Edging the DA... A Game Changer

**PAR Detailing** · 08-11-2011, 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by BillE

Thanx for posting this!

Gonna have to re-read it some...kinda early (for me) to totally get it yet, but sure makes sense.

Bill

No problem! Grab some coffee and give it another go.

If you have any questions please throw them out there.

Originally Posted by alko

Thank you very much for posting this. The MF system is my next purchase. Not only that but I was wondering if a DA was sufficient for paint correction after sanding. I don't think I'll be sanding anytime soon, but as I build my knowledge and skills, maybe one day. Mark sent me the suggestion for the 3" backing plate which I think I'll be getting as well (thanks again for that Mark).

No problem! The MF system has worked really well for me. I sanded the whole passenger side of the suburban and removed it with the MF system.

Originally Posted by mdb917

Excellent write up and the results speak for themselves.

I'm new to the world of power buffing so I'll leave this technique to the experts among you but I enjoyed reading about it.

Thank you, and trust me I am no expert, just an average Joe with more time on my hands then I know what to do with. Give it a shot

Originally Posted by Flash Gordon

Nice article Jon

Thanks Flash. So can I send you a pad and some compound to get you to try it out?

But seriously Ill get it in the mail today if you want.

Originally Posted by Marc08EX

Great how-to article John!

May I ask how's the length of the hook and loop fingers from the Mirka BP when you compare it to the W67DA?

Thank you, The hook and loop are exactly the same. The Mirka and the Megs use the short hook and loop rather than the long like the ones found on LC backing plates

**PAR Detailing** · 08-11-2011, 08:39 AM

Originally Posted by embolism

doesn't the bp stop when you edge the pad?

Will this technique work with a PCXP or GG6 or is it specific to the G110v2?

If you lay down on it then yes it will but you would be supprised at how much pressure you can put on it esp on speed 6 and not have it stop.

Yes I used it on my PCXP, G110, and GG6. (Yes I know I have all of them) I dont have the g110v2 just the g110 but it would absolutely work with the v2

**CEE DOG** · 08-11-2011, 08:49 AM

As I already mentioned Jon, excellent article!

Cool backing plate too!

**PAR Detailing** · 08-11-2011, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by CEE DOG

As I already mentioned Jon, excellent article!

Cool backing plate too!

Thanks Corey! I put in some time to get it together and its still not where I would have liked it to be but I wanted to get it out there. Doing this really makes me appretiate your reviews that much more. You invest alot of time in them... probably more than most think. Thanks for looking it over buddy

P.S. Do you have the MF pads and d300?

**Marc08EX** · 08-11-2011, 09:12 AM

Originally Posted by PAR Detailing

Thank you, The hook and loop are exactly the same. The Mirka and the Megs use the short hook and loop rather than the long like the ones found on LC backing plates

Thanks for the info!!

Yeah the LC BP has extremely long hook and loop fingers. I'm glad I bought the W67DA for my MF pads or else it would have prematurely worn the pads.

**PAR Detailing** · 08-11-2011, 09:18 AM

Originally Posted by Marc08EX

Thanks for the info!!

Yeah the LC BP has extremely long hook and loop fingers. I'm glad I bought the W67DA for my MF pads or else it would have prematurely worn the pads.

Ya I had a pad fail on me because I was using the wrong bp. It got way hotter and it failed eventually. So the right hook and loop is very important. Hard to believe but it is

Mike Phillips · 08-11-2011, 09:39 AM

Nice article Jon...

Originally Posted by PAR Detailing

Ya I had a pad fail on me because I was using the wrong bp. It got way hotter and it failed eventually. So the right hook and loop is very important. Hard to believe but it is

That's right... I cover that in the new e-book on DA Polishers...

Using a long hook will create more heat and lead to premature failure of not only the pad but the hook and loop materials, the adhesives, and the backing plate in general.

I have some micro-hook material here on my desk, trying to get a good close-up photo of it, completely different looking than j-hooks.

One thing I would like to point out about using a pad on edge with a DA style polisher, this is in the chapter on backing plates...

Not holding the pad flat to the surface
Another factor that causes DA Backing plates to break is anytime you hold the buffing pad on edge instead of flat to the surface. When you hold a DA Polisher at an angle so that more pressure is applied to just one edge of a buffing pad you create more force against the arbor where it mounts into the backing plate and against the spindle where the 5/16" arbor attaches to the DA Polisher.

Because the design of a DA Polisher incorporates an oscillating action the effect when holding a pad on edge is to have more force then less force, then more force then less force on the 5/16" arbor as well as the spindle.

The results are more broken backing plates and more broken DA Polishers. The oscillating action is already violent at high speeds under pressure, holding the pad with more pressure to just an edge of the pad increases fatigue of all the affected components.

Note that I'm just pointing out what's happening to the components of the DA polisher because of the oscillating action of the tool.

I'm not saying it's a bad technique or a good technique, heck everyone can find a way that works best for them.

It's only normal for anyone that's ever used one of these tools for any length of time to use it in all manners of technique...

Here's another type of edging...

Edging - Buffing the paint around edges

**PAR Detailing** · 08-11-2011, 02:24 PM

Originally Posted by Mike.Phillips@Autogeek

Nice article Jon...

That's right... I cover that in the new e-book on DA Polishers...

Using a long hook will create more heat and lead to premature failure of not only the pad but the hook and loop materials, the adhesives, and the backing plate in general.

I have some micro-hook material here on my desk, trying to get a good close-up photo of it, completely different looking than j-hooks.

One thing I would like to point out about using a pad on edge with a DA style polisher, this is in the chapter on backing plates...

Note that I'm just pointing out what's happening to the components of the DA polisher because of the oscillating action of the tool.

I'm not saying it's a bad technique or a good technique, heck everyone can find a way that works best for them.

It's only normal for anyone that's ever used one of these tools for any length of time to use it in all manners of technique...

Here's another type of edging...

Edging - Buffing the paint around edges

All very valid points Mike. I appreciate your input. I do agree people need to use caution and common sense. I have found this to work well for me and I wanted to share it with others who might not have heard of it.

**Thaboymike** · 05-14-2012, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by PAR Detailing

Ya I had a pad fail on me because I was using the wrong bp. It got way hotter and it failed eventually. So the right hook and loop is very important. Hard to believe but it is

I can speak for this as well. I had a pad fail when using the LC backing plate with a Meguiar's MF cutting disk. I've made sure to label my backing plates to prevent another event like this.