What am I doing wrong :( Holograms after using a rotary buffer

[Chatelaine]

When we compare here Are you talking 85RD or 85U

I'm looking at your site and where it says PO85RD it's showing a bottle of PO85U. Do you mean Final Finish (PO85U) or Micro Polish (PO85RD).

Menzerna Polish PO85RD, Mernzerna 85rd, Menzerna po85rd

That picture is PO85U, for ceramic clear coat, but it says its PO85RD for some reason?

[Chatelaine]

I use the left one

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Sorry I use #7 by hand and #3 with a polisher.
But I'm sorry, I just like the #3 shine better on black cars. It's just opinion.
I don't know how you mean play with it more?

To get the right technique to work the polish. I know you are not working the 85rd completely because you are saying #3 looks better. Like I said above there is no way. Try working the 85rd a little longer, it turns transparent with oil streaks through it and you know it is done. I understand your opinion, but if 85rd or even the PO85U are worked correctly they going to look better than #3, no ands, ifs or buts about it. #3 was a great fininishing product years ago, I know, I used a ton of it, but the above finishing polishes are alot better.

When we compare here Are you talking 85RD or 85U

I'm looking at your site and where it says PO85RD it's showing a bottle of PO85U. Do you mean Final Finish (PO85U) or Micro Polish (PO85RD)

Menzerna Polish PO85RD, Mernzerna 85rd, Menzerna po85rd

That picture is PO85U, for ceramic clear coat, but it says its PO85RD for some reason?

I am talking about 85rd, PO85U is finishing polish II and is used on softer paints by some. It is also a very good finishing polish.
You have a older bottle of the 85rd, the more colorful picture they have is correct but with an updated sticker. Always go by the numbers on the bottom of the bottle. If you have 85rd and PO85U try the 85u on softer paints. Matter of fact I am using some on an 92 accord as we speak just because it works better with the soft paint. I also use alot of 3M Ulltrafina as a finishing polish.
Just a heads up also if #7 is enhancing your finish, then you left some gloss/depth/clarity on the table during your final polishing stage. This will also give you a little guide to tell you that you didn't work the 85rd or 85u completely.
I am not trying to give you a hard time about #3, just trying to let you know if you work the 85rd or 85u correctly nothing is going to enhance the finish. I use to use #3 and #7 all the time way back when but there isalot better stuff. I wouldn't tell you this if I never used the products myself and have a handle on how they work. So basically what I am telling you is give the Menzerna polishes another try and try a few different ways of working them and you will be rewarded with the best finish you have ever had.

Also what Loudog and Deepgloss were telling you was correct also.

[Chatelaine]

Hmm well your advice is very convincing. Problem is I do work them until theyre properly broken down and clear. Perhaps I should go back to CCS pads? Although I was not happy with them.

Bah

What CCS pads would you recommend with the makitta and menzernas? Link?

[ASPHALT ROCKET]

Hmm well your advice is very convincing. Problem is I do work them until theyre properly broken down and clear. Perhaps I should go back to CCS pads? Although I was not happy with them.

Bah

What CCS pads would you recommend with the makitta and menzernas? Link?

I use the Kmopressor pads and I usually do all my finishing with a blue 5 inch CCS pad. All this is done with a rotary.

[Chatelaine]

I am talking about 85rd, PO85U is finishing polish II and is used on softer paints by some. It is also a very good finishing polish.
You have a older bottle of the 85rd, the more colorful picture they have is correct but with an updated sticker. Always go by the numbers on the bottom of the bottle. If you have 85rd and PO85U try the 85u on softer paints.

If you go on the Menzerna website, PO85U is Final Finish

I believe there is a mix up

[Mike Phillips]

Getting a finish to 100% hologram or swirl-free using ONLY a rotary buffer is very hard to do, even if you're good at this kind of thing.

If your expectations are 100% swirl-free in bright light after stripping the finish and with no wax or paint sealant on it all, then first dial in a system you can prove works to just on small area before going over the entire car.

Again, this is hard to do because when you have a pad rotating in a circular motion on a coating that is easily scratches, then even with the best product the best foam pad technology and the best technique, it's still very hard to do. Sometimes it's not even about your skills or product selection, it's about the paint as not all paints buff easy.

Technology has come a long way and this makes it easier to get 100% swirl free results after chemically stripping any fillers off and then viewing the results in overhead bright sunlight in August or using some kind of artificial lighting, but again it's hard to do.

That's why many pros, as good as they are will do the best the can with the rotary and then change the action of the tool by switching over to a dual action polisher and re-polishing the paint to insure the circular fine scratches, (that's what holograms are), are worked out by the oscillating action of the dual action polisher.

I've done some testing over the years on just this type of work, almost always on black paint as light colors are too forgiving to be trusted. Creating a swirl-free finish with only a rotary can be done but there are a lot of factors involved and you have to control and master each step.

That's why you want to make sure you can make one small area look great before going over the entires vehicle.

Applying a quality wax or paint sealant will mask fine holograms but if your goal is show car perfection, for whatever your reasons, then dial in your system first to a small area then tackle the entire car.

It's pretty hard to beat the clarity and gloss you can achieve with just a rotary buffer, a foam finishing pad and a quality finishing polish in the garage, but stripping the paint bare and pulling that same section of paint out into bright sunlight will usually show you different results and perfection for most people is pretty hard to reach.

[Mike Phillips]

Sorry I use #7 by hand and #3 with a polisher.
But I'm sorry, I just like the #3 shine better on black cars. It's just opinion.
I don't know how you mean play with it more?

Both of these are non-abrasive polishes. Most people think that if the word polish is used on the label then there must be something in the bottle with the ability to abrade paint but that's not always true.

At this time there are no Wax Police, probably because there's no budget but give them enough time and it will probably happen. By this I mean wax and polish companies are free to use whatever word they like to describe their products and an example of this is some paint sealants are labeled with the word polish.

Meguiar's introduced M03 Machine Glaze by the 1930's for sure and maybe in the 1920's, so it's been around a long time and although the label shows a cut level of 1 it doesn't contain any ingredients with the intended purpose of abrading paint. So any cut you get from it is from your application material and process, this means your buffing pad the machine your buffing pad is attached to.


It will fill swirls but it likely won't remove them. It will do what you stated you're seeing and that's create a deep, wet shine.

To work out the holograms, buffers swirls, buffers trails, (These terms all mean the same thing), you need a light cutting product and a finishing pad and a soft touch for your final passes with a rotary buffer and in most cases you'll still need to re-polish each square inch using a tool that doesn't just rotate a pad on the surface.

[bogdansbg]

Menzerna pads are one of the best ever. I use them with any products because they are very durable and performance is high.

I will give you a hint that's not a secret Use pressure when using Menzerna. When you start working, right at the beginning use high-pressure, after 3-4 passes use less pressure.

That's good because you work the abrasives at optimal capacity .

Ah and one more things: When I use Menzerna for cuting and polishing I use speed 5 and 6 at Dual-Action Polisher Menzerna likes highspeeds

All the best.

[Chatelaine]

Menzerna pads are one of the best ever. I use them with any products because they are very durable and performance is high.

I will give you a hint that's not a secret Use pressure when using Menzerna. When you start working, right at the beginning use high-pressure, after 3-4 passes use less pressure.

That's good because you work the abrasives at optimal capacity .

Ah and one more things: When I use Menzerna for cuting and polishing I use speed 5 and 6 at Dual-Action Polisher Menzerna likes highspeeds

All the best.

I didn't know menzerna made there own pads. That's good to know.

But I'm proud to say I just completed two of what I'd call, my first perfect finishes. I know it's hard to say perfect, but I've found a technique that works so well now, that I'm very confident with my outcomes.

This is what I did. SIP at 1700rpm on the makitta, 106FA 5-6, 85rd 5-6, both with PC starting with moderate pressure then lightening up and finishing with two layers of Liquid Souveran. Here's some pics while I was working, didn't take to many though.














This one was immediately after so same process but SIP wasn't required.