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I have 1 inch to 3 inch pads. Foam/wool/microfiber.
My compounds/polishes are - sonax cutmax and perfect finish. 3D One, gyeon primer.
I was going to use a cutting polish with a medium pad and gyeon on a finishing pad.
I read about the Zenith Point method earlier.
Always do a test spot and use the least aggressive first.Quote:
Originally Posted by noorth
Here's my take,
Even if you think you're not leaving behind holograms because you cannot see them... they are still there.
"touching" the paint with anything leaves a mark at the microscopic level.
I have no need to argue with anyone on this point as I've met a lot of guys that KNOW they can finish down hologram free.
I'm good with whatever they believe.
Me? I've done rotary-only details, here's one,
Bumblebee - Testing out the NEW DeWALT DWP849X
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Rotary Buffer steps completed...
- Compounding: 6.5" CS Orange Cutting Pad with Optimum Compound II at 1000 RPM
- Polishing: 6.5" CS White Polishing Pads with Optimum Polish II at 1000 RPM
- Jewelling: 6.5" CS Red Finishing Pads with Optimum Finish at 600 RPM
Resuts...
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Done
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Outside in the sun
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But in my heart of heart, I know there's a hologram scratches in the paint. So for me... I may start with rotary but now days I always finish out with an orbital.
FWIW
:buffing:
For those that want to finish out with a rotary, I think this is the SOFTEST foam pad on the market - at least at Autogeek.
CarPro Gloss Pads
CarPro 3.5 inch Gloss Pad
CarPro 5.5 inch Gloss Pad
CarPro 6.5 inch Gloss Pad
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I used the CarPro Gloss pad to finish out Plexiglass to be clear as glass - no micro-marring
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...kwindow_07.JPG
The above is from this write-up
Polishing Plexiglas to be as clear as glass using Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish
:)
The other HUGE factors when it comes to finishing down with a rotary only....
- The PAINT - as in paint hardness or paint softness
- The RPM
- The downward pressure
- The abrasive technology
- The skill of the person
- Heat
- Time
The above are a boat load of factors and here's the deal - do the rough cut with a rotary and then simply avoid any regrets or hassles and finish down with ANY BRAND of orbital polisher.
Even a Porter Cable will ensure a hologram-free finish.
:cheers:
That's the standard look cars have in Phoenix.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN
That's what happens when you use a rotary.Quote:
Originally Posted by John U
Thanks Mike, i actually have considered buying the gloss pads.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
I have to say all this information is rather disappointing, probably would of skipped the mini rotary if i knew this. However, for tight spots is it even possible to use a small DA? With the throw..?
Like i stated before i'm not looking for perfection.
Maybe i will just use it for spot correction around my bumpers. Its the main reason i bought it.
I can't believe how much my views have changed since I wrote this.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
Yes I am totally with you now.
I'd kind of forgotten about this. I'm glad I keep learning so much from this forum all of the time!
I think I have less ego now than I used too.
Actually The car I was talking about polishing up is coming next month, and yes I'll be using my free spinning DA!
Thanks Mike for your response and this definitely makes it clear for me. [emoji4]
Sent from my SM-G975U using Autogeekonline mobile app
From my limited use of a rotary I'd suggest using one mainly for cutting and using 5.5-6.5 inch pads. The larger 7-8 inch pads have more speed at the outer edge and are more likely to sling product. They also take up a larger area on small panels and tight areas.
If you have to use one for finishing, a waffle pad might be easier to work with than a flat pad.
Mike, that finish on that yellow is about as close to perfect as you can get.