You’re a BEAST Mike! That car came out Fantastic.
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You’re a BEAST Mike! That car came out Fantastic.
Impressive results all around, but more impressive is the documentation!
Great looking piece of history got the exceptional detail it deserved.
Thank you Scott. You know as well as anyone how much work goes into this type of classic car. Just the extra energy, both physical and mental, to do the work is taxing. It's not like buffing out a 2014 Beige Honda Accord.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sizzle Chest
I think he said he will, don't remember off hand. I'll ask him next time I see him. Super nice guy. Wants me to tackle an old 2-door Chevy for him next and it's a tick on the nice side too... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Sizzle Chest
Wow! That's a really nice compliment Billy. I like to lead by example. I personally wouldn't listen to or take instruction from a keyboard detailing expert and I wouldn't expect anyone else to either.Quote:
Originally Posted by Billy Baldone
I got my start detailing cars and I'll finish out detailing cars. Actually doing the thing I talk, type and video about keeps my information fresh and accurate as well as helpful.
The most important part of detailing this old Ferrari was,
A: Staying off raised body lines and edges as there are already thin spots. You buff or even rub by hand just a "little" on the paint in these areas and you'll just add more thin spots. The LAST thing anyone should do to this car or any car like it is use a compound.
B: Cover the cloth top. For anyone new to machine polishing - you have know idea how easy it is to get product splatter on areas besides the paint. With a smooth surface you can simply wipe splatter dots off, with a cloth top you have to somehow scrub them off and you never want to scrub on cloth tops especially antique cloth tops. Thus the reason I shared the Autogeek Cover-up Towels to cover and protect the cloth top.
I could have just detailed the car and shared a couple of after shots in the Show-n-Shine forum, but instead I used the different areas of this car to do my best to show others how to tackle them so if at all possible, they'll know what to do if they ever have this type of car to work on. Takes extra time to stop what you're doing and take a picture. Takes more time to do something with the pictures, but it's my passion.
The car took me about 14 hours from start to finish. Creating the 4 articles from the job probably took about 4 hours per article. Processing pictures takes a little time. First you have to move all of the pictures into a folder. Next you look through all of them and pick out the pictures that best tell a story. Next I rename each picture in numerical order, this takes a little time upfront but makes adding them to the forum MUCH FASTER during the writing step. Typing out the words in a way that most people can wrap their brain around what you're saying so they can understand, absorb it and then duplicate it is a bit of a learned skill.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2black1s
It was pretty close. I much prefer simpler work or simpler cars but I also appreciate the challenge cars like these present. I also know if the owners of cars like these get the "wrong detailer" they can screw things up real fast, so I like to help people that own cars like these.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2black1s
I usually tell them,
2 things happened here today,
1: The job was done right.
2: The job wasn't' done wrong.
It can seem like that's two ways of saying the same thing but it's actually 2 things. All you have to do to understand this is own a car that was done wrong the first time and then it will all make sense.
Thank you. I am part machine. I also don't take breaks. Not in my desk job and not when I work on cars. Once I start it's pedal through the firewall time.Quote:
Originally Posted by fly07sti
Quote:
Originally Posted by LEDetailing
Thank you for the kind words. I'm always a little let down in the actual quality of the pictures. I use my iPhone, it's a 10 series and the camera is "good" but not great. My Canon T6i takes much more accurate pictures as far as the overall color goes but it's so much faster to simply use my phone in most cases.
I put a lot of time and energy into this car and enjoyed the project too. I also like the owner and that's part of the job.
Thanks for all the comments everyone...
:)
Thanks for taking the time to document and share your work on this fantastic car! It is a cool car no matter who owned it, but even cooler knowing who did.
When working on older cars I feel I am part of the stewardship of the car, not just the guy who cleaned it up!
Thanks Mike. :xyxthumbs:Quote:
Originally Posted by mc2hill
Quote:
Originally Posted by mc2hill
That's a good point. The reality is - none of us truly own anything - we're just caretakers of our possessions until we move on...
:cheers:
Wow, nice job Mike on an incredible car!
Dang , I might try and polish the rear plastic window on the Porsche this spring using your technique when I do my first machine detail .
One of Dads sports car club buddy's Dudley had a 1954 Ferrari 500 TR he raced in the '60's very cool car.
Augie Pabst owned and raced the 500 TR before Dudley.
:bump:
Shared here,
What Polisher should I get? curvy panels
:)
Pinnacle Jeweling souveran Wax ... Love this stuff one question though can anyone tell me if this pinnacle stuff is body shop safe? thanks....
No.Quote:
Originally Posted by MPK1
Actually, there's a LOT of confusion over what is and what isn't BODY SHOP SAFE.
IF a product causes water beading - it's NOT body shop safe. Products that cause water beading are creating SURFACE TENSION - this is why water beads up.
If you take this same product into a body shop and somehow contaminate the shop or anything about to be painted - the surface tension would cause the paint to bead-up. This is referred to as fish eyes.
So "no" Pinnacle Jeweling Wax is not body shop safe and NOT wax, sealant or ceramic, graphene, quartz, etc paint coating is going to be body shop safe.
Make sense?
Lots of confusion and mis-information over this to
:)