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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
Thanks. I did some research and found that specifically, the URO Fiber 50/50
pad(s) can work well with primer polishes on harder finishes. In the future, I will look for micromarring after finishing.
I’ve used LC microfiber finishing pads in the past and haven’t noticed any marring. But I did see self-installed scratches from improper buff-off technique. [emoji51]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Encinitas
And this is why we all do a Test Spot or two...
:dblthumb2:
Just to add my 2 cents, any coating that would normally last over a year for you on bare paint, should in theory last the same or more on Z1. In other words, Z1 isn’t going to dissolve underneath in a year or less, taking your coating with it and wasting time of your multi-year coating.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacob Harrod AUTOCLEAN
I’m not sure if my point above was any concern of yours, but it shouldn’t be. Coatings on Essence can last a very long time and Essence doesn’t seem anywhere near as robust as what we’re reading about Z1.
Note: I have not used Z1 yet and I don’t think anyone will have tested it for a year, but I’m more just stating that primers are meant to help the product going on top, not hinder it.
What is the most extreme surface any readers have used this on without using any other polish prior?
Any experiences on a totally neglected surface to bring it back to decent life with only one step? There are, I’ve read some. So my real question is:
Any experiences using it to remove a strong LSP (a coating, CanCoat, newly applied polymer sealant)?
These questions may seem set up to identify AIO functionality versus primer functionality, and I guess that is why I’m asking.
For example, Essence generally shouldn’t be used to be the only polish/prime to remove a new, durable LSP, but I bet people have used it like that anyways. CarPro suggests compounding to remove a previous LSP if you are trying to start over with a new coating. To be safe, I’ve always compounded/polished before applying Essence unless the surface was already in really good shape and free of fresh LSPs.
I’m thinking AIOs should be expected to handle a one step even on paint that has a healthy LSP already. Just checking in real-life experiences of such a case.
You know I can and will read it brother! Thank you so much for curating this info for me, and for the absolutely amazing and DETAILED response! I'm thinking after reading that I'll purchase the Z1 Ceramic AIO Primer and accommodating Dr. Beasley's one year coating.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
This will be for a special little project. A burgundy Ford F150 with a step side bed.
:urtheman:
Did you find these reviews on YouTube or elsewhere?Quote:
Originally Posted by acuRAS82
I too am curious about the level of cut Z1 offers. The last AIO I used, Griots One Step Sealant, offered a surprising amount of correction on softer paint, but durability is lacking. I really liked it but knew it wouldn't do much on hard German paint. We've had a couple reviews here, but without an idea of the hardness of the paint or rough idea of the level of cut the product offers, I'm not sure how well it would work for me in some circumstances.
I am working on a horse trailer this week. It’s 17 years old and has never been detailed (polished or waxed), and has rarely been washed.
Being that it’s white, my before and after photos won’t translate that well. There is plenty of oxidation and some swirling on it. I have a fresh tube of Z1 that I can will try out.
But my fair warning, as stated above...
It’s white! I’m having a hard time seeing what’s happening, but it certainly passes the feel test. I’ve been using P&S Playmaker AIO and a 15mm DA.
Also, this is a courtesy detail and practice for myself. So no fancy lighting or extra measures. But I’m happy give the Z1 some work.
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17 years of neglect will test any AIO.Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Encinitas
I completely understand what you're saying and for this same exact reason and even MORE reasons - this is why I will not use white boats in my boat detailing classes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Encinitas
The students cannot EASILY see the before and after difference so there is NO IMPACT on them. At least not enough to go,
Wow!
Also - it's really hard to easily capture dramatic before and after differences via pictures and video when working on white and light colors. This is why I do my best to only bring in DARK colored gel-coat boats that have turned white from oxidation and neglect.
Looking forward to your results. Also - I recently used the P&S Playmaker, I have a review for it here on the forum and found it to be a capable product.
:)
Great results. Thanks! How hard was the paint? Body shop paint jobs I've encountered seem to be pretty soft.Quote:
Originally Posted by 98CayenneTA