PBW Professional Polish

[grandprix2plus2]

What pad would you suggest using if you were going to use this just for a pre wax cleaner? I was going to then apply EXP and then Nattys.

Is this something that can be used 1-2 times a year when I completely detail the car(clay, polish/pre wax, seal, wax) Assuming the paint is in good shape.

[Dr Oldz]

What pad would you suggest using if you were going to use this just for a pre wax cleaner? I was going to then apply EXP and then Nattys.

Is this something that can be used 1-2 times a year when I completely detail the car(clay, polish/pre wax, seal, wax) Assuming the paint is in good shape.

For just a pre wax cleaner, I have had great results with a grey LC pad. Assuming ur paint is in good condition, this is a great way to take the least aggressive approach and leave the paint ready for any LSP.

[grandprix2plus2]

Thanks for all the info Jim! Seems like once I think I know what I'm talking about I read something else and I'm in the dark again. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

[Bunky]

I like pro polish. It is quite versatile as a multi-surface cleaner (glass, paint, chrome, headlights).

[mg6045]

I have a bottle of pro polish that I never used because I dont really understand what it is. I bought it as a chemical cleaner.

So if it has no abrasives in it, how can it remove 2000 grit ! wet/dry sanding marks, like it states on the back of the bottle ? Just with pad cut alone ?

Does the product have diminishing abrasive in it or no ??

[tuscarora dave]

If you take a clear chemical such as acetone or even mineral spirits and apply it to a microfiber towel and then rub the towel vigorously over the single stage paint on a car you'll see some paint transfer on the towel. If you switch to a cotton diaper type of material and do the same thing you'll see more paint on the towel because cotton has more bite to it than a microfiber towel. Now switch to a cotton terry cloth towel and do the same thing and you'll really be removing a lot of paint in comparison to the microfiber towel. Neither acetone or mineral spirits have any abrasives in them so how could they possibly be removing paint or more paint. It's a combination of the chemical and the texture of the media used to apply and work the chemical. The different grades or textures of the materials used in the towels that provide the mechanical abrasion to remove the paint. The same principles determine how much paint is being removed with the use of pro polish and differing pad materials/coarseness. It's actually quite simple to understand when you have a visual like I provided above.

A quick call to Steve or Pockets can answer your question as to whether there are any abrasives in the product. My guess would be that there are some fine abrasives in it and that's why it's white. Just a guess.

[Dr Oldz]

Great explanation Dave.

[mg6045]

If you take a clear chemical such as acetone or even mineral spirits and apply it to a microfiber towel and then rub the towel vigorously over the single stage paint on a car you'll see some paint transfer on the towel. If you switch to a cotton diaper type of material and do the same thing you'll see more paint on the towel because cotton has more bite to it than a microfiber towel. Now switch to a cotton terry cloth towel and do the same thing and you'll really be removing a lot of paint in comparison to the microfiber towel. Neither acetone or mineral spirits have any abrasives in them so how could they possibly be removing paint or more paint. It's a combination of the chemical and the texture of the media used to apply and work the chemical. The different grades or textures of the materials used in the towels that provide the mechanical abrasion to remove the paint. The same principles determine how much paint is being removed with the use of pro polish and differing pad materials/coarseness. It's actually quite simple to understand when you have a visual like I provided above.

A quick call to Steve or Pockets can answer your question as to whether there are any abrasives in the product. My guess would be that there are some fine abrasives in it and that's why it's white. Just a guess.

Dave, thanks for the in depth explanation. And I understand completely what you are talking about.

but I would personally like to know if theres abrasives in it.

I have some diminishing abrasive polish's that when used with a cutting pad can not remove 2000 grit sanding marks as they do dont cut enough. This makes me wonder how a chemical cleaner with "NO abrasives" in it can achieve this task.

Ive got a good handle on paint correction and have worked on my fair share of neglected cars with pretty much every machine around except a rotary. And in my opinion, I personally do not prefer to overdue a product just by upping the pad cut. IE: using 85rd with a yellow cutting pad just to achieve more cut. anytime I have tried something like that it usually trash's the paint and will force me to add an additonal meduim step polish to clean up the paint before finishing. something I would always avoid if I could.

Just to Note, I truly trust in your work that Pro Polish is a great product and you can achieve full correction with it and finsh great.

But this is strongly making me believe that there IS abrasives in the product. Which would make the marketing of "NO ABRASIVES" on the bottle a false statement.

The only other thing I can think of is in the past when I have seen a company put "NO abrasives" on a bottle, but there definition of no abrasives means that there product will not score the finish with something aggressive. an example is the 1Z consumer polish line. It corrects paint, but if you read the bottles, it trys to make you believe they are only chemical paint cleaners.


I do plan on using the Pro Polish. And I do understand the fact of use it and if it works thats all that matters. But I dont like when I have a mystery product that does not properly describe whats in the bottle. I have gone down that road too many times with companys like Chemical Guys. My latest example is the Blacklight radiant finish. I was applying it over LSP's only to find out months later that is has pretty potent fine abrasives in it that will clean and strip paint, and remove swirls on soft paints. I prefer to know what i'm using, is all im saying. Again, thanks for you time in explaining everything you have experienced with the product. I appreciate it.

[Pockets@PoorboysWorld]

There are of course very very very fine "abrasives" in the product

This however does not make it an abrasive product because in the chemical world and detailing world they do not count anything under x amount of cut an abrasive and that is where Pro Polish falls ...... so not false advertising as it is not correct to call it an abrasive polish it is in fact a chemical polish and works off of what it is paired up with for cutting abilities.

Get what I'm saying??

[tuscarora dave]

Here's one of the projects that I did with Pro Polish that I had taken photos of and posted. I did finish with SSR1 but I could have got Pro Polish to finish out just as well.

Red Subaru Outback Paint correction