requesting some help with rotary technique...

opie_7afe · 10-29-2011, 06:11 PM

well guys i need some HAAALLPP!!!(say it with a deep south drawl!) ok so i have my rotary which has been working great for me with the factory 7" backing plate and 9" sm arnold pads was fairly easy to control. well, i just got around to trying out my new LC 4 3/4" flexible backing plate and LC 5.5" flat pads well on my celica the body is really curved on the doors and such, so i try to buff and no matter what i do its like the rotary wants to move along with the pad, i tried less pressure,more pressure,pad is primed, not too much product, not too little product, centered best as possible. yet when i go to my roof which is alot more flat the pads are a DREAM to use compared to the 9" pads, i just need some tips on working with curved panels. the only way they dont hop around is if i tilt on edge and i do not want to get in the habit of doing that unless necessary.so rotary pros help me out!!! thanks in advance. ive watched probably all of mike phillips vids. besides the pay to view ones....

opie_7afe · 11-01-2011, 04:45 PM

wow....anyone? anyone? anyone? BUELLER!?

**buddhadog** · 11-02-2011, 01:43 AM

Originally Posted by opie_7afe

wow....anyone? anyone? anyone? BUELLER!?

Some panels do require some tilting while using a rotary . A flexible backing plate can help.

**richy** · 11-02-2011, 08:06 AM

I picked up a flexible backing plate from CG that I really like, but honestly, it's probably your technique. Your right hand should just be controlling the trigger, it's your left with which you will guide and work the machine. If you're careful, you can grip it around the head and guide it like you do a DA. Just be careful of the spinning shaft. Don't be afraid to man-handle that bad boy.

**kronos** · 11-02-2011, 09:35 AM

I use 5.5" pads with my Makita and I've noticed it only tries to walk on me when I use too little product or I don't have the pad flat to the surface.

**DLB** · 11-02-2011, 09:49 AM

Originally Posted by richy

If you're careful, you can grip it around the head and guide it like you do a DA. Just be careful of the spinning shaft. Don't be afraid to man-handle that bad boy.

I have started doing this more and more.

With different pads and different panels the sensation is going to be different. Remember that on a flat horizontal panel (roof, hood, etc.) that you have the weight of the machine + your pressure. When you are on anything else, you have to compensate for that, but not over compensate. Like I said though, the sensation changes quite a bit, and it is now time to man handle it like Richy said.

Aside from that and what kronos said, remember there's a balance also with what speed you use. I will change speed more than what I read others doing, it's just what works for me.

DLB

**BobbyG** · 11-02-2011, 10:38 AM

Foam pads on a rotary react a bit differently than wool pads.

I've found that I need to tilt the pad slightly in order to maintain consistent control.

A rotary polisher is more difficult to control than its dual action counterpart so maintain a good grip..

The amount of product also has a great deal to do with the machine wanting to walk away or erratically jump around. If the pad becomes dry the machine has a tendency to do what your describing. Try adding additional product to the pad, place it on the finish, then switch it on and proceed.

opie_7afe · 11-02-2011, 11:20 AM

i've never used a DA besides a wax spreader! and i don't use my bail handle either, just didn't feel right with the handle on it....guess i just need to practice on curved panels more. if anyone's polished a 94-99 celica well you know what im getting at, doors have no flat spots just curves...i will try bobbyG's advice about tilting ever so slightly on the curved panels, flat panels are no issue....just weird how i switch to smaller pads and its harder to control vs my huge pads....btw the 9" pads i have are the foam ones....the backing plate i have is this one:

thanks for the suggestions guys i will keep them in my mind when im polishing again...

**Wills.WindowsAndWheels** · 11-16-2011, 01:23 AM

Originally Posted by opie_7afe

i've never used a DA besides a wax spreader! and i don't use my bail handle either, just didn't feel right with the handle on it....guess i just need to practice on curved panels more. if anyone's polished a 94-99 celica well you know what im getting at, doors have no flat spots just curves...i will try bobbyG's advice about tilting ever so slightly on the curved panels, flat panels are no issue....just weird how i switch to smaller pads and its harder to control vs my huge pads....btw the 9" pads i have are the foam ones....the backing plate i have is this one:

thanks for the suggestions guys i will keep them in my mind when im polishing again...

I was going to ask what handle you're using lol. So are you palming it or using the 'stick' handle.

I gave my makita its first go (first experience with a rotary) the other day. I did about 6 section passes on flat panels just to get the hang of it. After that i went to the curved QP (ford taurus here) and was able to handle it FAIRLY well. I did notice the bucket handle was a PITA to work with, changed to stick handle and it was much better. This was also with 5.5" Hydrotech pads. I also noticed the drier the pad got the more it liked to try to walk on me. Good news...i actually got a hologram free finish on my trunk lol

Mike Phillips · 11-16-2011, 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by opie_7afe

well, i just got around to trying out my new LC 4 3/4" flexible backing plate and LC 5.5" flat pads well on my celica the body is really curved on the doors and such, so i try to buff and no matter what i do its like the rotary wants to move along with the pad,

My guess is it's the curved or protruding portion of the panel causing the characteristic you describe as you'll end up getting more pressure to one section of the face of your pad than the others.

For others reading this into the future...

Flexible Backing Plates for Rotary Buffers

Trends: Flexible Backing Plates

Here's a picture of the three flexible backing plates of which at this time we have the to larger versions in stock.

On Autogeek.net

3" Flexible Backing Plate - Not in stock yet

5" Flexible Backing Plate

7" Flexible Backing Plate - Link to be added today

Meguiars Solo Easy Buff W66 Rotary Backing Plate 6 Inch

Originally Posted by opie_7afe

i tried less pressure,more pressure,pad is primed, not too much product, not too little product, centered best as possible. yet when i go to my roof which is alot more flat the pads are a DREAM to use compared to the 9" pads,

Smaller pads on any tool make the tool more user-friendly, especially a rotary buffer.

Again, for people reading this into the future...

Trend: Backing Plate Extensions for Surgical Precision Buffing

The adapter acts as an extension which allows me to better see where the pads touching the paint as I buff and also works sometimes to give you enough clearance to buff into tight areas.

Originally Posted by opie_7afe

i just need some tips on working with curved panels. the only way they don't hop around is if i tilt on edge and i do not want to get in the habit of doing that unless necessary.

One of the things I practice is to always buff flat whenever I can buff flat. If the panel is shaped in a way that you cannot buff with the pad flat to the surface then you have no other option to go up on edge or switch to an even smaller pad.

Trend: Small buffing pads

Here's some techniques I use...

Hold the rotary buffer close to your chest with your shoulder, arms and back muscles tightened, not loosey-goosey like I've seen recommended over the years. You want to have control over the buffer you don't want the buffer to have control over you.

I demonstrate this in all my classes by having someone hold a rotary buffer in their hands with their arms extended outward from their body. Then I tell them to try to hold it still in one place while at the same time grabbing it and moving it wherever I want. The point is the further away from your body you hold the rotary buffer the less leverage or control you have over the tool and the more control or leverage the tool has over you.

Then I have them hold the rotary buffer close to their chest and tighten up their arms and ask them to hold it still in one place. Next I grab it with my hand and try to move it around and it's very difficult because they have mover leverage over the tool than I do.

Kind of a simple analogy but it works. The more intricate the area you're buffing, the closer you and the buffer should be to the paint.

IMPORTANT
For the above reasons to hold the rotary buffer closer to you, it's really important that you never wear any loose jewelery, necklace, tie or even loose clothing because you don't want any of these items getting caught into the rotating pad. Not a good or fun experience.

This is a real simple one but it's also very true...

Clean your pad often or switch to a clean, dry pad

It's so easy to prove to yourself how much of a factor a clean pad is when using a rotary buffer or any tool. Simply buff till your pad is well broken in and wet with product and then lock into your memory how it feels to buff with that pad.

Now replace the used pad with a clean dry pad and buff in the same way and take note as to how much easier and better the buffing experience is.

Hope the above helps a little...