Rupes Mille vs 3401 - UPDATED Thoughts

[Rsurfer]

First thank you for your unbiased review of the various tools used in your detailing business.

Based on what you have written I have recently purchased 2 of the Rupes Mille and their pads (I already have 2 of the Flex 3401) and given that time is always an issue for me (and not being a detailing professional) I am constantly exploring the most efficient way to have great looking family cars with only a one step process and then a coating. Since I bought the Rupes Mille liquids my plan was to polish my Black Lexus GS350 with the Mille polishes (either fine or extra fine), then coat with Opti Gloss Coat. 2 years ago I used Flex with Menzerna SF3500 and then Opti Coat and the car looked excellent but I wanted a smoother tool since the Flex is beast and just beats my hands up terrible.

I was wondering if you have a preferred process for the Rupes Mille with CarPro Essence since that product combines a polish with a coating and that just seems to be an unbelievable combination, if I can dial it in right. I see you have used Essence with the Mille and any thoughts on technique (how many passes, tool speed, product usage) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again for these amazing write-ups - they were very informative.

I won't go with a non-forced rotation unit. I see no issues with finishing on either unit and have zero interest in working with a unit that isn't forced.

Question/statement was not for you.

[mbpress01]

Since you have a 3401 that took care of the heavy work..why didn't you go with the Mark 11 15, instead of another forced rotation? IMO the Mark 11 finishes better than any forced rotation.

Excellent question and the answer is I don’t have good technique with the rupes big foots. I had the mark I, the griots boss and the rupes 21, rupes duetto, and the trusty old porter cable and not once was I able to keep the pad spinning on curved panels.

I have explored this issue in depth and the jury is still out. Many forum members claim they never stall with the rupes mark 1 or 2 and a bunch of other members say it stalls every time it hits a curved panel (this is my experience). Instead of over thinking it, I just go with forced rotation and just figure the right pads and liquids. Mike P says (paraphrase) that it’s the abrasive technology that make the difference - not the tool - so get the right abrasive technology for the job and pick the tool that suits you best. Now that rupes really has proven to be the leader in tools - although flex is great who really needs a battery operated tool - I am all in with rupes. Companies that innovate get my dollars. Current setup - 2 rupes Mille, the mini rupes, ibird nano, all their pads and liquids and their little swirl finder light for good measure. I will test it all out and see how it goes and report back if anything occurs out of the ordinary. Thx for the question.

[Rsurfer]

Excellent question and the answer is I don’t have good technique with the rupes big foots. I had the mark I, the griots boss and the rupes 21, rupes duetto, and the trusty old porter cable and not once was I able to keep the pad spinning on curved panels.

I have explored this issue in depth and the jury is still out. Many forum members claim they never stall with the rupes mark 1 or 2 and a bunch of other members say it stalls every time it hits a curved panel (this is my experience). Instead of over thinking it, I just go with forced rotation and just figure the right pads and liquids. Mike P says (paraphrase) that it’s the abrasive technology that make the difference - not the tool - so get the right abrasive technology for the job and pick the tool that suits you best. Now that rupes really has proven to be the leader in tools - although flex is great who really needs a battery operated tool - I am all in with rupes. Companies that innovate get my dollars. Current setup - 2 rupes Mille, the mini rupes, ibird nano, all their pads and liquids and their little swirl finder light for good measure. I will test it all out and see how it goes and report back if anything occurs out of the ordinary. Thx for the question.

Use the Mini and ibred for curves and tight areas, the Mark 11 should take care of the rest.

[dlc95]

Excellent question and the answer is I don’t have good technique with the rupes big foots. I had the mark I, the griots boss and the rupes 21, rupes duetto, and the trusty old porter cable and not once was I able to keep the pad spinning on curved panels.

I have explored this issue in depth and the jury is still out. Many forum members claim they never stall with the rupes mark 1 or 2 and a bunch of other members say it stalls every time it hits a curved panel (this is my experience). Instead of over thinking it, I just go with forced rotation and just figure the right pads and liquids. Mike P says (paraphrase) that it’s the abrasive technology that make the difference - not the tool - so get the right abrasive technology for the job and pick the tool that suits you best. Now that rupes really has proven to be the leader in tools - although flex is great who really needs a battery operated tool - I am all in with rupes. Companies that innovate get my dollars. Current setup - 2 rupes Mille, the mini rupes, ibird nano, all their pads and liquids and their little swirl finder light for good measure. I will test it all out and see how it goes and report back if anything occurs out of the ordinary. Thx for the question.

In my experience it just comes down to the technique some people enjoy or get used to using.

I can spin an original PC all over most curves and contours - no problem - Unless I'm using the traditional orange and white pads... Then it's a pain.

But the other things are pressure, and keeping the pad flat. I find that a lot of people who come to me for help polishing use too much, hold the tool at an angle without realizing it, or a combination of the two. Too much pressure, and they slow rotation down too much. Off canter, and they'll get almost no rotation. The combination gets no rotation. A lot of times the pad is just barely at an angle, and it goes unnoticed. When they address that issue, It's like they unlocked a mystery!

I like to encourage people to first address their technique, and if the habits can't be adjusted, then to go with a tool that suits their needs. Sometimes that mean stepping up to a forced rotation.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

IMO the Mark 11 finishes better than any forced rotation.

Paint that's on the softer side, no doubt about it.

[Krypt0n1te]

Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!

1. The blue foam will cut more than the yellow wool.

2. The yellow pad will definitely be able to remove hazing from the blue wool.

3. The yellow foam pad should finish without issue on 99% of paints. It's more so the polish used that will dictate finishing results.

For the most part, I don't think the blue foam is needed. The blue wool will take care of anything the blue foam would. The blue wool can be used as a 1-step on some paints.

[TTQ B4U]

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad? Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

I will defer to WRAPT as I've not used their Yellow Wool / compared it to the blue foam.

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

Yellow will work just fine at removing the haze and will finish out beautifully. Just keep an eye on soft Honda or Subaru Paint and adjust your polish appropriately. Polish is more important than pad.

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Yellow will work just fine and finishes out great. I do have a full set of white pads for soft paints and for my own personal vehicles as I tend to enjoy refining their finish more than usual before coating them.

1. The blue foam will cut more than the yellow wool.

2. The yellow pad will definitely be able to remove hazing from the blue wool.

3. The yellow foam pad should finish without issue on 99% of paints. It's more so the polish used that will dictate finishing results.

[WRAPT C5Z06]

Check out this video from Rupes. Awesome information....

YouTube

[Ronin47]

Hi Guys!

TTQ B4U, thank you for this thread.

Anyone out there that can assist I would really appreciate it.

I own the Rupes Mille deluxe kit that came with the 4 pads and the 2 compound/polishes. This is my first polisher ever so nothing to compare against and really just still learning and experimenting.

So here are my 3 questions...

1. I know the Blue Wool pad is the most aggressive with the Yellow Foam pad the least aggressive, but how does the Yellow Wool Pad compare to the Blue Foam Pad?

Does the Blue Foam pad cut more than the Yellow Wool pad or vice-versa?

2. Let's say I use the Blue Wool to cut, it is fine to directly after that finish with the Yellow Foam, in other words, will the least aggressive pad I have (Yellow Foam) remove hazing and marring from my most aggressive pad I have (Blue Wool) or should I use something inbetween?

3. Will the Yellow Foam pad give me a really well-defined finish or is it better to invest in some White pads and accompanied polish for a more refined finish?

Thanks, Guys!

1. For me the Yellow wool cuts better, leaves a better finish and is more durable than the blue foam.
2. Yes
3. Yes