Review: Wolfgang PROFI Ceramic Coating

[Mike Phillips]

Mike,

Who was the Project Manager on this new coating? Hopefully they can come in and answer some questions.

• What where the key data points and objectives for this coating?
• What were the comparable target coatings that this is targeting to trying to be better than?
• What is our baseline we are trying to meet / beat?
• How is this different or better than the existing WG Uber Ceramic in the syringe?

Great questions Troy.

I wasn't the project manager for this or any products lately but I'll take a stab at your questions. Others here at Autogeek read this forum and if they want to add their 2 cents that's up to them. I think you already know I'm kind of the hands-on detailer here at Autogeek and that's why you see me answering questions daily and writing how-to articles weekly.

[*]What where the key data points and objectives for this coating?

Real simple actually, provide a long lasting protective coating that offers,

• Swirl and scratch resistance - like any other coating it's not an invisible force field.
• Provide excellent resistance to chemical attack, like water spotting from the pollution and corrosive substances in multiple sources of water.
• Provide excellent gloss and shine.
• Provide an extremely hydrophobic surface that offers a self-cleaning effect and faster and sager washing and drying.

[*]What were the comparable target coatings that this is targeting to trying to be better than?

My guess would be any coating on the market that also offers the above characteristics I listed plus is advertised to last up to 3 years.

Of course, you have no doubt read my article that talks about how long ANYTHING lasts on a surface. If not it explains i real simple terms that how long anything lasts depends on how the coating is "touched". Wash your coated car carefully with a clean, uncontaminated wash mitt or microfiber towels and it can last a long time. Wash your car with a brick? Probably not going to last a long time or look good a long time.

How long will a ceramic coating last on my car?

[*]What is our baseline we are trying to meet / beat?

See above answer.

[*]How is this different or better than the existing WG Uber Ceramic in the syringe?

As I've been typing in the forum world now for 18+ years, I'm not a chemist and I never try to play the role of a chemist in the online world, (or the real world), but I believe the Wolfgang Uber Ceramic Coating uses a different type of chemistry.


Hope that helps...

[Bruno Soares]

Doh! Bummer...would be nice if mfg's got away from that stuff. Oh my...just noticed they equated 9h pencil hardness to nearly that of a diamond...that's even worse. Not just misleading, outright incorrect.

Yeah, making claims like that really take away from my respect for a brand. Clearly the marketing team wants to say the same others are saying, thinking that if they don't make the claim people will buy competitors because they are 9H.
Another brand that recently updated their coating is McKee's 37 and they also made the 9H claim. It's a shame all these respected brands are going that route because the cheap ones that flood social media with ads say that too.

[DetailZeus]

I know everyone's situation is unique but I find another ~$100 coating difficult to swallow in these times.

That being said I'll be eyeing this for wheels since that is one place I think multi-year durability is pretty useful.

[Bruno Soares]

I know everyone's situation is unique but I find another ~$100 coating difficult to swallow in these times.

That being said I'll be eyeing this for wheels since that is one place I think multi-year durability is pretty useful.

On wheels pretty much all these coatings that claim 2 or 3 years on paint will last about a year anyways. There's just so much extra wear on wheels that nothing will last a really long time there. I think between 12 and 18 months is considered great on wheels and many coatings, even the dedicated wheel ones, can't get that far.

[Jim w]

I did not.

For most paints, the Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover will finish down LSP ready. It's a really nice medium cut polish.




Same answer as above.

They both work great and interestingly, they use very different abrasive technology but I would use either on black paint.

Mike, would it be safe to say swirl remover vs polish is depended
on paint condition and how soft or hard the paint is? Sorry for the
delay.
Thanks
Jim

[Mike Phillips]

Mike, would it be safe to say swirl remover vs polish is depended on paint condition and how soft or hard the paint is?

Sorry for the delay.

Thanks
Jim

Do you mean, you choose whether to use a MEDIUM CUT polish versus a FINE CUT polish depending upon the condition of the paint plus the hardness or softness factor?

The answer is "yes".

If from experience on your car's paint system you think you might be able to get the job done using a fine cut polish, this would be the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze, then test the Finishing Glaze first.

For everyone reading this into the future, I don't know who used the word GLAZE for the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze but it's NOT a glaze. It's a fine cut polish. Just the normal confusion the entire industry creates when people use the words glaze and polish wrong.

[MountainBound]

Wipe onto the surface to be coating, working in a 2 x2 square foot area

Just to clarify. Is the idea to work in a 2x2' area, let it flash, then wipe off and move to the next 2x2' area?

[Mike Phillips]

Just to clarify. Is the idea to work in a 2x2' area, let it flash, then wipe off and move to the next 2x2' area?

Yes.

I would 2' by 2' is as large as you want to work at one time and for most people it's probably too large simply because that's a lot of space to make sure you're EVENLY laying down and spreading out a thin, invisible liquid. Good lighting helps for this.

I'll share a picture later of the largest panel I've coated at one time and I'm pretty good at this and I thought it was a tick on the large size to tackle at one time.

Keep in mine - you don't have to work large sections at a time and it's easier to break large panels into smaller sections and work these at one time. Then after wiping the section, move onto a new section and overlap a little into the previous section.

[WBRacing]

For everyone reading this into the future, I don't know who used the word GLAZE for the Wolfgang Finishing Glaze but it's NOT a glaze. It's a fine cut polish. Just the normal confusion the entire industry creates when people use the words glaze and polish wrong.

Glad you cleared that up. I was confused. A glaze would put down something between the paint and the PROFI.

So, what topping will play nice with this new coating?

[Mike Phillips]

Glad you cleared that up. I was confused.

A glaze would put down something between the paint and the PROFI.

I've been clearing up confusion about "glazes" for almost 20 years.

You want me to post a list of just my articles on this topic?

I could probably do a Skynet search and pull up most of my posts on the confusion.

So, what topping will play nice with this new coating?

That's a "new" topic of confusion - there's no need to top a coating... unless you're using,

1. Coating Wash
2. Coating Detailer
3. Coating Booster

If you apply things like waxes or sealants - you lose the characteristics of the coating and gain the characteristics of the topper, which usually means "less" positive features. Thus you defeat the original purpose of installing the coating.


Deep thoughts on car wax with Mike Phillips