Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Hi R107Guys,
Welcome to AutogeekOnline! :welcome:
Time stamp on your post is 01-17-2021, 06:05 PM or Sunday, January 17th, at 6:005pm - so I was offline at that time.
Playing catch-up right now, just finished shooting a new TV Commercial with Yancy in the garage. Let me read through your post and see what I can offer.
:)
Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Quote:
Originally Posted by
R107Guys
560SL Paint Protection
Hello Everyone,
I have a 1986 Mercedes 560SL, the paint is single stage and red.
I've buffed out a number of these in my life. Here's an example of one such detail job.
Pictures - 1989 Mercedes-Benz - Low Mileage Beauty All Original Beauty!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=106145
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...hp?file=106141
I believe the factory paint is Glasurit, a very high quality brand of paint. I've always loved how the Glasurit paints buff.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...surit-logo.jpg
In fact, I made this same comment back in 2013 here,
Looking for Pebble Beach shine on a 300SL
Quote:
Originally Posted by
R107Guys
I did a light polishing with chemical guys V36 & V38, it still had some heavy swirls but I'm not sure how thin/thick the paint is so I didn't get very aggressive.
I talk a LOT about abrasive technology on this forum, in videos and in the real-world. I would recommend the Wolfgang line of polishes for your Mercedes-Benz. I think you could do everything you ever want to do with just the Total Swirl Remover.
The Wolfgang Four
Here are four products that will take care of about 99.9% of any exterior paint correction product you'll ever have in your garage.
The Wolfgang Four
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...fgang_Four.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by
R107Guys
After that I used a glaze, wax, and sealant to protect the paint and reapply wax every few weeks and reapply all 3 every 2 months or so. The issue is when I left the car outside in the rain it left some heavy water spots that I had to buff out.
Yup. Old single stage paints can get a very unique type of water spot where after the water penetrates INTO the paint it fades it to white. Here's my article on water spots and I actually have a picture of this type of water spots.
3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III
Type III Water Spots
Type III Water Spots are spots that look faded or dull and are found primarily found on single stage paints after a water source lands on and then pools on the paint and is usually left to dwell on the surface for some measure of time before it evaporates or is wiped-off the surface.
Modern clear coat paints tend to be harder and impermeable, that is non-porous, so liquids don't penetrated easily and thus stain spots tend to be topical, that is only affect the very upper surface and are easier and safer to remove with a compound or polish.
Older single stage paints tend to be soft and permeable, or porous, it's common for liquids to penetrate into the paint and stain the paint below the surface. Removing stains out of single stage paints can be risky because in order to remove the stains you have to abrade the paint and if the stains penetrated deep then you risk removing too much in an effort to try to remove them completely.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
R107Guys
Also spilled brake fluid on the paint and stained it.
Ouch! :wowwow:
Brake Fluid on single stage paint tends to turn the paint purple or blue.
Did this happen?
Quote:
Originally Posted by
R107Guys
Other than not driving in the rain does anyone have any good ideas how to protect the paint from water spots/gas/brake fluid...?
I was think of going with ceramic coating or using a clear wrap on the horizontal surfaces but I'm not sure whats best, this is the first car I have owned that's single stage...
Here's what I would suggest. Try the new 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating, this stuff is pretty stout.
You can apply it over the paint just like it is now or you can re-polish the paint and then apply. You don't have to use a Panel Wipe before use.
Panel Wipe = Solvent of some sort which will tend to dull down single stage paint.
You can use a ceramic coating on single stage paint the issue is getting the paint clean without dulling it. One option would be to machine polish using the Dr. Beasley's NSP 45, (a dedicated fine cut polish), or the Dr. Beasley's Z1, which is a one-step Ceramic All-in-One. The thing about these products is you don't have to chemically strip before applying the coating.
For a coating - I'd recommend the BLACKFIRE BLACK EDITION. Apply 2 coats. This stuff is freaking bullet proof.
The 303 option would be quick, fast and easy. The ceramic coating option will take time and multiple step.
Hope that helps...
:)
Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
More...
Here's my review for the 303 products. Most, in fact the greatest majority of my "reviews" are also "How-tos". I figure while I'm testing and reviewing a product I might as well share how to use the "thing" at the same time.
Review: 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating
303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...aphene_001.JPG
Here's my review for the BLACKFIRE BLACK EDITION
Review & How-To: BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Paint Coating Black Edition
BLACKFIRE Pro Ceramic Paint Coating Black Edition
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...oating_066.JPG
And Z1 by DR. Beasely's
Review: Dr. Beasley's NSP Z1 - One Step Primer & Nanocoating with Ti02 & Si02 + Composite Engineered Abrasives
Dr. Beasley's NSP Z1 - One Step Primer & Nanocoating with Ti02 & Si02
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...eys_Z1_016.JPG
And the NSP 45
Review: Dr Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and 1201 Paint Coating - 1947 Dodge Panel Delivery Streetrod
First I'd like to say a shout out to Jim Lafeber, the man behind Dr. Beasley's detailing products. I came into my office one morning and found a box from Dr. Beasley's. I open it up and inside are his brand new Nano Surface Primers!
Dr Beasley's Nano Surface Primers and 1201 Paint Coating
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...rimers_002.JPG
:)
Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
If it were me?
I would re-polish with the Total Swirl Remover and a foam polishing pad and then apply the 303 Graphene and cross my fingers.
No way of knowing what will work until you try.
For others that will read this into the future - consider this some education on the difference between single stage paints and modern clearcoats.
Single stage paints are PERMEABLE or POROUS - liquids can go INTO them.
Clearcoats paints are IMPERMEABLE or NON-POROUS - liquids just sit on the top of them. Modern clearcoats are closer to plastic than to real paint.
Wow! I go to Skynet and type in
Permeable impermeable mike phillips autogeekonline.net
and this pulls up....
Permeable and Impermeable - Towel Control for Ceramic Coatings
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...mpermeable.jpg
:)
Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Mike Phillips
If it were me?
I would re-polish with the Total Swirl Remover and a foam polishing pad and then apply the 303 Graphene and cross my fingers.
No way of knowing what will work until you try...
This all was really helpful, lot of info for me to go though! The brake fluid just made the paint lighter and a hazy red. I would post a picture but I won't be back home for a few more weeks. I think I'm going to start out by finding a budget paint depth gauge, I'm really worried of burning through the paint. If it looks thick enough I'll get the wolfgang and put some more work in followed up by the 303. Seems like ceramic coating might not be the best option give single stage is permeable.
For the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating would it be best to just use it stand alone or could I add glaze & wax (if so in what order should that happen)?
Mike thank you so much for your help this was absolutely amazing!!!
Re: 560SL Paint Protetion
Wait....
I misspoke... we do carry a larger, thicker microfiber applicator pad that will work great for applying the 303 Graphene Nano Coating Spray
Extra Large Microfiber Applicator Pad
A picture tells a thousand words...
The applicator in the center is an applicator I FOUND here at Autogeek. I don't know where it came from? I don't know anyone that knows where it came from but it was the PERFECT applicator for the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...licator_01.JPG
This is s thinner version we DO sell and I use these a lot for applying interior cleaner, conditioners and protectants, also for all types of products for the outside of the car. While it will work for the 303 Graphene Nano Spray Coating, it's hard to grip and the foam core is soft and squishy and this simply makes it difficult to apply a product like this to an entire car.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...licator_02.JPG
This is the one I found. The foam core is dense or firm. This makes it easy to grasp and hold onto while spreading the 303 over a panel. The thicker foam intercore also makes it easier to grip and move over a panel.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...licator_03.JPG
This is a microfiber applicator we sell here at Autogeek and while I have not used it - it is very similar to the microfiber applicator pad that I found and have used on multiple cars. I vouch that it will be a great applicator pad for this product. After use, wash with your microfiber towels and use it again in the future.
http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...licator_04.JPG
On Autogeek.com
Extra Large Microfiber Applicator Pad
The thin one in the picture above,
Cobra Microfiber Applicator Pads
:)
