results? That's is the big drawback with only use 1 pad or a few on a whole car. It gets build up residue of polish and clearcoat that you don't are able to brush out or blow out the pad. And you loose cut from the pad.

If you gotten the cut from the 2-3 passes you are around half way through the breaking down the diminishing abrasives in HC400. So the last passes you cut like a medium cut polish to polish the last 2-3 passes extra. If you stop to soon you have not broken down the abrasives enough and has a finish that is not done. And you see more haze than you do if you polish 2-3 extra passes. But all depends on the armspeed you move the polisher with. Move too fast and you don't break them down and move too slow you break them down too soon and maybe overwork the polish.

With the pad break it can be you use it too much and it gets saturated and heat building up and weakens the interface where it's glued with the velcro. And it's goes faster if useing to much of polish on the pad. Also as mentioned above it can be too much pressure on the polisher. And sometimes just unlucky to have a manufacturing fault pad.

Paint thickness gauge I am searching desperately for one hope to get it soon

When I saw lesser results I cleaned the pads using Rupes claw tool then primed it after that I went on further it was the fender of the car. When I realised that defect removal was not happening.

I jumped to the hood followed the process of cleaning the pad and started after 2 passes the pad snapped off . New Fresh pad from the shelf with half fender and part of the hood the pad snapped.

The saddest part I contacted the local dealer who had sold me the machine and pads he had a very straight answer “sir you did not fit the pad properly to the machine “ I did want to argue knowing how knowledgeable the guy is.

I will PM you the list I have access to so that I can get some help


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[Manilruben]

I’m not sure what is going on with your wool pads. I just did a car with 400 and Rupes blue wool pads and had no pad separation at all. I was using Rupes 15 MKII on 4.5 on BMW paint. I followed up with Menzerma 3500 on a Rupes yellow to remove the slight haze. In my experience Menzerma 3800 just doesn’t have enough cut to remove haze on hard German paint systems. 3800 is more of a “jeweling” Polish than a true correction Polish. Remember you have to “work” Menzerma polishes to get the best out of them. The abrasives start large and break down into smaller particles creating a great finish.

Sometimes Meguires d300 can remove more defects than Menzerma 400 since d300 has a longer cutting period. d300 usually needs more refining after use than 400. Both are great abrasive technologies.

Thank you I think the cycle time was short as you suggested will work on the polish. I am happy to know what menzerna is actually this insight is a great help. Thank you


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[Manilruben]

The polish may be the issue. When I spoke with Dylan from Rupes at Mobile Tech Expo he advised against using Menzerna 400 with the Rupes blue foam pads, as it will eat thru the pad cell structure! Not sure if the same thing is happening with this pad and backing.

But I have seen lot of them using the combination. I think the Rupes foam had some issues in some start incidents. So one suggestion was to use LC orange CCs pads


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[DBAILEY]

I think it was FG400 that was causing the Rupes green foam pads to deteriorate quickly

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I think it was FG400 that was causing the Rupes green foam pads to deteriorate quickly

Jason Rose of Rupes told me completely avoid high solvent compounds with the Rupes green pad. FG400 is a high solvent compound.

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[dlc95]

Washer mod yes I did see a couple YouTube videos but i was not sure whether I should

On the lubrications can you please elaborate


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What I do, is take the the plate off the tool, clean and the rubber shroud.

Then I take a small dab of dielectric grease and apply of to the part of the plate that comes into contact with the rubber shroud. You don't want to slather a ton of it on because it can get a little messy. I've also found too much will restrict rotation, which was a real head scratcher...

It needs to be done periodically as the grease breaks down and gets contaminated with compound dust.

It doesn't need to be that involved though. There have been times where I put a tiny bit on the blue part of the plate, wiped off my finger, and got back to work...

[rlmccarty2000]

Jason Rose of Rupes told me completely avoid high solvent compounds with the Rupes green pad. FG400 is a high solvent compound.

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I can back that up. Menzerma products can cause Rupes pads to delaminate. This was a problem a few years back. I’m not sure if Rupes has corrected the problem. I quit using the Rupes blue and green pads in favor of microfiber and wool. I’ve never had a problem with Menzerma and Rupes yellow pads, but I don’t let them get saturated with polish. My main problem was with the green 4 inch pad.