In time, soap and foam will seem barbaric.
Printable View
In time, soap and foam will seem barbaric.
Well it's kinda cool down in the garage and the WGU just dried faster for me. I use the same GG large waffle drying towels with all my washes and this is what I've seen during the past 2 days of using this product as both a RW and a WW.
Sent from my LGLS990 using Tapatalk
does this stuff have any hydrophobic properties to it?.... like if I applied it to a bare panel, even though it leaves no protection behind but does increase gloss would it also bead and sheet?
Post SEMA Catch-up day
Sorry for the late replay, kind of busy the last week...
SEMA Day 1 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 2 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 3 with Autogeek
SEMA Day 4 with Autogeek
:dblthumb2:
I just noticed that this product is not listed in the Waterless Wash product section of the store for some reason. You have to find it in the Wolfgang section.
Waterless car wash products, ecotouch waterless wash, griots waterless wash, optimum onr, automotive waterless car wash
Edited for corrections for dillutions
32 ounces is quart so cut the concentrate amount by one fourth - that would be,
1/4 ounce for clay lube
3/4 ounce for spray detailer
I think the above is correct I'm not a numbers geek but a car geek. :D
That would be fine...
:)
Of course... here's why I brought in a very cool muscle car...
New Flex Tool XFE 7 - 15mm Long Stroke Free Spinning Orbital Polisher
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=101585
I like to put things in extremes for questions like this to make it easy to understand.
The Wolfgang Uber Rinseless Wash will leave behind more than an alcohol wipe down.
Everyone will have their own technique for what works best for them and that's what's really important.
My normal method for using a rinseless wash is to fill the bucket up with clean microfiber towels and use one towel at at time. Then after using the towel place in a second bucket to take to the washing machine to wash and dry them for the next use.
This is also the method I teach in my 3-day ACR classes.
Nick asked me to try out the new rinseless wash mitt that he's very fond of and in so doing I also just used one bucket for the rinseless wash.
Normally for cars like I work on I use waterless washes as they are my preferred method but I will add that a rinseless wash does tend to provide more liquid to the surface and thus more lubrication and cleaning.
Besides that most of the cars I'm washing I'm washing because I'm going to buff out the paint so my main concern is removing any surface dirt not being careful.
When I wash a car to be careful it's usually my truck or the wife's Mercedes and then I use a foam gun with running water to rinse.
If northing's changed then the answer is "yes".
Cherry and it's delicious!
I like it because it's soft and plush but my preferred method of using a rinseless wash is to use simple microfiber towels soaking in the bucket of rinseless wash. Some people call this the Gary Dean method but Mike aka Setec Astronomy once told me there was another guy that actually started this method years before Gary. I don't know for sure as I never did the research to find out if this was accurate. I trust Mike's word but again I never looked it up to find out what the real story is but one thing I always do is give due credit where credit is due.
So I don't know who came up with placing microfiber towels into a bucket of rinseless wash and then after using one towel placing it aside and grabbing a clean/soaking towel for the next panel but I believe this makes sense. Especially if you're doing a maintenance wash.
I didn't for this car but think it's a good idea for dirtier cars.
You can use either. I do like the plush mega-million fibers of the 530 to both absorb liquids and provide a place for any dirt particles to bury into.
Place a microfiber towel that's saturated with the rinseless wash onto the dried bug or bugs and then work on another part of the car and let the water soak into the dead, dry bug guts and soften them for me to make it easier and safer to remove them.
I think I have an article from around the year 2005 on this somewhere.
No problem Chris.
I think I'm into about 45 minutes so far replying to all the questions in this thread using the multi-quote option in vBulletin.
It's Monday and I'm back into the office after SEMA so I'm playing catch-up.
To be honest I have not used it this way as of yet. It's a brand new product and I was asked to use it as the name on the label implies.
I do tend to use waterless washes the most for the majority of my detailing work so I will use it this way in the future and post a review.
Good question. :xyxthumbs:
Thanks...
I think I answered this previously in this mega-reply and also while I was at SEMA but here's the jist of my answer...
I prefer to use multiple towels soaking in the bucket of rinseless wash. This just makes the best sense to me. I also teach this approach in my 3-day ACR Classes.
My choice, I work on a lot of cool cars, muscle cars, classics, customs with a K and streetrods. I prefer to work on these types of cars and I've always noticed all of our TV Hero's also work on these types of cars. Nothing against daily drivers it's just they don't have the excitement and appeal as special interest vehicles.
For the type of cars I work on I normally use a waterless wash and that's because these types of cars are NOT 4-wheel drive, muddy. Thus I can get away with a waterless wash and to me a waterless wash is fast and easy and doesn't make the water mess of all other option.
I also as a "best practice" don't introduce water to cars where rust is an issue. This is my way of being a professional and also a professional courtesy to the guys that trust me with their cars.
As for one bucket or two buckets I think if you're going to use the wash mitt approach than you can use either one or two buckets but two buckets for sure will be safer especially if you're doing a maintenance wash. If you're going to buff the car out then the two bucket approach is still a better approach but one bucket will get you by.
So yeah... for most people using the single wash media approach use two buckets. For me... I'll probably stick with using a waterless wash for most of my work.
There's a seat for every person out there and each of us can find what we like the best, what works the best and then perfect out own technique and method to the madness.
I agree.
I was asked to showcase the new product and also the new wash mitt but normally I'll place about 12 to 15 microfiber towels into a bucket and draw out saturated towels as needed.
Sometimes it also depends on the car and how dirty it is or isn't. :)
See my answers above... :xyxthumbs:
Thank you. And since the photos are hosted on the AGO forum an not Photobucket or some other picture hosting site they are here to stay. Also each one is resized to 800 pixels wide so they show up perfectly on any electronic device and no one ever has to horizontal scroll.
For my own vehicles I do this,
- Wheels and tires first with water hose, Iron X. Car wash soap for my truck's tires and tire cleaner for the low profile tires on the wife's Mercedes.
- Iron X on the paint
- Foam gun and wash with Alien Worm Wash Mitts
- Rinse
- Re-foam and Cobra Clay Mitt
- Re-rinse and dry
For my customer's cars and for project cars most of what I do is waterless washes unless the car is a daily driver then a traditional wash like I describe above, that is
- Wheels and tires first
- Iron X
- Foam gun
- Rinse
- Foam gun plus Cobra Clay mitt
- Rinse and dry
If I'm using the Cobra clay mitt then I'm usually already planning on doing at least one machine polishing step to the vehicle. For my truck I use a one-step cleaner/wax as it is parked outside 24 x 7
No.
Those options to me sound like a recipe for potentially scratching the paint. Instead after washing and drying the car I will tend to use a Nanoskin pad on a DA Polisher.
For example my last 4 detail jobs were all waterless washes and one rinseless wash and then Nanoskin by machine or towels by hand for places I could not get a 6" Nanoskin pad.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=101565
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=101571
No. I would if I had to but so far I've never had to as we are not under water restrictions here in Florida so I use products like Iron X with a hose and running water to rinse off the residues.
Yes and no. It won't hurt or harm the coating in an of itself. If you wash your car with a brick the brick will harm the coating and the paint so stick with soft wash media.
It does impart gloss and that would be from some form of gloss enhancers and anytime you put "something" on or over the coating you then get the characteristics of the product on the coating and not the coating.
This goes for people that want to apply a Carnauba wax over a coating. The Carnauba was won't harm the coating but you no longer get the characteristics of the coating but of the Carnauba wax.
I keep our Mercedes coated, normally with Black Label Surface Coating but recently we used Blackfire Paint Coating. For maintenance I use Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Detailer and Booster and both work great.
DP's rinseless solution is very similar and can be diluted to make different products as well. I've been using it for a while and it's worked out very well, but this great write up is making me want to try out Wolfgang's version. For anyone who knows, how do the two compare?