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  1. #11
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    Be careful with 4" pad on the rotary. Also be careful on plastic panels, bumpers, side skirts, etc. Maybe stick with the PC on plastic panels until you get more comfortable with the rotary. I go through a hell of a lot more tape now that Im using a rotary compared to when I was using the PC.

  2. #12
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    Again, I thank everyone for continuing to provide their input. D & D, I've heard plastic has a tendency to shrivel under the heat of rotary buffers; however, does this happen very quickly or are there any warning signs? Additionally, is there any difference between buffing on aluminum in comparison to regular metal? The hood on my Cadillac is very light; I believe it is aluminum; atleast that is what my father in law thought.

    Thanks,
    Brandon

  3. #13
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    Also, why do you recommend exercising more caution when using a 4" pad in contrast to a 5.5" or 6.5" pad?

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by milabfocker View Post
    Again, I thank everyone for continuing to provide their input. D & D, I've heard plastic has a tendency to shrivel under the heat of rotary buffers; however, does this happen very quickly or are there any warning signs? Additionally, is there any difference between buffing on aluminum in comparison to regular metal? The hood on my Cadillac is very light; I believe it is aluminum; atleast that is what my father in law thought.

    Thanks,
    Brandon
    Not really any warning signs, it just happens. Itll happen quickly if you are using pressure and at a high speed. And by high I mean it can happen at as little as 1100. So if you want to use it on bumpers, then keep it at 1100 max and dont use anything but the weight of the machine. The machine will be vertical, so you'll have to guess. If you have a plastic bumper you can practice on, then go ahead and burn it so you can see what its like. Also be careful on edges and convex surfaces.

    As far as different surfaces, composite seems more prone to holograms and buffer marks compared to steel. But you can remove those fine with a finishing pad/ polish.

    Its easier to burn paint with a small 4" pad.
    Last edited by D; 12-04-2007 at 04:57 PM.

  5. #15
    SELF BANNED ASPHALT ROCKET's Avatar
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    Dan, very good point made about plastic bumpers. Go over them very lightly, they polish out fast.

  6. #16
    Senior Member StephenK's Avatar
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    there is alot of very good advice here and i agree with alot of it. as for the speed to run the rotary at use the range the polish company has recommended. for example: 3M perfect-it 3000 extra cut compound, swirl mark remover, and ultrafina se recommended speed is 1400-2000rpm. OPTIMUM line recommends 1000-1400rpm. which means it is safe to use the higher rpms. so if you wanted to go from 100rpm's to 1200rpms and you accidently goto 1400rpm's dont worry. the higher rpm's will get the job done faster with out drying the polish out to fast or generating to much heat on panel. . the company's put enough lubrication in the polishes and compounds to be worked at these speeds. visit a local body shop and ask them for junked panels to practice on. that way you can get a feel for the rotary and play with the speed and get comfortable. IMHO on a couple of those panels lay into real heavy and burn through the paint. tha way you will know what it looks like and how much/little it will take to burn paint.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detailing View Post
    ...Its easier to burn paint with a small 4" pad.
    A foam pad produces friction-heat (very necessary to breakdown diminishing abrasives)

    A 4-inch foam pad due to its relatively small area increases ‘spot’ friction-heat, which will start to melt and possibly burn plastic trim due to its relativly low melting point temperature

  8. #18
    Senior Member justin_murphy's Avatar
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    I used my rotary yesterday with some techniques that gtaindetaling aka Kevin gave me. He has been using the rotary for over 12 years now and never tapes up anything or gets any dusting. I couldn't believe the finish I achieved in such a short amount of time.
    Expect a full write up.
    Formerly "justin30513"

    www.clean4udetailing.com


  9. #19
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    If you're new at the rotary and you dont tape then you're just asking for trouble.

  10. #20
    Senior Member justin_murphy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by D&D Auto Detailing View Post
    If you're new at the rotary and you dont tape then you're just asking for trouble.
    Like I said in my post.......he has 12 years EXPERIENCE and does not TAPE.

    Never said that a newbie to the rotary should.

    I highly recommend getting some test panels and just using some QD on the pads first to just get a feel for this tool. I know it was hard to get the motions down at first after using the PC for so long.
    Formerly "justin30513"

    www.clean4udetailing.com


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