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  1. #1
    Newbie Member braga's Avatar
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    Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Hello, I don't know which pads for compounding to buy. I will be using LHR 15 Mark II, will finish the paint with Rupes Yellow pad + Rupes Keramik (Yellow).
    Sometimes ONE STEP polishing with rupes yellow+yellow if the clearcoat is not so trashed. But most of cars paint will be trashed, so I need something to cut with.
    I would buy Rupes Blue foam, and use it with Menzerna FG400, but I heard Rupes Blue foam doesn't last too long, so it will break up after a few cars? Most cars will be Germany, like MB BMW AUDI VW, sometimes Japan cars like TOYOTA LEXUS.
    Meguiar's Microfiber DA Cutting Pad with FG400? Rupes Blue Microfiber with FG400? I don't know.

    THANK YOU!

  2. #2
    Super Member Rsurfer's Avatar
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Quote Originally Posted by braga View Post
    Hello, I don't know which pads for compounding to buy. I will be using LHR 15 Mark II, will finish the paint with Rupes Yellow pad + Rupes Keramik (Yellow).
    Sometimes ONE STEP polishing with rupes yellow+yellow if the clearcoat is not so trashed. But most of cars paint will be trashed, so I need something to cut with.
    I would buy Rupes Blue foam, and use it with Menzerna FG400, but I heard Rupes Blue foam doesn't last too long, so it will break up after a few cars? Most cars will be Germany, like MB BMW AUDI VW, sometimes Japan cars like TOYOTA LEXUS.
    Meguiar's Microfiber DA Cutting Pad with FG400? Rupes Blue Microfiber with FG400? I don't know.

    THANK YOU!
    Try each and see. Not all paint are created equal. What works on one make and model may not work on another. As Mike P would say, do a test spot.

  3. #3
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    If looking for heavy cutting look at the Rupes blue wool pad the short haired wool. And also the yellow wool pad could be an option on softer paints. The benefits with wool pad is it holds the temperature down. Lake Country have the purple foam wool pad that many likes. As for compound HC400 is not the heaviest cut from. It cuts good but on real hard paints you could be needing the SHC300. Sonax Cutmax and Sonax Cut & Finish is some great options too. There are so many great polishes know days. And pads there are many great options available too. Maybe you need to be test out some different brand lines that are for longthrows polishers. Griots Garage BOSS pads and LC HDO and Buff and Shine Uro-Tec and B&S Uro-fiber and Uro-wool is some for longthrows.

    Not answered your question excactly but as mentioned above different combos works on different paints.

  4. #4
    Super Member The Guz's Avatar
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    The Meguiar’s microfiber cutting pad is better than the Rupes microfiber pad. At least from my experience.

    If you are looking for another brand check out the pads from Americana global. Their foam cutting pad is nice.

    Hard to beat the Rupes yellow foam pad.

  5. #5
    Newbie Member braga's Avatar
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Quote Originally Posted by Rsurfer View Post
    Try each and see. Not all paint are created equal. What works on one make and model may not work on another. As Mike P would say, do a test spot.
    I'm looking to buy pads, I do not have them in my detailing bag, so I can't test it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    If looking for heavy cutting look at the Rupes blue wool pad the short haired wool. And also the yellow wool pad could be an option on softer paints. The benefits with wool pad is it holds the temperature down. Lake Country have the purple foam wool pad that many likes. As for compound HC400 is not the heaviest cut from. It cuts good but on real hard paints you could be needing the SHC300. Sonax Cutmax and Sonax Cut & Finish is some great options too. There are so many great polishes know days. And pads there are many great options available too. Maybe you need to be test out some different brand lines that are for longthrows polishers. Griots Garage BOSS pads and LC HDO and Buff and Shine Uro-Tec and B&S Uro-fiber and Uro-wool is some for longthrows.

    Not answered your question excactly but as mentioned above different combos works on different paints.
    We do not have those pads here where I live. Will Menzerna HC400 destroy Rupes Blue Foam pad? I heard they doesn't last long with Rupes Green Foam.
    What about Nanolex DA pads?
    I'm looking for a great cut (on hard paints) and durability, will work with Menzerna HC400.
    BTW: Anyone uses Rupes Claw for cleaning pads during polishing?

  6. #6
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    I have not used the Rupes blue foam pad my self. The thing I have to get the longest durability from the blue and green pad is you need to be prime them as Rupes recommends. The Rag Company has videos on Youtube with a Rupes guy that show how you prime their pads. Think that you need to be holding it on the same spot for 25-30 seconds. This is to get the foam softer and like a polish build in the foam surface that touch the paint and so it don't soak up the product through the and saturate the foam. That is the problem with Menzerna and Rupes pad if you use it too much and saturate the foam so the compound reach the velcro adisives. Cause the chemicals in Menzerna compound is desolving the adisive so the velcro adisives laminates the pad. This is only on the blue and green pad I think. But many uses the HC400 and Rupes pads just prime as you should and don't over use the pad so it don't get saturated. So switch pads frequently and put them in a pad cleaner solution directly. And you could get a little longer durability from the pads. If you get problems maybe switch to another brand of pads or another brand of compound.

    Have you tried the Rupes blue compound?

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  8. #7
    Newbie Member braga's Avatar
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Quote Originally Posted by SWETM View Post
    I have not used the Rupes blue foam pad my self. The thing I have to get the longest durability from the blue and green pad is you need to be prime them as Rupes recommends. The Rag Company has videos on Youtube with a Rupes guy that show how you prime their pads. Think that you need to be holding it on the same spot for 25-30 seconds. This is to get the foam softer and like a polish build in the foam surface that touch the paint and so it don't soak up the product through the and saturate the foam. That is the problem with Menzerna and Rupes pad if you use it too much and saturate the foam so the compound reach the velcro adisives. Cause the chemicals in Menzerna compound is desolving the adisive so the velcro adisives laminates the pad. This is only on the blue and green pad I think. But many uses the HC400 and Rupes pads just prime as you should and don't over use the pad so it don't get saturated. So switch pads frequently and put them in a pad cleaner solution directly. And you could get a little longer durability from the pads. If you get problems maybe switch to another brand of pads or another brand of compound.

    Have you tried the Rupes blue compound?
    Thank you for replying, I never tried Rupes Blue Compound, there is no 250ml bottles for sale.
    OK, so I will use Menzerna HC400 compound, most cars will be Germany, can't decide which pads to buy.
    Rupes Blue Foam
    Meguiar's Microfiber DA Cutting Pad.

    Foam should be more user friendly I guess. Will it cut hard clearcoat like BMW Black Sapphire Metallic (using HC400)?

  9. #8
    Mike Phillips
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Just to chime in....

    Kind of sounds like you're new to machine polishing? Or at least new to large stroke orbital polishers?


    Here's a tip....

    Take a black sharpie marker and place a black mark on the side of your backing plate like this,





    And even do it to all the sides of your buffing pads like this,






    You NEED and WANT this mark to make it EASY for your eyes to SEE and MONITOR pad rotation. If the pad is NOT rotating you are NOT doing anything and by "doing anything" I mean you are NOT doing correction work.


    You say,


    Quote Originally Posted by braga

    But most of cars paint will be trashed, so I need something to cut with.

    Follow me on this as it's important.

    Removing defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation means REMOVING PAINT. A hard concept for some people to grasp but that is a fact. You technically don't remove swirls and scratches because they don't exist, they are a void in the paint. What you technically do is remove the paint surrounding swirls and scratches - simply put you abrade the surface and LEVEL IT until the highest points of the surface are level the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remove.

    So to remove defects you must remove paint.

    Now let me tie this into pad rotation.

    When using ANY polisher and ANY brand of polisher, if the pad is not rotating you are NOT removing paint. You will find guys on the Internet that will argue this point but for all the energy they will use to argue that a pad ONLY VIBRATING or JIGGLING against the paint will remove paint it's not effective enough to buff out a car in any kind of acceptable time to call it EFFECTIVE. Plus you'll never make a dime if you're doing this for money.

    You need pad rotation.

    So mark your backing plate and mark the side of your pads to make it easy for your eyeballs to look at and monitor pad rotation. If the pad isn't rotating you're not doing anything.

    What's the answer?

    Practice holding the tool in such a way that you are able to maintain pad rotation - I cover this in my RUPES how-to book.

    Use pads that rotate well on the tool you're using - be it a RUPES or a Porter Cable 7424XP - regardless of the tool, use pads that rotate.


    Hope that helps...



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  11. #9
    Mike Phillips
    Guest

    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Also.....


    I'd highly recommend reading this article.... might save you some disappointment and keep you on the right track when it comes to pad selection....


    The Air Test - Using NON RUPES pads on RUPES Polishers by Mike Phillips




  12. Thanks braga thanked for this post
  13. #10
    Newbie Member braga's Avatar
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    Re: Rupes LHR15 Mark II, for cutting?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Phillips View Post
    Just to chime in....

    Kind of sounds like you're new to machine polishing? Or at least new to large stroke orbital polishers?


    Here's a tip....

    Take a black sharpie marker and place a black mark on the side of your backing plate like this,





    And even do it to all the sides of your buffing pads like this,






    You NEED and WANT this mark to make it EASY for your eyes to SEE and MONITOR pad rotation. If the pad is NOT rotating you are NOT doing anything and by "doing anything" I mean you are NOT doing correction work.


    You say,





    Follow me on this as it's important.

    Removing defects like swirls, scratches, water spots and oxidation means REMOVING PAINT. A hard concept for some people to grasp but that is a fact. You technically don't remove swirls and scratches because they don't exist, they are a void in the paint. What you technically do is remove the paint surrounding swirls and scratches - simply put you abrade the surface and LEVEL IT until the highest points of the surface are level the lowest depths of the defects you're trying to remove.

    So to remove defects you must remove paint.

    Now let me tie this into pad rotation.

    When using ANY polisher and ANY brand of polisher, if the pad is not rotating you are NOT removing paint. You will find guys on the Internet that will argue this point but for all the energy they will use to argue that a pad ONLY VIBRATING or JIGGLING against the paint will remove paint it's not effective enough to buff out a car in any kind of acceptable time to call it EFFECTIVE. Plus you'll never make a dime if you're doing this for money.

    You need pad rotation.

    So mark your backing plate and mark the side of your pads to make it easy for your eyeballs to look at and monitor pad rotation. If the pad isn't rotating you're not doing anything.

    What's the answer?

    Practice holding the tool in such a way that you are able to maintain pad rotation - I cover this in my RUPES how-to book.

    Use pads that rotate well on the tool you're using - be it a RUPES or a Porter Cable 7424XP - regardless of the tool, use pads that rotate.


    Hope that helps...


    Thank you a lot! Will mark my Rupes backing plate and pads for sure.
    Yes, I'm new in polishing, but I really love this hobby.
    I already read that topic "non Rupes pads on Rupes polishers".
    I guess I'm going with Rupes Blue Foam and HC400, I saw your post with positive feedback about Rupes Blue Foam + FG400 (as far as I know HC400 is FG400 with a new name )
    Rupes Yellow + Yellow is a great option for one step polishing? After that, I will put some wax using Rupes LHR15 Mark II with Rupes Diamond (White foam pad)

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