How Would You Even Approach This GIANT Rock Chip?

Very annoyed because I just had my hood repainted 2 months ago and I put SunTek Ultra on 1 month ago. This rock Chip is HUGE. I don’t even know if it’s a rock that caused it because it’s so large. It’s probably about slightly larger than half a quarter- imagine a quarter cut in half.

How do you even approach this?

I was thinking:
1. Scrape bare paint edges clean and wipe whole surface with isopropyl
2. Apply 2 coats of base color touch up. (Crystal Black Pearl)
3. Apply clear coat
4. Make sure touch up is above existing paint level
5. Wet sand with 1200(?) (more grits?)(different grit?) to level flat. Compound. Polish.

Let me know what you think is the best way to handle this.

Check it out below
Big Chip - Album on Imgur

Hello

Have you any knowledge what's done with it before and what they needed to be doing when they repainted it. Have a little problem to see which panel it is but think it's the hood. Either for me it seems to be like bondo and painted. If it's a metall panel and not glassfiber material. If they used to much of hardener in the bondo and maybe even not a primer layer before the paint. It can be very brittle and chip/crack this way. Almost looks like the impact it self is whole and then crushed the surrounding. This is shooting from the hip as it's hard to see exactly on video and photos.

To fix it to get it really good. Sadly my opinion is to take off the SunTek and sand it down with a larger area around the chip and repaint the whole hood/panel. As it's going to be very hard to get it nicely leveled with the paint when it's so deep of a chip. Then if it's problems with a bad bondo/paint job. You can easly get a new chip some where else on this edge.
To fix it for time being. Between your 1-2 step I would get some primer painted. And next when you paint it overlap a little so you feather the paint. If you are able or if it's to small see if you can get some finishing/last step bondo. So you get a softer bondo layer and easier to fill the chip and get it leveled to the surrounding paint. Since it's repainted already p1200 will be fine after the paint. Before you paint sanding the last step p320 p400. For a smooth paint finish.

Here's how I would do it and just recently did do it to my own car.


First - Lower your expectations. If you want it to look like it never happened take it to a body shop. If you don't like the "price idea" of that then lower you expectations for perfection.

Pull the loose paint off.
Sand the chipped-out area as best as you can using some #400 grit sand paper.
Scuff a little of the paint surrounding the chipped-out area.
Get the Dr. Color Chip touch-up paint for your car.
Apply a LITTLE paint to the chipped-out area and onto the surrounding good paint.
Let it fully dry for a day or two.
Apply some more paint to the chipped-out area. Less is more.
Let it fully dry for a day or two.
Repeat until the touch-up paint area is level with the surrounding panel.
For the last layer, try your best to cover the entire area with one last single coat.

Walk away.



:)

You can go down the road of trying to sand the area flat and then buff out your sanding marks.

If you decide to try this, first let the paint dry for a week or two.


You want it fully dry and fully hardened. A couple of day is not enough time.


:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SWETM

Hello

Have you any knowledge what's done with it before and what they needed to be doing when they repainted it. Have a little problem to see which panel it is but think it's the hood. Either for me it seems to be like bondo and painted. If it's a metall panel and not glassfiber material. If they used to much of hardener in the bondo and maybe even not a primer layer before the paint. It can be very brittle and chip/crack this way. Almost looks like the impact it self is whole and then crushed the surrounding. This is shooting from the hip as it's hard to see exactly on video and photos.

To fix it to get it really good. Sadly my opinion is to take off the SunTek and sand it down with a larger area around the chip and repaint the whole hood/panel. As it's going to be very hard to get it nicely leveled with the paint when it's so deep of a chip. Then if it's problems with a bad bondo/paint job. You can easly get a new chip some where else on this edge.
To fix it for time being. Between your 1-2 step I would get some primer painted. And next when you paint it overlap a little so you feather the paint. If you are able or if it's to small see if you can get some finishing/last step bondo. So you get a softer bondo layer and easier to fill the chip and get it leveled to the surrounding paint. Since it's repainted already p1200 will be fine after the paint. Before you paint sanding the last step p320 p400. For a smooth paint finish.

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Sadly, I know the feeling of having it protected with PPF film and see this under it! I too had a flying road tire section hit the hood and left a small dent and tore the PPF. Paid $650 for the PPF on the hood, so to fix the spot would be do it again and just not worth it for that small section. That accident happened only 60-days after the installation of the PPF.

In your video it does look like the underside was not fully cured and as stated seems to be bond that has become unstable.

If they remove the PPF film I suspect that you will be removing more paint. My body shop had the same thing happen removing the PPF off of my lower front bumper panel. I agree with SWETM and Mike, you have to make the call as in any case it is going to be an expensive fix.

Thank you everyone for all the help and suggestions. I took it to the shop that repainted my hood just to see what they have to say. They said of course the proper way to do it would be to sand the area, paint that small area, and clear coat the hood again. They said about $350. I said absolutely not.

I do not have high expectations for the result. I really don’t care too much what the result LOOKS like. Quite honestly, I just want to make sure that any exposed metal/paint is touched up and sealed so it doesn’t cause further deterioration.

I think buying the Dr. ColorChip is worth it. It’s something I’ve looked into for about two years now but always resort back to my touch up pen. But for $75 (I think- not sure), I can make sure any chip I get on this new hood gets taken care of properly. But this one is so big I just want it solved- doesn’t have to look great— and not a worrisome.