Review: IGL Poly Ceramic Coating & IGL Compounds and Polishes - GREAT ABRASIVE TECHNOLOGY

[Mike Phillips]

Review: IGL Poly Ceramic Coating & IGL Compounds and Polishes - GREAT ABRASIVE TECHNOLOGY



FIRST - How's this look?




Here's the after shots....




























And here's what I used,


IGL Poly Coating















Poly Coating Review

This is a really nice ceramic coating. It has a 4-5 minute flash time and this is perfect for anyone that's new to ceramic coatings but it's also convenient for seasoned professionals too as you have plenty of time to wipe the just-coated panel to remove any high spots.

The gloss? Freaking amazing. Did you see the pictures above? Nuff said.



IGL F1 Compounds - F2 Polish - F3 Finish

I only used the F1 Compound and the F3 Finish for the paint correction process on this streetrod. I did use the F2 Polish when I did the section on the hood to show and reveal the layer of dirt that has impacted onto the paint.

These IGL products are TOP SHELF products. They perform as advertised. The compound offers excellent cutting and finishing with ZERO dusting and the buffing cycle is as long as you want to buff. The polishes act the same way, excellent cutting (for their category), zero dusting and forever buffing cycle. And just as important - all products wipe off easy.



Abrasive Technology

I talk a LOT about abrasive technology on this forum, on Facebook, YouTube and in my car and boat detailing classes and the reason why is because in my opinion and experience is the NUMBER ONE most important factor when it comes to polishing car paint.

Why?

Because it is the abrasive technology that touches the paint FIRST. Then the pad, behind the pad is the tool and behind the tool is the person.

I've now spent over 10 years on the Autogeek forum helping others to undo the damage substandard abrasive technology has inflicted into their car's paint simply because the product they used did not use great abrasive technology. After using these three products I can testify that the IGL compound and their 2 polishes use great abrasive technology.

After compounding the paint I inspected it with the new Speed Master Swirl Finder Light AND I almost didn't do the follow-up step of polishing with a softer pad and a less aggressive polish BECAUSE the compound finished out so perfect. Yes - I said perfect. Because I was doing what I call "Show Car Detailing, I did re-polish using the IGL F3 Finish with the RUPES 7" white foam polishing pad on the CBEAST.

I shared pictures of how many foam cutting pads I used on this car... a lot. And that's because wet foam doesn't cut. This is something else I have invested a lot of time sharing with people because I find most people use too few pads when doing the correction step, be it with a compound, a polish or an all-in-one cleaner/wax. These are the Lake Country 6.5" Force Hybrid Orange foam pads, one of my favorite pads when using the BEAST.

I also used the PiXiE and the Nano for tight areas and of course lots of the Forrest Green Edgeless Microfiber Towels.






On Autogeek.com

IGL Ecocoat Poly

[Mike Phillips]

Continued.....


This is the product I teased about in this thread,

New Mystery Product Testing - Review on Monday June 8th 2020 - HAMMERED 1937 Ford Roadster Streetrod









Here's some videos I took as I worked through this project.





Mike Phillips - New Product Reveal on this HAMMERED 1937...


Mike Phillips - Carson Top removed before paint correction.


Mike Phillips - Same old story - cool car - messed-up paint.




BEFORE Pictures



Here's the before condition.


Note all swirl shots were taking using the new Speed Master Swirl Finder Light.





















Dirt staining

The paint on this car has dirt staining that has impacted ONTO and INTO the paint.

This picture taken after a waterless wash and after claying the paint.























Dirt staining

The paint on this car has dirt staining that has impacted ONTO and INTO the paint.

This picture taken after a waterless wash and after claying the paint.





Dirt staining

The paint on this car has dirt staining that has impacted ONTO and INTO the paint.

This picture taken after a waterless wash and after claying the paint.






Dirt staining

The paint on this car has dirt staining that has impacted ONTO and INTO the paint.

This picture taken after a waterless wash and after claying the paint.













































Dirt staining

The paint on this car has dirt staining that has impacted ONTO and INTO the paint.

This picture taken after a waterless wash and after claying the paint.









Dirt staining

The paint on this car has dirt staining that has impacted ONTO and INTO the paint.

This picture taken after a waterless wash and after claying the paint.

[Mike Phillips]

Continued.....


Here's some shots showing just how dirty this paint was - as in dirt stained paint.







This is the IGL F2 Polish on a 5.5" CCS white foam polishing pad.






Here I found out this car is painted with single stage paint. You can see the yellow pigment on the pad AND you can see a brownish/grayish color. This is dirt staining on the paint over time.





See it? See the line between dirty paint and clean paint?










The paint is like this all around the car. Check out this before and after on the hood.




















This car will literally change colors after the compounding step.












The new Speed Master Swirl Finder Light works really well and having the ability to change the Kelvin and Lumen settings works really well.





NOTE: The results you see below are AFTER heavy compounding.

What do I think? Looks LSP ready to me.

What do you think?









Here's what I used for this project.





Some of my favorite tools....





Here's how many pads I went through.

Note the 7" RUPES white foam finishing pads that I used on the FLEX CBEAST.





Lots of towels

I actually used more towels than this but this should give everyone the BIG PICTURE and that is you need a lot of nice towels when doing paint correction and ceramic coatings.

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Before pictures of the canvas cloth convertible top


These live online classes are the real-deal. I don't do mock-up. Interestingly, I'm pretty confident I share MORE technique and meaty detailing information in these live classes than we ever shared on either of our 2 TV shows.


Here's the canvas top we'll be using to teach correct cleaning and protecting techniques.




When a canvas cloth top is in good condition - when it rains - water should BEAD-UP just like water beads-up on car paint.



Now follow me,

Do you see good water beading on the paint on this old 2-door Ford?










The answer of course is "no".


Now let's go deep.

If the paint has been neglected to the point that it no longer beads-up water....

Do you think the top was ever taken care of?

The answer is "no".

There is ZERO protection on this top. If there were any type of protection the surface tension would cause the water to bead-up.







Instead, the rain water is simply SOAKING into the canvas.




Real-world dirt or in this case, probably bird poo





This is what an UN-protected canvas convertible top looks like when it gets wet.






More pictures after the top dried...


From this point of view, the top looks normal or clean.




From this point of view, the top is dull and lifeless looking. It should be crisp and vibrant dark blue.





Dirt deep down into the weave of the cloth

This is the telling picture. In the same way you can see dirt has built up in the ledge at the bottom of the glass back window, dirt has also built-up over and inside of the weave of the entire cloth top.






Then there's a few places with some kind of spills or contaminants....

[Mike Phillips]

Continued....


Quick and easy tire detailing

I didn't get any great before pictures of the tires but just like the paint was dirty (dirt stained), and the top is dirty, see convertible top pictures above), the tires were dirty and ugly too.



Here's a couple from the before shots of the paint that shows the tires.








Here's how they look after machine scrubbing with a rubber/vinyl all-in-one.












It took me about 3-4 MINUTES for each tires. Process is as simple as 3-steps...

1. Spray rubber/vinyl cleaner onto tire sidewall.
2. Machine scrub tire with cordless rotary with brush attached.
3. Wipe and scrub tire sidewall with scrap rag to remove loosened grime and excess product.

Done.


A little bit of work and a huge improvement.



Here's something else to consider when cleaning and dressing your own tires.

Instead of looking for a LONG LASTING tire dressing, consider an all-in-one rubber and vinyl cleaner.

Why?

Generally speaking, long lasting tire dressings are DEDICATED dressings. This means they have no cleaning ability in and of themselves so the tires must first be pre-cleaned. No big deal, that's normal and you can do the dedicated cleaning step when washing the car. The thing about long lasting tire dressings is they tend to be solvent or oil-based, as in a silicone oil. These types of dressing last longer because they don't break-down easy with water. For example if you drive your car in the rain, or when you wash your car, the dressing will not simply mix with the water and run off the tires.

The problem with this type of dressing is because it's more difficult to remove - you cannot remove it. At least not easily.


Now follow me as I go deep....

If your car, or your customer's car is a DAILY DRIVER - the tires ARE going to get dirty. They're going to get road film on them, brake-dust and normal grime build-up. So a long lasting tire dressing doesn't stop them from getting ugly BUT a long lasting tire dressing is going to be harder to remove to REFRESH the look of your tires. This is what you want, a way to remove and then replace the tire dressing so it's fast and easy and you can quickly refresh the look of your tires.

So instead of getting a long lasting tire dressing and dealing with the mess that goes with them, get a water-based rubber/vinyl CLEANER & CONDITIONER. Because it has a cleaner, you can use IT to remove itself off your tires and at the same time it's conditioning and protecting the tire or in other words refreshing the look.


I learned this approach from Mike Pennington years ago when I was at Meguiar's. He always used Meguiar's M40 on his tires and company vehicle tires because.... it didn't last a long time. It was easy to remove an replace or refresh and thus quick and easy to always have your vehicles tires looking great.

A real out-of-the box way of thinking but it works.


The product I shared above is called Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner. It's 100% water based. Safe for use on all your interior rubber and vinyl include door gaskets, engine compartment gaskets, hatchback gaskets, and it also makes a great one-step tire cleaner and conditioner and protectant.

Heck most the time I don't even wash the tires I just machine apply this product, wipe off the excess with a scrap rag and I'm done. The next time I do this to the same tires it works even better. The more you do it, the faster and easier it gets.

This is what you want when it comes to detailing cars, fast and easy. And also consistency in results over time.


Pinnacle Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Conditioner





Machine scrubbing vs Hand scrubbing


You can do the same type of cleaning, conditioning and protecting by hand it's just a LOT more effective to work by machine. The human hand gets tired. The machine never gets tires.


Once you use a cordless rotary polisher to machine scrub tires you'll never look back -Mike Phillips





Machine Scrubbing


FLEX PE-150 Cordless Rotary Polisher

Heavy-Duty DA Carpet Brush – Long Bristles

Rotary 4 ¾ inch Flexible Backing Plate




Hand scrubbing

A short bristle length brush works best to hand scrub tires.

Low Profile Tire Brush

[Justin at Final Inspection]

Welcome to the IGL family. F1 is an absolute gem to work with.

[axel06]

fantastic job Mike !!

[Bruno Soares]

Wow, great before and after. Really saved that car.

[acuRAS82]

Amazing.

[Mike Phillips]

Welcome to the IGL family. F1 is an absolute gem to work with.

I used the IGL abrasive products and their Poly Ceramic Coating in our demo booth at Mobile Tech Expo. At this booth I always have a BLACK demo hood.

The paint my painter uses I beleive is Standox, it's in the medium range consistently and this allows me to consistently test compounds, poishes and cleaner/waxes to know whether the products are any good or not.

I was impressed at MTE and just as impressed when I did the paint correction work to this 1937 Ford Streerod.

Good stuff.

fantastic job Mike !!

Thanks Axel.

Wow, great before and after. Really saved that car.

Thanks Bruce. As predicted, the car completely changed colors.

Richness of color is maxed out and paint is super glossy.

Amazing.

It's all about what touches the paint. Anyone using these products and pads could have done the same thing.