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How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
We cover show car detailing or what you would call multiple step car detailing in-depth at all our classes.
To me and my guess is most the people that attend our classes, this is the fun part of car detailing, that is taking a diamond in the rough and turning it into a glistening gemstone. In fact we have more cars in our class to teach show car detailing in order to showcase all the tools you get to use at our classes and of course, how to use them to their fullest extent.
That said, we also cover high quality production detailing because that's the largest chunk of the DIFM detailing market.
DIFM = Do it for me
Production detailing is where you do ONE step to the paint besides the normal car washing, drying, claying, etc. Instead of doing dedicated compounding, polishing and protecting steps you use a high quality one-step cleaner/wax and do all three of these procedures in a single step as this SAVES YOU TIME and that's important for your entry level detailing packages if you detail for money.
Using a one-step cleaner/wax is also a good approach for any car owner and their daily driver as the paint on a daily driver will get a dirt stain embedded onto and into the paint when exposed to road grime over time.
Road grime is the dirty, oily water spray that's kicked up onto your car by cars in front of you when you drive in the rain. I have an article on this topic with pictures that tell the entire story here.
So besides all the cool cars we bring in for our classes I always bring in 2-3 mundane daily drivers in dire need of a good detail job to teach how to correctly do production detailing.
Here's our victim for the production detailing class, my buddy Henry's 2002 Chevy Avalanche.
The owner says he'll have the factory rim back on the passenger front when he drops her off.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=97326
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=97327
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=97328
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=97329
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=97330
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
So here's how the process I show at our 3-day detailing boot camp classes for doing high quality production detailing.
Wash wheels and tires
Of course you can hand scrub tires using a brush but the Porter Cable 7424XP with a Cyclo Gray Interior brush takes all the work out of the job and does a much better job than you and your arm.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98921
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98922
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98923
Chemically decontaminate paint
This is an optional step in any detailing process and especially when doing production detailing as a production detailing package usually doesn't have the profit margins built in for this type of optional step. That said I like to show all the students that attend our classes how to do this step so if they choose to do this step they'll have hands-on experience.
After washing and rinsing the wheels and tires, while the vehicle is still dry, spray it down with Iron X.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98924
Using a foam gun, foam the vehicle and wash the vehicle working from the top down.
Note the Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitts on the hood in front of the windshield. Place your wash mitts here and then spray them with water to get them wet before foaming the vehicle.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98925
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98926
Clean plastic cladding
This Chevy Avalanche has a lot of dull, oxidized plastic cladding. During the washing step we also scrubbed and cleaned it to prepare it for Solution Finish.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98927
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98928
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98929
Machine scrubbing plastic cladding
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98930
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98931
Re-wash vehicle and decontaminate - Optional step
After washing and rinsing the entire vehicle as an option and a time-saver you can re-foam the body panels and then mechanically decontaminate them using Nanoskin Wash Mitts.
This takes the place of detailing clay and because the vehicle is still wet you save a couple of steps which saves you time. Basically when you wash and decontaminate at the same time the vehicle will be ready for machine waxing as your next step.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98932
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98933
After the final rinse, dry the vehicle off to avoid water spots.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Next... time to do something with the faded plastic trim....
Plastic Restoration 101 with Solution Finish
My good friend Chris West sent me some information to share how his product, Solution Finish works to restore the color to faded, oxidized plastic trim.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
Hello Mike, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your support with Solution Finish and I am honored that you would include it in your workshop.
Here are a few tips and tricks, along with some technical information that maybe your students would find interesting.
First of all, Solution Finish is not an ink, dye, or stain – it is solvent-based modified black carbon.
Solution Finish does 3 very important things that are different than your typical plastic dressing:
1) Because it's solvent-based, it actually dissolves the existing oxidation on the plastic part.
2) It puts the black carbon back into the microscopic pores of the part being treated.
3) It contains antioxidants and light stabilizers that prevent the UV radiation from further oxidizing the trim.
What I’ve done is milled the carbon 7 times, making it as small as a virus – so with our modified and penetrating oil, it is able to draw the black carbon deep into the pores of the plastic.
In silicone-based products, the molecules are too “fat” (as we call it) to do anything other than coat the surface – a Band-Aid, if you will.
Pure plastic does not oxidize – it's the impurities and additives in the plastic that actually break down and cause the oxidation process to start.
When silicone starts breaking down and gasses off, it creates a hydro-peroxide gas which actually accelerates the oxidation process. Once that happens, it doesn't stop unless you prevent the gasses from forming; Solution Finish does just that.
Regarding the Avalanche you’re going to be detailing, it's interesting to note that the truck has 6 different manufacturers of plastics to on the vehicle. The running boards, quarter panels, bed cover, cab extensions, bumper covers and tailgate cap are all made by different companies.
Therefore, they all are susceptible to deterioration in different ways. But, as you will see, Solution Finish brings the black back and keeps it there.
Now if you look at the various sections of plastic cladding in the pictures, just like Chris stated, the plastic comes from 6 different companies and some components fade differently than other components. Just want to point this out as it's very apparent in the pictures and shows that Chris really knows his business.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98953
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98954
Sean and Chelsea removing the hard plastic tonneau cover...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98955
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98956
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98957
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98958
Demonstration: How to apply and work in Solution Finish
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98960
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98961
Using a black wheel and tire microfiber towel to wipe off any excess.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98962
Removing the painter's tape....
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98963
Boom! There it is...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98964
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98965
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98966
Hands on training and real-world experience restoring plastic trim with Solution Finish.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98967
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98968
Sean and Chelsea removed the hard plastic tonneau cover so while the class was treating the plastic cladding on the truck I knocked out the tonneau cover.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98969
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98970
Have to have a little fun once in a while....
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98971
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
The finishing touch.... time to do something with the tires!
I'm a HUGE fan of DP Tire Coating. This is the coolest product for tires because as long as you do a great job of cleaning the tires first and then do a great job of applying the coating, the tires come out looking like new and they stay that way without any sling onto the side of the vehicle. Plus the coating dries to the touch so no mess into the future anytime you wash your vehicle or accidentally touch the tires.
Here's Nick explaining and demonstrating how to apply DP Tire Coating.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98972
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98973
Hands-on training and real-world experience
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98974
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98975
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98976
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98977
As you can see by the pictures in this thread these classes are about 95 percent hands-on training. There is very little time spent sitting around in chairs because I know that people learn best by doing, not sitting.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Not only do you learn a lot at our detailing classes but they are also a lot of fun.
Click this link to sign up online
Or call Nick at the number below as he can answer any questions you have and help you to get signed up over the phone.
1-800-869-3011 x215
Next class is September 25th, 26th and 27th. Historically this class fills up the fastest and we end up turning people away so clear your schedule and reserves your space.
Here's some of the cars I have lined up for the September class.
Training Cars for the September 2015 3-Day Boot Camp Class
:xyxthumbs:
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Nice work on that Chevy Avalanche, thanks for sharing the process :props:
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
WOW! :dblthumb2:
Awesome work team. Thats one heck of a turn around & one of the reasons I love doing this type of detail. Sure, I love doing the SIVs but its only really a small minority that "really" see the differences. These turn arounds like this - with the reactions associated with them are pure gold. Love it! :dblthumb2:
Very impressed with how well Solution Finish worked out. Have to get me some of that for sure. Chris explained it perfectly too, very interesting information there. Thanks for including that Mike. :xyxthumbs:
Outstanding!
Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Looks brand new. It's amazing how much value you can add to a vehicle with just a little detailer's TLC.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
As always Mike, excellent work, thanks for sharing:dblthumb2:
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
What's Nick doing with the dryer?
Blowing the wet tire coating into all the nooks?
Or drying the tire so the next coat can be applied sooner?
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Angus
What's Nick doing with the dryer?
Blowing the wet tire coating into all the nooks?
Or drying the tire so the next coat can be applied sooner?
Pretty sure it's both.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Aaryn NZ
WOW! :dblthumb2:
Awesome work team. Thats one heck of a turn around & one of the reasons I love doing this type of detail. Sure, I love doing the SIVs but its only really a small minority that "really" see the differences. These turn arounds like this - with the reactions associated with them are pure gold. Love it! :dblthumb2:
Very impressed with how well Solution Finish worked out. Have to get me some of that for sure. Chris explained it perfectly too, very interesting information there. Thanks for including that Mike. :xyxthumbs:
Outstanding!
Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
:iagree: Pretty much covered everything I wanted to say. Great detail, excellent remark Aaryn. Thanks. :dblthumb2:
Peace,
Darrin
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
haris300
Looks brand new. It's amazing how much value you can add to a vehicle with just a little detailer's TLC.
That's the whole idea.
If you look carefully at the paint in the before pictures and then look at the GLOSS, SHINE and WET LOOK the paint has after using just one product, a one-step cleaner/wax, that plus all the prep work steps created a dramatic before and after difference that simply makes this Chevy Avalanche come back to life.
There are times when the right thing to do for a car is a multiple step process to really take the paint finish over the top. But a lot of the time, and especially if you're a detailer doing customer work, the right thing to do and the profitable thing to do is simply use a one-step cleaner/wax and reduce the time you invest into the paint polishing step of a detail job.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
The pics after the first post don't work for me. I just get a bunch of boxes with ?'s in them. After reading all that, I can't see the process or finished pics...haha
I'm viewing from an IPad if that makes any difference.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Me too. I'm reading from Germany with Firefox Browser and no pics after the first post.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
No pics here either...IE11 if that helps.
Bill
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Busy mind
The pics after the first post don't work for me. I just get a bunch of boxes with ?'s in them. After reading all that, I can't see the process or finished pics...haha
I'm viewing from an IPad if that makes any difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Malborex
Me too. I'm reading from Germany with Firefox Browser and no pics after the first post.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
BillE
No pics here either...IE11 if that helps.
Bill
Something happened since sometime yesterday? Not sure but our webmaster will know.
If you click the Gallery link at the top of the page (do it right now before it changes) you'll see a bunch of missing thumbnail pictures replacing missing pictures. Here's a screenshot
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...722/nopics.jpg
So the pictures were there and the good news is I make dedicated albums on my hard drive and in the gallery for all the pictures I use in the Interweb.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Great work, Mike and students! Bookmarking this for sure.
I've had to refresh this thread several times but eventually all of the pictures showed up. Try that, guys.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
batcat420
Great work, Mike and students! Bookmarking this for sure.
It's a process anyone can duplicate in their driveway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
batcat420
I've had to refresh this thread several times but eventually all of the pictures showed up.
Try that, guys.
I wasn't so much you refreshing your screen as it was me re-uploading all the pictures and then re-inserting them as the URL page code changed for each picture.
Took me about 20 minutes to re-upload and re-code. Since there's a lot of chatter in the Facebook world about this thread I wanted to make sure everyone could see the pictures.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
...the Porter Cable 7424XP with a Cyclo Gray Interior brush takes all the work out of the job and does a much better job than you and your arm.
I would think that the bristles on this brush would be too soft versus the Aqua or White options. Did you also use the Gray brush on the plastic trim?
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Angus
What's Nick doing with the dryer?
Blowing the wet tire coating into all the nooks?
Or drying the tire so the next coat can be applied sooner?
Like Frank said, he's doing both.
This is the technique I use when I coat my 40" Toyos on my Silverado. The idea being two fold,
1. Using forced air to push the liquid coating into all the cracks and crevices evenly. This is really helpful if you have a tire with siping on the sidewall. (The grooved lines).
2. Using forced air to speed up the drying time so while physically already all set-up to coat a tire might as well stay there till you've applied the number of coats you want to apply. For this truck I think we applied 2 coats to each tire, maybe 3.
The Metro-Vac Sidekick is a really handy tool to have around for all types of detailing related projects.
There's two to choose from, one comes with the basic rubber nozzles and the other comes with a 3 foot flexible hose.
Metro Blaster SideKick
Metro Blaster SideKick Professional Series
You could also do the same thing with the DP Turbo Car Dryer.
DP Turbo Car Dryer
Definitely blasting the sidewall with air makes the coating process better and faster.
Tip
Keep some spray detailer or some glass cleaner nearby when coating the tires and if you getting any of the coating on the rims then wipe it off quickly.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Batcave
I would think that the bristles on this brush would be too soft versus the Aqua or White options.
The bristles on the gray brush are soft but they wear well. The bristles on the white brushes tend to spread out and stay spread out with use. The green bristles seem to hold their shape pretty well.
I chose the gray brushes as a precaution as I didn't want the plastic cladding to get any scratches in it and didn't want to take the time to swap brushes during the process.
While the bristles on the gray brush are soft at the speed the polisher scrubs they still do a great job and both the tires and the plastic cladding came out perfect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
batcat420
Did you also use the Gray brush on the plastic trim?
Yes and hand scrubbed two as we only had 2 Porter Cables outside for this project.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98930
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...php?file=98928
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Like Frank said, he's doing both.
This is the technique I use when I coat my 40" Toyos on my Silverado. The idea being two fold,
1. Using forced air to push the liquid coating into all the cracks and crevices evenly. This is really helpful if you have a tire with siping on the sidewall. (The grooved lines).
2. Using forced air to speed up the drying time so while physically already all set-up to coat a tire might as well stay there till you've applied the number of coats you want to apply. For this truck I think we applied 2 coats to each tire, maybe 3.
The Metro-Vac Sidekick is a really handy tool to have around for all types of detailing related projects.
There's two to choose from, one comes with the basic rubber nozzles and the other comes with a 3 foot flexible hose.
Metro Blaster SideKick
Metro Blaster SideKick Professional Series
You could also do the same thing with the DP Turbo Car Dryer.
DP Turbo Car Dryer
Definitely blasting the sidewall with air makes the coating process better and faster.
Tip
Keep some spray detailer or some glass cleaner nearby when coating the tires and if you getting any of the coating on the rims then wipe it off quickly.
:)
Thanks Mike! I'll try this next time I coat a set of tires w/ my MasterBlaster using only 1 motor. Great tip on the spray detailer too. I'll probably hold a mf towel in the same direction I'm blowing product in to catch any loose liquid before it has a chance to get onto the paint.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
I was so impressed with the Solutions Finish plastic restore, that I purchased a bottle.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Angus
Thanks Mike! I'll try this next time I coat a set of tires w/ my MasterBlaster using only 1 motor.
Great tip on the spray detailer too. I'll probably hold a mf towel in the same direction I'm blowing product in to catch any loose liquid before it has a chance to get onto the paint.
Definitely force drying and blasting the liquid over the irregular shapes on so many tire sidewalls work faster and better. I put 4-5 coats on my truck tires and due to the size of the sidewalls this was the method I found to get the job done faster.
Here's another tip....
When blowing any wet coating, blow away from the wheel, not towards it. I've had dried coating on my hands before and it doesn't wash off. Had to scrape it off. So blow away or outward from the wheel, not towards the wheel.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
I noticed you use multiple steps between washing, claying and using Iron-X. Have you tried using CarPro's Snow Soap with a Nanoskin AutoScrub Wash Mitt at the same time? Would that cut time and end up with the same/similar results vs. washing, claying and Iron-X(ing)?
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
He great questions and I'm glad you asked them as it gives me an opportunity to clear up any confusion.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jwgreen6
I noticed you use multiple steps between washing, claying and using Iron-X.
Technically we didn't clay the Avalanche. We used the Nanoskin Autoscrub Mitt. Not sure what to call it and add the ing to the end of the word like clay and claying but just so any lurkers that don't read but only scan are not confused I wanted to point this out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
jwgreen6
That can sound like a great idea on paper but here's the deal and I think I have an article on this same topic somewhere on this forum.
The goal is to get the car clean as possible and at the same time
- Chemically decontaminate the paint.
- Mechanically decontaminate the paint.
Chemically decontaminating the paint is an optional step. If it's your own car and you're own money then go for it. If you're detailing for money then you need to build the price of the Iron X into each wash job or you'll lose money. Remember there are places that will wash your car for $10.00 so keep that in mind when considering your competition. You can build the cost of Iron X into your price but you have to educate the customer because they'll want to know why you charge more to simply wash a car?
Next... the reason for the extra step of washing and re-foaming and then using the Nanoskin Mitt is because...
The polymerized rubber side of the Nanoskin mitt is sold (but flexible) and if you don't wash the vehicle first and RINSE OFF THE LOOSENED DIRT then you'll rub that dirt between the rubbery side of the Nanoskin Mitt against the paint and this is where you risk putting swirls and scratches into the paint.
If the car is really dirty, this could mean a lot of swirls and scratches and possibly even deep swirls and scratches depending upon the type of dirt on the car.
Make sense?
Your idea of trying to save time is a great idea and for a car that DOESN'T have any visible dirt or abrasive particles on it you might be able to get away with this approach but I wouldn't use it on my own vehicles and I certainly wouldn't teach this approach in Autogeek's 3-day Detailing Boot Camp Class.
You still save a step or two with this approach plus you have both the chemical and mechanical decontamination over with during the wet washing step.
And in my experience, the Nanoskin products remove more above surface bonded contaminants than clay and do it faster.
Make sense?
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
High Caliber
I was so impressed with the Solutions Finish plastic restore, that I purchased a bottle.
What are you going to use it on?
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Great timing on this, thanks Mike! I just happen to have an Avalanche in for full detail right now. Luckily it is an LTZ, so no lower cladding, just the stuff around the box. We have a local detail shop that sells cyclo brushes, so I may pick up the grey one to do the plastic around the box. Would D101 diluted 1:4 be good to use to clean these plastic parts? I am going to attempt to seal with BFTTTS. If I get some streaks or spotchy-ness, I may try and blend it out with BF Tire Gel over the BFTTTS.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
What did you use for a cleaner/wax and pad, looks great
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
What are you going to use it on?
:)
First subject is a 2007 Ford Econoline cab class c RV. The lower half of the front bumper is plastic and the same grey/white as the Avalanche was.
A neighbor has a Honda Element that I need to get my hands on an use this stuff to. All that plastic is just begging to be restored.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
sayroger
What did you use for a cleaner/wax and pad, looks great
Blackfire Total Polish and Seal and I believe the Lake Country hybrid white polishing pad.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
High Caliber
Blackfire Total Polish and Seal and I believe the Lake Country hybrid white polishing pad.
This is correct.
Actually, what we do for Production Detailing Class is we let the students pick any tool they want to get more hands-on time with and use it with a polishing pad.
For the Flex 3401 students were using the Lake Country White Foam Polishing pads.
For the BOSS G15 and G21 students were using the BOSS Yellow Foam Polishing Pads.
I call this the Free-for-all session because each person is free to choose the tool they want to use. For ALL the other cars we buff out during the 3-day class the tools are matched to specific cars.
We don't do the Production Detailing Class till Saturday after the class has already used the below tools so they have real-world experience with each tool.
- Entry Level DA's = Porter Cable, Griot's 6", Megs MT300 and Megs G110v2.
- Boss Polishers = G21 and G15.
- RUPES BigFoot Polishers = BigFoot 21, BigFoot 15, Duetto 12 and Mini 12.
If the class didn't use ALL of the other tools first? How would they know which tool they wanted to spend more time with?
Make sense?
Here's a copy and paste showing the product, tools and pads from post #3 of this thread.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips
The key when using a one-step cleaner/wax is to use the softest pad you can get away with and I explain what that means in my article here,
How to choose and use a one-step cleaner/wax by Mike Phillips
Correctly used, a one-step cleaner/wax can do amazing work and reduce your time investment into your project car. If you detail cars for money it will increase your profits as compared to doing a multiple step process.
These classes are very well laid out. We start with foundational knowledge and skills and then build on this foundation all the way through the 3-day class.
:)
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Great result by the class. As an up and coming detailer in Australia, topics like this are priceless. Thanks Mike!
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek
Hi Mike,
Questions.
1. In the first picture there was a student polishing the glass. May I know what is the techniques/products used?
2. In the second picture, the wiper arm seemed faded, did you manage to restore it?
Thank you.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
rcoops77
Great result by the class. As an up and coming detailer in Australia, topics like this are priceless. Thanks Mike!
You're welcome.
I still have pictures from the last class that show AMAZING detailing project we do in all our classes.
Just need time....
:Picture:
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1 Attachment(s)
Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Here's the results I got on one of the bed cover panels today on an Avalanche I just happen to have in for a detail (all 3 came out this good).
Process:
1) D101 @ 1:10 sprayed liberally over panel and let soak for about 1 minute
2) GG6 with cyclo aqua brush on speed 2
3) 6 section passes in crosshatch pattern just like polishing paint. I got the best results by doing 4 section passes, then rinsing, then spraying again with D101 and doing 2 more section passes.
The one on the right was one that I hadn't cleaned yet. Huge difference (obviously). The panel has not been treated, sealed or dressed...just raw after cleaning.
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Re: How to do high quality production detailing - Your largest market!
Quote:
Originally Posted by
wdmaccord
Here's the results I got on one of the bed cover panels today on an Avalanche I just happen to have in for a detail (all 3 came out this good).
Process:
1) D101 @ 1:10 sprayed liberally over panel and let soak for about 1 minute
2) GG6 with cyclo aqua brush on speed 2
3) 6 section passes in crosshatch pattern just like polishing paint. I got the best results by doing 4 section passes, then rinsing, then spraying again with D101 and doing 2 more section passes.
Sounds about right. Machine scrubbing old neglected plastic works well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
wdmaccord
The one on the right was one that I hadn't cleaned yet.
Huge difference (obviously).
The panel has not been treated, sealed or dressed...just raw after cleaning.
And that's the key to getting great results with any dressing, sealant or a product like Solution Finish and that is to start with a clean surface.
Here's your picture. I uploaded it into your free gallery on this forum to make it easier for people to see into the future.
Nice work.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=100481
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