For those of you that have a PTG here's a chart you can use if you don't already have one.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...rplan9br-3.jpg
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For those of you that have a PTG here's a chart you can use if you don't already have one.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...rplan9br-3.jpg
Thanks, man! Very handy for a pre-detail inspection, with or without a PTG.
Thanks Ron for sharing this... :props:
I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnHenry
If you detail cars for money, print out this chart and mark any problem areas like scratches, burn-throughs from other detailers, extreme wax residue dried onto black plastic pebble textured trim, etc.
Here's a tip for anyone that reads this into the future, together with this chart, if you have a digital camera, if you find any paint defects in your customer's car before you detail it or if you discover any defects while you're detailing it, take a picture to and point it out to your customer.
This insures they know you didn't create the problem and shows a level of professionalism. Then, if possible correct the problem if it's correctable.
On classic cars I always inspect for un-even panels, like where the hood will fit or align with the body and fenders. If I find a high point anywhere I look for edges that have been burned through by "the other guy" because it's pretty common and often times the owner is not aware of the defect.
So inspect and document.
Does anyone have similar charts for things like Truck, S.U.V.'s or Vans?
:)
Or...
Chart your Mils :D
I've always measured in Mils?
Seems like i other country's they measure in Microns?
The one AG carries measures in both mils and microns
Defelsko PosiTest DFT Combo Electronic Paint Thickness Gauge
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...osiTest004.jpg
:)
What's a safe, workable thickness? (microns and mils)
120 mic + would be safe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutch34
I've read paint thickness on factory paint that have been all over the board, instead of looking for a specific number, I look for a uniform number.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutch34
For example the 2007 Impala Rental Car I took to the 2010 Mobil Tech Expo to demonstrate Damp-Sanding Technique measured pretty uniformly in the 7.0+ range.
That is I could easily measure places on the hood that would read,
7.6 mils
7.8 mils
7.4 mils
7.6 mils
7.7 mils
And so on...
I found this on the trunk and on the roof also. I don't remember measuring the doors or sides of fenders as this was a very busy show.
If I see a consistent range this gives me confidence that I'm working on factory paint that someone else hasn't compound in the past using "Rock-in-a-Bottle" compound.
We, or I guess I should say I, sanded down the entire hood of the Impala 3 times and then did some isolated areas on the hood and the trunk lid twice on one side and once on the other side to get it to match before returning it.
Never saw any black paint on my pads... :props:
As far as using mils compared to using microns, it's really relative and as long as you can relate to it then whichever you're more comfortable with is the way to go. That is if your PTG measures both, if your PTG only measures in one measurement type, then you go with that one.
:D
I'm thinking of buying this PTG to measure my paint. Mike, if you can recall, what would you say are the best and worst uniform numbers on a factory paint job? Just curious.
Excellent! Thank you for sharing!