Headlight Correction - Wetsanding versus just Buffing - Results One Year Later

Headlight Correction - Wetsanding versus just Buffing - Results One Year Later


I found this interesting. Interesting enough to take some pictures and then share with the rest of you.



Here's the car. This is my neighbor's 2000 Honda CRV.


2000 Honda CRV

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...00_CRV_001.JPG




Pictures from the May 2019 Detailing Bootcamp Class

The Honda CRV wash washed and decontaminated on Saturday morning, the second day of my 3-day car detailing class.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_175.JPG


We used this Honda to teach Production Detailing. Watch a video that explains Production Detailing here.



Headlight Correction

Here's the BEFORE shots

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_227.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_228.JPG




Here's the AFTER shots

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_229.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_230.JPG



Here's the car after my class detailed the inside and outside.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_231.JPG




Passenger side
For the passenger side we only machine compounded using a wool pad on a rotary buffer with RUPES Zephir Gloss Compound.


Driver's side
For the driver's side - we machine sanding using Mirka Abralon Sanding Discs in this order,

#1000 --> #2000 --> #3000 --> #4000

Then we compounded with the RUPES Zephir Gloss Compound.

Both headlights were sealed using Optimum Polymer Technologies Headlight Coating.


http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler..._Class_232.JPG




One year later

Here's how the headlights have held up at the one year mark. This car is always parked outside and the front of the car is hit daily by water sprinklers.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...Buffing_01.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...Buffing_02.JPG

http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...Buffing_03.JPG




Both sides looked great after the different headlight correction approaches were used. BUT - the side that was machine sanded and then compounded still looks great after one-year.


The lesson?

Well my take-away is, when headlights are neglected to the point where they have yellowed and oxidized from years of neglect - the BEST way to restore them for the longest lasting results is to MACHINE SAND to remove ALL the dead, oxidized plastic. This approach reveals or uncovers a fresh BASE of plastic and from the pictures you see above - the results simply last longer.


If you want Mirka 3" Sanding Discs - better get them while they are still available on the AG store. I keep hearing they're going away.


MIRKA Abralon Sanding Discs


And you want and need some interface pads for this type of work.

MIRKA Interface Pads






:)

Good follow up. I just went out and purchased a bunch of 1000, 3000 and 5000 grit Trizak 3" foam backed discs as that's what I've found works best but then in honesty, I didn't know AG had alternatives. Stuck with what I know works and those are grades I use. I use a heavy scratch removing and fine scratch removing set of polishes that aren't sold here but I'm sure many different products work well.

I have used and had GREAT luck with Meg's Headlight Coating. Not sure if it's sold here but a can does 2 coats on 4 lights for about $9 or so and have had customers over 1 yr later say they still look perfect. Here are couple I've done just recently.


https://pbase.com/timothylauro/image...7/original.jpg

https://pbase.com/timothylauro/image...8/original.jpg

https://pbase.com/timothylauro/image...8/original.jpg

https://pbase.com/timothylauro/image...0/original.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TTQ B4U

Good follow up.

I just went out and purchased a bunch of 1000, 3000 and 5000 grit Trizak 3" foam backed discs as that's what I've found works best

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The Trizact are great for car paint because they are super high quality.

The Mirka Abralon discs are more like taking a chainsaw to the headlights. Much more aggressive.

And with the thicker foam backing - they conform to curves better. Heck, you don't even need and interface pad with them. Last longer too.

Also - a lot more affordable than 3M Trizact.


:)

great article.

Nice to see how they held up in a year's time!

Excellent info here!

Mike thanks for sharing, excellent info, very unique and useful.

And just to add....

This wasn't really about "how-to" buff out or correct oxidized headlights... it was about how doing the EXTRA step of sanding creates results that last longer contrast to just buffing - no sanding.


:)

From talking to several folks that make coating for headlights at MTE and Detail Fest, if you don't plan to sand then don't plan to coat. Sanding the headlights will remove the factory coating, where just polishing will not. The coating needs to 'bond' to the plastic to work its best - as proved by Mike's test mule.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mc2hill

From talking to several folks that make coating for headlights at MTE and Detail Fest, if you don't plan to sand then don't plan to coat.

Sanding the headlights will remove the factory coating, where just polishing will not.

The coating needs to 'bond' to the plastic to work its best - as proved by Mike's test mule.

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That is accurate.

What I teach in my classes, is IF the headlight has an OEM coating, (some headlights do some don't), but once it starts to fail then you MUST sand 100% of the OEM coating off the headlight to do the job right.



:)