Waxing with a DW849X: Suggestions and tricks?

[Serginho]

I know what I'm asking the first answer I could get is "get a DA" or something like that; but here in Argentina they're extremely prohibitive (USD 400 for a PC, and Rupes and Flex models start at USD 700 and can go up to USD 1100!!!)... but you can get a decent rotary for about USD 180 and 250 the most expensive ones (I've got my bumblebee last year for USD 160; and the another decent rotaries are mainly bosch and metabo... because the makita distributor don't bring the 9227 model). So, at this moment for me, a DA is not an option.

Because I'm used to work with angular grinders (dad is a blacksmith, so, time to time I help him), It wasn't too difficult to start with a full-size rotary to polish... But I wanna know if it's possible to spread wax with a rotary.

Up to now, I use my polisher with a 5" backing plate and 5.5" pads and I feel the machine pretty maneuverable... most of the pads I use are from 3D Detailing or Sonax, because lake country ones are a bit harder to find here (long story implying customs office)

I have two HD 3D red applicator pads to use, and I want to spread two layers of collinite 476s and a final layer of 915. I've read some people using a putty knife to spread the wax in the pad, which i think is the best way to work with the collinites, because the cans' border keep the wax block trapped into them.

The main question is about the speed to set the polisher up, and if there's a kind of note about the technique to spread it, and how many passes are fine to get the job done.


Cheers,


Sergio

[jamesboyy]

Some say its not recommended to spread wax with a rotary cause the risk of paint damage is greater though if you still wanna go that route be sure to spread the wax on a red pad with either your finger or butter knife and use a low speed setting like one then press the pad firmly on the panel only using the weight of the machine spread the wax in overlapping passing three times side to side and three times up and down
then with a plush microfiber towel folded in fours fan the panel once or twice then drop the towel onto the waxed panel and buff off any left over product then flip towel over to a clean side and remove any missed product.....hopes this help

[Paul A.]

I can't disagree with anything jamesboyy offered and totally agree with the absolute softest pad you have and the lowest speed possible on the machine. Along with simply the weight of the machine and no exerted additional pressure and it should work just fine.

Remember, unlike working both pad, product, pressure and passes with defect correction all you are trying to do is simply transfer the wax from the pad to the paint in good, even passes.

I will mention though that even though i use my DA to apply wax and sealants, if i didn't have that i would apply by hand.

[Serginho]

Guys, after all I've tried it last friday on my GF's focus (it was holiday here in Argentina), and i'm amazed with the results!!!

I've did it as you said: red pad (previously soaked with a bit of QD and run the machine some seconds before to put the wax), the lowest possible speed (600 RPM), and distributed the wax into the pad with a putty knife... I've just needed to pass the polisher only once on each panel in a checkboard pattern to spread the wax uniformly and really, really thin; giving me enough room to spread the wax to the whole car, and then wiping it gently with a sonax MF towel.

The only thing, i've passed the machine faster than when I'm polishing: possibly because I hadn't applied any preassure at all with my hands and they moved completely relaxed... Possibly the hands movement was twice faster than polishing movement... And when the pad tends to be "caked", it's a signal of the pad being a bit full of wax, and moving to a new panel and start to waxing it, frees the wax and the pad comes to its best shape.

I don't have any sunlight photos yet, that i hope to take it this weekend.


Thank you a lot for your tips, guys!


Sergio

[jamesboyy]

I am happy to hear you had great success I also wanna thank you for keeping us informed and your always welcome.....happy detailing

[HateSwirls]

I NEVER used my rotary to apply wax, I do it by hand or with my DA.
Most of the time I apply wax by hand, just prefer doing it that way,takes more time but it's worth if for me

[HateSwirls]

Some say its not recommended to spread wax with a rotary cause the risk of paint damage is greater though if you still wanna go that route be sure to spread the wax on a red pad with either your finger or butter knife and use a low speed setting like one then press the pad firmly on the panel only using the weight of the machine spread the wax in overlapping passing three times side to side and three times up and down
then with a plush microfiber towel folded in fours fan the panel once or twice then drop the towel onto the waxed panel and buff off any left over product then flip towel over to a clean side and remove any missed product.....hopes this help

I don't think you'd damage your paint by using a rotary to apply wax, more so if you use a non-aggressive pad.
Of course you would use the lowest speed being your not correcting paint.

[Mike Phillips]

Two types of waxing by machine


Applying a finishing or non-cleaning wax/sealant

Applying a one-step cleaner/wax also called an AIO


For a finishing wax you want to use the softest pad you can obtain because theoretically the paint should already be clean, smooth and defect free. You would also use the slowest speed option and in the case of the Bumblebee use less than the weight of the machine.

All you're trying to do is spread out a film of wax, not grind into the paint to remove defects.


Here's a picture showing how to use less than the weight of the machine with a gold jewelling pad when we jewelled this Corvette here at a Thursday night project.


1990 Corvette - Extreme Makeover Pictures & Process


Less than the weight of the machine
This is showing that we're actually using a little bit less than the weight of the machine for the last few passes for this section.





After a soft pad like a jewelling pad breaks in, that is becomes wet with wax or polish the weight of the machine will compress the foam. If you've done this before you know what I mean.



For a cleaner/wax, in theory you're trying to remove defects, polish to a high gloss and leave the paint protected in one step. As such, you would be using a more aggressive pad and applying more downward pressure and using a higher speed. My money says anyone applying a cleaner/wax with a rotary buffer is going to leave holograms BUT they might not show up until,

• Time goes by.
• The wax or sealant is removed via washing and exposure.
• Viewed in bright overhead sun like I demonstrated here.

I'm a big fan of the gold jeweling pads like we use here to jewel paint. They are available in 4" - 5.5" and 6.5" (I think).


Jewelling - The same kind of technique you would use to apply a finishing wax using a rotary buffer.














Here's the after pics from this project, Jay went on to flip this car and make about $3000.00 after this buff-out.

[Serginho]

Mike, I'll get to grips with that suggestion! I know it's strange, and I really want a DA for these kind of final jobs... but it's a nosense pay USD 400 for a DA which isn't at least a PC, GG or Megs.

Again, thanks a lot for that tip!