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Just bought a Makita Rotary buffer. What is a safe speed to start at? I know i have to keep it moving because it will burn the paint.
Im using it for....
menzerna super finish -white pad--speed??
dodo juice prime glaze -black finishing pad---speed??
menzerna power lock -blue fine pad---speed??
blackfire midnight sun wax -wool'microfiber bonnet---speed??
THANKS
:buffing:
I'd say keep it below speed setting number 3 until you can polish without making the. Pad hop, tape all of your edges until you learn how to run it one handed. By the time you can do that, you'll be controlling it instead of it controlling you. Apply your LSPs by hand or with a DA.
I'm gonna bump this because I was wondering the same thing. What rpm does everyone (that uses one) use for application and removal of compounds and waxes and sealants with a rotary?
The reason this thread never got any answers is because there are different variables involved on each job and with each rotary that pretty much make it a per vehicle, per panel, per paint system, per paint color, per paint manufacturer, per machine, per detailer technique answer.
Read Mike Phillips' articles about doing test sections and you'll have a better idea why this question really can't be answered other than to say that depending on all of the above mentioned variables "anywhere between speed 1 and speed 6".
On hard clear coat systems you can crank the speed up pretty high, whereas on a really soft paint system that same high speed might burn the paint. You really need to take each job on a "least aggressive method" basis. Only when you've done your initial test section(s), will you have a good idea of what speed to be running at, then you work your way back the rear quarter and get to the curve around the wheel well or rear bumper and you'll be changing speeds again.
There's a certain element of risk that a new rotary user has to take "a leap of faith" on, coupled with some good book smarts and video information to begin using a rotary. This is why it's often suggested to start practicing on a panel from a salvage yard or an old beater car that no one cares about rather than a customer's car or your own pride and joy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by yotacoma12
It would be easier and better to suggest ranges and let you the user figure out what's working best in your garage on your car.
Recommended Range
The Makita dials down to 600 RPM and you can use a range of 600 RPM to 1500 RPM to tackle just about any project. You can even compound at 600 RPM.
The most important thing is to do some testing and make sure you're getting the results you want before doing an entire process to the entire car.
Here's a recent thread about using a rotary to apply a cleaner/wax with excellent results.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...t-you-say.html
I'm not a big fan of using rotary buffers to apply finishing waxes at all as I think this is best done using a DA.
A rotary is a great tool for applying one-step cleaner/waxes to neglected cars and boats because it's fast and effective. The problem is after a few car washes and some time goes by, if the color is dark the owner may see holograms show up. I said "may".
If they keep the paint wax they may never see holograms show up if there are any and if there are NOT any then they will never see them whether they re-wax or not.
And on light colored cars you might not ever see holograms. Here's another article to digest...
Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer
And another...
Any wax, paint sealant or coating that works fills to some degree
Have fun with your new Makita, I know I enjoyed mine till I finally retired it...
Pretty huh?
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...rendous003.jpg
:)
A good range is all I really expected. I know in another thread for compounding/swirl removal the range most used was anywhere from 1000-1800. This is the majority that I would use it for as far as application. The rest would be removal just for the time factor.
I generally don't go above 1000 now. I used to buff at much higher speeds, but I get the best results working smaller sections at slower speeds. I Don't get above 600 much.
I'll throw my $.02 in here. You need friction to obtain correction. You can obtain that with speed and/or pressure. Personally, I always run my Dynabrade rotary at the lowest rpm (1000) to start and my first RAMP UP is more pressure. This will give you more cut. If that doesn't do it, I slowly raise the speed while still using more pressure. Only if I'm dealing with very hard clear and/or deep scratches will I run it at 1800-2200 range. That is a rare occurrence for me. Most times, pressure can do the trick and it is my personal opinion that pressure vs speed is better as pressure will not heat up the surface as quickly as speed will (hence lower burning potential). The other MAJOR thing is what pad. If you need more correction, step up your pad. Using wool and a rotary is a strong correction tool and rarely will you need to up your speed with that combo...although it does happen..I've had one lately myself.
It is a fluid, moving target. On the hood, you will most probably need to be more aggreessive than you will be on the sides, so adjust your method on the fly to suit the changing environment.
Hope that makes sense.
:)