It goes without saying the Rupes Bigfoor LHR tools are extremely well engineered outstanding tools. Many swear by the washer mod, and now I am seeing the sandpaper mod which allows the backing plate to spin more freely. What is the reasoning behind having the backing plate basically up against the shroud (is that what you call it) and not able to spin free? There must be a reason the tool was designed that way.
The shroud is there as an 'anti-spin' device. It serves a few functions as it has been explained by the engineers in Italy.
a) RPM and safety concerns - certainly none of us are free spinning our machines in open air, but reducing the RPM of the plate is a safety feature to prevent foams and plates (which do have a threshold for safe RPM tolerance) from catastrophic failure. Certainly no one is going to be killed by foam pad shrapnel, but the regulations exist that require foams to be RPM rated and the devices on which they are used to prevent rotation in excess of that rating.
b) Preventing excessive rotation - the tools, pads, compounds are designed to work as a system and that system is designed with a pretty specific RPM range in mind for maximum performance. We can all argue that more rotation equates to better correction to a point, but there is a point where excessive rotation can become detrimental to the process as well as increase the 'risk' factor to the operator creating an undesired result (overheating a pad, cooking the compound, burning an edge however unlikely) so the shroud works like a safety brake to slow rotation to the levels the engineers found optimal with the system.
c) Compound sling - the pad is stopped quickly from free spinning once the machine is shut down, this prevents unwanted compound sling. Again... few of us are lifting the pad off the surface while its still rotating, but this does prevent that cast off issue.
With Mark II RUPES recognized that the market has caught up (skill wise) with large orbit tools. If anyone remembers back to when BigFoot first showed up a number of people struggled to grasp the concept and apply it correctly. Polishing like it was a PC 7424xp, pressing hard down, cooking pads and getting poor results. As the general competency of the operators has improved Mark II delivers the additional power to continue the rotational movement regardless of panel shape, thus somewhat defeating the need for shroud over-rides. I'd challenge anyone to show me improved performance on a 15 Mark II modded over the stock configuration.
Todd can elaborate more as well, but thats my info direct from the source as it has been explained to me and my personal observations with the tools (modded and unmodded)
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Excellent answers. I have the first gen, and I am not sure it actually really benefits from the washer mod. Maybe it feels like it does, but I felt like it was more apt to stall on curves with the mod than without. It definitely lost a tad of the smoothness with the mod. At least I can easily unmodify it and do quick comparisons. For those that are using sandpaper to grind down the shroud, that cannot be undone.
Ive always personally felt that users who complain about lack of power or stalling with DA Tools need to hone in their technique, rather than simply need more power.
Excellent answers. I have the first gen, and I am not sure it actually really benefits from the washer mod. Maybe it feels like it does, but I felt like it was more apt to stall on curves with the mod than without. It definitely lost a tad of the smoothness with the mod. At least I can easily unmodify it and do quick comparisons. For those that are using sandpaper to grind down the shroud, that cannot be undone.
Ive always personally felt that users who complain about lack of power or stalling with DA Tools need to hone in their technique, rather than simply need more power.
My other reason for doing the mod is to allow the pad to spin freely when I blow them out with air after each section. If you like the tool without the mod then by all means keep it stock.
Originally Posted by CieraSL
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Another thing to keep in mind, is to lubricate the shroud every once in a while. If it dries out, or if you clean it you will experience excessive drag and excessive wear.
I actually prefer the shroud engaged. I didn't notice any increase in performance with the washer installed. Infact, it prematurely dried out my compound.
Another thing to keep in mind, is to lubricate the shroud every once in a while. If it dries out, or if you clean it you will experience excessive drag and excessive wear.
I actually prefer the shroud engaged. I didn't notice any increase in performance with the washer installed. Infact, it prematurely dried out my compound.
YES! Excellent point. Every so often put a few drops of dielectric grease (or a dab of vasoline if you don't have the grease on hand) on the backing plate and spin it a few times by hand. This will prevent the shroud from binding or wearing away prematurely. Its especially important if you change out the plate for a new one. The plates are not lubricated at all when they're sold separate from the tool and a new plate will give you burnt rubber smell without any lube.
YES! Excellent point. Every so often put a few drops of dielectric grease (or a dab of vasoline if you don't have the grease on hand) on the backing plate and spin it a few times by hand. This will prevent the shroud from binding or wearing away prematurely. Its especially important if you change out the plate for a new one. The plates are not lubricated at all when they're sold separate from the tool and a new plate will give you burnt rubber smell without any lube.
Super Lube Synthetic Grease works really well for that purpose.
I put four tiny dabs around the plate, and like you said, move the plate around by hand. I use paper towel to wipe off any build up around the perimeter.
The grease stays with me in the travel bag, in a separate plastic bag (in a pocket). Just in case I'm out away from home doing a job, and need it.
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Originally Posted by custmsprty
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