Totally agree. He basically used D166 with every machine and pad on the market on the same vehicle. Pretty awesome.
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This is an example of the only kind of products I buy...works on any paint, on any machine, on any pad, and always produces consistent results. In detailing there are actually few products that do. That's why my shelf has only a handful of products.
Let me ask you this about polishing backwards. Let's say you had a car with a 100% perfect finish on it. If you used something like d166 or a less fine finishing polish will that bring the finish backwards?
"Obviously" or I assume it would if you used a compound on it or a swirl remover? Same idea, can you bring the finish backwards if you used something with less then the finest abrasives to remove road film
Nice write up, Mike.
And such a beautiful truck. LOVE IT.
Stay safe out there.
Great question - and to clarify so that everyone knows what we're talking about (and I'm reading you correctly), what your asking about is the idea of
"always working forward as in the paint polishing process"
Correct?
This means each step in the process should be making the paint look better and better, never worse as that would be working backwards in the process.
In this context, working on paint that is 100% perfect - then whether a cleaner/wax makes the paint look worse or maintains the 100% perfect finish would come down to the abrasive technology first and pad choice, tool and technique in that order second.
I have not tested D166 fully yet so I don't know enough about the abrasive technology on this specific formula to know its effect in the context of your question.
That said, while normally and historically you wouldn't use a cleaner/wax on perfect paint but instead you would use a finishing wax.
Finishing wax or show car wax = NON cleaning or non abrasive wax - the opposite of a cleaner wax.
The exception to the rule now days is there are cleaner/waxes available that use top notch abrasive technology that "yes" you can use them on 100% perfect paint without degrading the appeance or "working backwards".
Make sense?
This is a deep subject and probably going over the top of most people's heads.
:laughing:
Thanks! I prefer classics over modern technology. I'm actually going to put the truck up for sale. I like it but want something 10 to 20 years older with similar running gear and a Big Block. This truck has the stock 350 in it and it runs strong and smooth.
It no longer has the junky 700R4 or the NP208 transfercase but now has a Dana Sniff Turbo 400 short shaft and a NP205 transfercase.
It also has 3/4 ton running gear with positive rear and 4-wheel disc brakes. For those that don't know, the factory running gear for the model would be wimpy 1/2 ton running gear and rear drum brakes. So she's been upgraded dramatically while still keeping her very streetable.
The next upgrade to what's already in her would be 1-ton running gear but once you go full bore 1-ton front and rear Axel's it becomes a lot less practical as a daily drive - at least in my opinion and experience.
:)
Here's a truck I like but to date, the owner isn't ready to let her go yet.
This is a 1946 Dodge Powerwagon wth modern Chevy running gear.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...32e7905470.jpg
Last time I saw it - it could use some D166 Ultra Polishing Wax.
I'll give the owner a shout and see if he would like to bring her down for a Wednesday class.
:)
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@Mike Phillips. I know you're talking trucks right now, but switching gears a bit, do you still own a Cadillac? If I remember correctly it's more like 2? But I haven't heard you mention in so long so I'm not sure... If you do still own 1, how often do you drive it? Is it white? It'd be cool to hear more about it. :)
I've owned three 1959 Cadillacs, two 1960s and one 1949 Caddy.
I sold all but one when I moved from Oregon to California to go to work at Meguiar's.
I kept the 1959 Coupe that I stuffed a 468 BBC into and brought it to California with my family along with the 1966 Milk Truck but when I took the job to work for Autogeek and moved from California to Florida we sold the Caddy to a car collector in Apple Valley.
You can see the BBC in the engine compartment in this shot of the car with the hood off.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4e45bc2245.jpg
Once in a while I have people contact me and ask me how difficult it was to install the Big Block Chevy 468 into the Caddy.
It was actually fairly easy. The most important aspect is to install the engine as far forward as possible so the valve covers don't obstruct the throttle linkage coming from the firewall to the carburetor.
:)
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You're thinking about this 59 Flattop, and we sold that Caddy while we were still in Oregon.
We bought the Flattop with only 52,000 miles on it. It was a real cream puff and had the original single stage white paint.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4bf0fc16a4.jpg
The 1956 Tbird next to the Caddy belongs to my friend Brian and he still has it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db1c1ba34c.jpg
And to bring this thread back on topic - the last time I buffed out the 1959 Flattop I used Meguiar's #6 Cleaner/Wax.
:)
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