Nice write up as usual Mike. Smart move by IGL to capitalize on the consumer market. It seems to have ruffled a few feathers in the IGL professional community from what I have heard.
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Nice write up as usual Mike. Smart move by IGL to capitalize on the consumer market. It seems to have ruffled a few feathers in the IGL professional community from what I have heard.
More....
Normally I use smaller pads on the CBEAST but due to the curved fenders and a few tight areas, like where the fenders meet the running boards, I used OVERSIZE pads on a smaller backing plate and this enabled me to shove the pad into these areas and because the CBEAST is gear-driven there was no pad stalling.
Some of my favorite tools....
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...7_Ford_072.JPG
Here's how many pads I went through.
Note the 7" RUPES white foam finishing pads that I used on the FLEX CBEAST.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...7_Ford_073.JPG
Also note the one 7" RUPES green foam pad amongst a see of Lake Country pads.
I've also been using the 7" RUPES pads on the BEAST and the Supa Beast and really liking them and using the 6" RUPES pads on both the CBEAST and the Porter Cable and also like them.
RUPES makes really nice foam pads.
:)
Thank you. I put a lot of work into saving the paint job on this car. I still have the nose on the hood to correct. It actually still looks like this,Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guz
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...7_Ford_061.JPG
The consumer or the "enthusiast" market is HUGE while the pro detailer market in comparison is tiny.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guz
I know of a couple other companies that have figured this out and changed course accordingly.
I have not heard or seen anything myself but I don't cyber-run in those circles.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guz
I don't blame professionals for wanting to earn a living and in the same context I don't blame IGL for wanting to earn a living for themselves and their employees.
Thanks for chiming in buddy.
:)
Interesting...wonder if Quartz might go consumer at some point.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Guz
Great review of the polishing products. I love to see the side-by-sides where the yellow looks almost to be two different colors after all the defects and ground in dirt is removed.
What are your thoughts on the IGL coating, Mike? You don't really say much about it. Any thoughts on how it compares to the new Wolfgang coating you reviewed a couple weeks ago?
As you know, I'm keen on educating others that the MOST important factor when polishing car paint is the abrasive technology. I always feel bad for people that buy junk products and then if they're fate brings them to this forum we help them to undo the damage - usually micro-marring - caused by the crappy abrasive technology used in the products. Paint is thin and besides taking off perfectly good paint with crap for abrasive technology is a waste of good (thin) paint, it's also a huge waste of time and resources. I've never met anyone that says,Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate
Yes - I'd like to buff out my car twice
(this is where I normally insert my articles on how thin clearcoats are thin)
The before and after pictures for severely neglected paint like I photo-documented for this car and product review are powerful. That's why I do this stuff. Would have made an even better YouTube video but I didn't have that option.Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate
Good observation. Here's why,
Besides what I wrote, it's really hard to say a lot about a good coating EXCEPT what I wrote.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
The thing about a conventional coating, (tiny bottle of liquid applied with a suede patch of cloth wrapped around a foam block), is it either works or it doesn't. By the word WORK I mean, the liquid either wipes over the surface or it doesn't and all coatings I've ever used, just like water (a liquid), they wipe over the surface. There's really not much more to say about the physical characteristics of the coating except for scent or odor and then the flash or EVAPORATION RATE of the product and I touched on both of these aspects in the small amount of text I typed out.
I didn't touch on the scent or odor but I will say it does have a strong solvent smell. This is not a negative it's just is what it is. I've noticed this about other brand name coatings too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate
Here's how I started my review for the Wolfgang PROFI coating - NOTE HOW WHAT I SAY is similar to the explanation I just typed about about describing how coatings work, as in they are a liquid you wipe over the paint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
Here's one thing the PROFI and the POLY have in common.
1: Within a short time - if you discover a high spot - you can use the coating to re-liquefy the high spot and then wipe it off instead of polishing it off. I shared that I had to do this with the PROFI due to shooting a video and vidoe work interferes with real-world work or in other words, where normally I would have wiped the treated surface, due to shooting a video more time when by and thus I had a high spot to remove and of course I removed it but used the coating to dissolve itself because this is my preferred method when and if it works.
What I didn't share in my POLY review, for no reason but in hindsight I should have, Andre came out and inspected my work and I missed some coating on the passenger side body. Andre was fooling around inspecting my work and discovered it. I'm glad he did because I was able to simply re-apply some of the POLY coating and then wipe everything off.
The one thing they don't have in common is the PROFI has a shorter window-of-time before it flashes and thus starts to cure or harden while the POLY has a longer flash time before it cures or hardens. This makes the POLY more Bubba-Proof but remember, it's marketed as a consumer level coating while the PROFI is a PRO GRADE coating and thus the differences in formulas.
Wow.... going so deep and I haven't even finished my coffee.
Great questions Nate - thanks for asking, I hope my answers help on the education aspect of coating application in general.
:)
Thanks, Mike. I appreciate the answers.
Things like flash time and the ability of both to fix high spots by hitting the spot a second time is a really nice feature. Actually, drama-free application is really good to know and your original review makes sense now.
Thanks again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Desertnate
Making sense is what I'm all about.... at least in the car detailing world.
:dig:
:bump:
For those reading this into the future. This first car I detailed using IGL Poly was when the product was first introduced. The car is actually a streetrod with a custom paint job that happened to be single stage urethane. In the same family of paint resin as modern clearcoats.
And - the IGL Poly Ceramic Paint Coating created an incredible glassy look to the single stage paint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
This last weekend I had the opportunity to use the new IGL Poly Ceramic Paint Coating on a brand new Pcar with the factory basecoat/clearcoat paint system. So now you can see and learn how to use this product on clearcoats.
Review: IGL Poly Ceramic Coating - 2020 Porsche 911 Carrera S
This is IGL Poly Ceramic Coating or as we say in the industry.... the glassy look!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...L_Pcar_027.JPG
:)