Looking for guidance on Audi paint correction.

The wife just picked up a low mileage used Audi Q5, I plan to do a correction and coat it with cquarts uk 3.0. Typically I’d do a test panel with a couple different pads and such but my DA crapped out on me and I’m picking up a new flex xce. Seems like it’s recommended not to use standard pads on them and use a pad that’s meant for forced rotation. So before I go order a boat load of pads for this machine, I’m wondering how Audi paint/clear is typically and what pads I should be looking at?

Normally I’d do a cutting stage with microfiber and Sonax cut max, possibly m100 if it’s real bad and finish with a rupes yellow pad and sonax perfect finish. Seems to have worked well on my other cars but it’s all domestic stuff and a bit older.

I can't recommend pad choice due to no experience with your choice of polisher. However, I can say the Audi and VW family of vehicles tend to have rather hard paint. With my humble DA polisher I typically use a light compound or medium cut polish/swirl remover and a medium cut pad. This allows me to remove light/medium swirls and finish out LSP-ready in one step.

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Originally Posted by Lt1ssteve

my DA crapped out on me and I’m picking up a new flex xce.

Seems like it’s recommended not to use standard pads on them and use a pad that’s meant for forced rotation.

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There are FLEX polishers that have the letters XCE in the part number.


FLEX XCE 10-8 125 Corded Polisher $435.99 - This is the new version of the original FLEX XC 3401 VRG aka The BEAST.

FLEX XCE 8-125 18.0 Polisher Set - $579.00 - This is the cordless version in kit form with the battery charger and two 5amp batteries


If you are getting the CORDED version, it comes with a 5" backing plate but in my opinion and experience, it is easier to control with a 6" backing plate and full size pads. With a larger footprint, (larger pad), you can also work faster as you can work larger areas and level more paint when buffing as compared to any other polisher using smaller pad.


If you're getting the CORDLESS version, it also comes with a 5" backing plate but in my experience, you'll get better battery life and correction using 5.5" pads.


I'm happy to try to help you but can you clarify which XCE you're getting?




:)

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Originally Posted by Desertnate

However, I can say the Audi and VW family of vehicles tend to have rather hard paint.

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I would agree with one exception. Generally speaking, any Audi I've worked on had hard paint. In fact, some of the hardest paints I've worked on have been on Audi's. I would even go as far as to say I would TEST the paint on an Audi car before committing to do any paint correction on one if the money wasn't right.


That said, here's 2 Audi's that are the exception to the rule. I helped the owners to dial-in a process to do paint correction on these two cars because the "problem" was the paint was SO SOFT.



Audi Soft Paint - Making Generalizations about Hardness and Softness

http://archive.meguiarsonline.com/ga...ivePaint02.jpg



I did the work on these two Audi's in 2006 - that's 14 years ago as I type. And wrote the above article in 2011, 9 years ago as I type. Half my work on the forum is simply remembering where stuff is at.



:)

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Originally Posted by Mike Phillips

I'm happy to try to help you but can you clarify which XCE you're getting?

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Then the other shoe drops....

After replying to this thread I found your other thread,

Anyone have experience with the new corded XCE compared to the 3401?


You're asking about the CORDED version.


Awesome tool. If you look at a lot of my write-ups, you'll see I'm using this tool. I've used it enough to know the characteristics for using it with the 5" backing plate versus the 6" backing plate. And from this experience, in an effort to help others, I wrote this article.


Supa BEAST backing plate swap


And just to comment,

Talking about tools by their part numbers is a joke. I've shared my thoughts on this with most tool manufactures that we sell. Some get it. Some don't.

For example, when Makita launched their gear-driven polisher they did NOT give it a catchy name. It is referred to by it's part number and nobody is ever going to talk, speak or type out the part number.

PO5000C

The tool has in my opinion, also never "caught on". It has it's fans, but not like the BEAST has it's fans.


So here's the nicknames for the FLEX tools,


FLEX 3401 - the original - The BEAST - and the BEAST is spelled with all capital letters. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.

FLEX XCE CORDED - The Supa BEAST - Supa is short for super and only the first letter is capitalized. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.

FLEX XCE CORDLESS - The CBEAST - All capital letters and the letter C before the word BEAST simply stands for cordless. This is a 8mm gear-driven fixed orbit orbital polisher.

FLEX XFE7-15 - The FINISHER - The FINISHER is spelled using all capital letters -this is a 15mm FREE SPINNING random orbital polisher

FLEX XFE15 - This is - The CORDLESS FINISHER. This is the cordless version of the corded FINISHER. At this time I'm not aware of any nicknames for this tool Like the corded FINISHER, this is a 15mm FREE SPINNING random orbital polisher.

FLEX PXE 80 - Is called The PiXiE - Basically you're running the letters PXE together when you say it and it comes out Pixie, which in mythology is a small fairy, or in this case a small tool. Chris Metcalf came up with the idea to type the part numbers in all capitals and the two letters i in lower case like this, PiXiE. I respect Chris and his twist on this nickname and that's why you see me type it out this way. I coined the term pixie, Chris came up with the spelling. In the new FLEX catalog FLEX called it the "Game Changer" for a nickname but that name has not caught on while the nickname pixie has caught on.

FLEX PE14-2-150 - This is simply - The PE14 - I am not aware of any nicknames for this tool but I would say that the part number, PE14 is the normal and accepted nickname for the full part number PE14-2-150, which no one is ever going to say or type to refer to this tool.

FLEX PE-150 - This is the cordless version of the PE14 and I am not aware of any nickname for this tool except to say - The cordless version of the PE14


Clear as mud?



:buffing:

From the FWIW files.....

Here's a recent car detailing project where I found the GM Corvette paint, (factory, no repainted), to be on the hard side. This car only had light or shallow swirls and scratches. The owner wanted a show car finish as in perfection. I used the Supa BEAST and after the work was over, I shared some pictures to show what I used and specifically how many pads I used.


Review: 3D Paint Coating and 3D One Cutting Compound and Finishing Polish


http://www.autogeekonline.net/galler...oating_001.JPG


LOTS of info in the above write-up.


:)

That looks awesome Mike.